Yes you can remove them in situ. I did some a few weeks ago. I made a special tool to compress the valve spring. (I used to replace them at the track on an earlier race car). You take the piston to compression TDC - or any where if you have the cam disconnected. Lock it in place (TDC helps), you compress the cylinder to around 100 psi (I use my leak down tool). Then you lock the valve spring tool in place (screws on to a stud) and lever on the spring. You will be surprised how easy it is. It helps to give the valve keeper a whack with a socket first - breaks the seat between the collets and keeper.
I can post a pic of my valve tool set up on a valve if you want (home made - like most of my special tools). I have an engine apart at the moment.
regards
Alan

Valve spring removal........
 

Steve,

Thanks for the information. I am looking to buy a P7E and P7I tools for the test. Thanks.

Tony

Picture of special tool....
 

Alan,

Could you post a couple pictures of your valve spring tool? Appreciate taking time to help 911 enthusiast. BTW, where are located in NZ? Are you close to Auckland? I will be visiting your beautiful country in a couple of weeks. Thanks.

Tony

Tony,

The P7 tools are very compact and can be used with the engine installed (not that I would want to try that). Since you have the engine on a stand, access is much improved and other tools could be made to work. Sounds like Alan has a design.

Are you 100% positive that the cams are on the correct side? It almost seems like the rocker is pushing down and releasing at the wrong time, hence the rockers having excessive play in them at certain points in the rotation.

My tool was originally made for a non- P car. But with a small tweek, worked on the porsche. You can see the connection for an air hose in the spark plug hole too. Made that from a drilled out spark plug (and welded some galv tube to it).
I was trying/hoping to find some loose valve seals (to avoid a tear down). I was out of luck and the tear down is underway.
This tool needs the cam box removed to fit in there - but you could make something more compact - like I say - it was made for another engine. But it can be done.
I haven't seen the factory tool.
I am not in Akl - about 5-6 hrs drive sth.
You are not on a cruise boat by any chance? Another Pelican is due here in a few weeks on a cruise boat.
Good luck.
Alan http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455583281.jpg

Black 993,

I have rebuilt more than a dozen 911 engines and some of them are extensively used as track cars. Never had any major problem in the past until I started to work on this motor (14th motor, actually 13th to test run). I rebuilt the motors and test run them before the owner/s come and pick them up. Year 2015 was a very memorable time for me because I had undergone two eye surgeries, discovered to have an irregular heart, spent 2 months in Asia and Australia, 3 weeks cruising the British Isles, 4 weeks in Monterey, CA for the Rennsport Re-Union, etc. Pretty good achievement for someone who does not know what he's doing.

CIS troubleshooting is my bread and butter. You simply did not comprehend or misunderstood the post. The FP was fine with the old engine harness but has problem with the newly made wire harness built by Timmy2. Explained to the wire fabricator that there was a problem with the new harnes that has to be corrected. If I didn't know anything about CIS FP operation, how do you think you could convince the fabricator about his defective product?

The fact that I could make the newly rebuild engines run in my test stand and a pretty decent CIS troubleshooter is some achievement for someone who does know what he is doing. How about you, how many engines have you rebuilt? Any technical contributions to the community? Keep us posted. Thank you.

Tony

Yeah, I wouldn't sweat the comments, but I too questioned what you meant by the rocker moved with the lobe.

Figured you simply worded it funky.

You'll get this one, it is just becoming a PITA to reach root cause.

Cam tower installed during removal......
 

Alan,

You have the cam tower installed as shown in the picture. I will probably order the P7E and P7I Sir Tools very soon. My wife and I are on a Cruise from Auckland, NZ to Sydney, AUS. After the cruise, I will stay in Sydney for several weeks and come back home by the end of April. Wife stays behind until end of May. So I have the whole house for me.

My wife allowed me bring the motor inside our house but was not able to bring the motor down to the basement because the ramps I use for bringing the motor down to the basement were under two feet of snow last month. So it got stranded in the kitchen. I promised to get the motor out before Super Bowl but with problem I have now, I was given an extension date. Notice what's on TV screen. Forget it. You guys play Rugby instead.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455589779.jpg

Do you or your buddies need some parts I could hand carry to NZ? I am not bringing my golf clubs so I have plenty of luggage space to spare. PM me.

Tony

Tony,

Black993 wasn't really helpful. No need to explain yourself. Every expert had to get past number 13. You are just having the joy of doing it publicly in the 21st century.

But the kernel of truth is you've put a lot of stress on yourself. Time to step back and digest the data. I think you'll solve the riddle.

Hi Tony - very kind offer to bring something, I just shipped a new P/C for my 930 - $200 freight. I keep Fedex in business. But right now, I am good. Enjoy your holiday.
The pic I posted I just mocked up with the tool so you could see how it all works. But the head on the tool is a bit big to fit down the cam tower. Only just - but I had to pull the towers to check for valve seals. But a small adjustment would make it do-able with cam tower on. That would be the way to go if you can make or beg/borrow a proper tool. It is quite easy to do. Fitting the collets back in may be a bit of a trick down that orifice, but if you can avoid tearing the motor down again, worth it.
I once stripped my M/cycle down in my bedroom - but I only had a girlfriend at that time, and the bike was more important if it came to an issue. She is my wife now, so she is well educated in this stuff.
Buy your wife something nice on the cruise and forget P engines while gone.
I hope I still have the ability and enthusiasm to get up each day and tear into a P motor at 73. I am also retired and spend half my time trying to make my track car go , and when it is going, trying to make it go better. At least I don't have to do it in the snow. I built a nice shed for my retirement.
All the best.
Alan

Heres' the P7x tool in use. It is pricey, but well made, quite compact and tailored for this application. The P71 and P7E are slightly different to account for differences in the intake and exhaust valve to stud geometry.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455630347.jpg

The plastic star wheel and allen wrench are not standard with the tool. It comes with a straight handle.

P7X valve tool.......
 

'78SC,

Does the P7X work for both intake and exhaust valve spring removall? Where did you source it? BTW, I have a '78SC too. Thanks for the post with the picture.

Tony

I think the P7 (x) means P7 (I) and P7 (E)
Alan

Thanks for the clarification, Alan. Sorry for any confusion.

Have you tried slackening the valves off yet - as suggested earlier?
Alan

Alan,

No. But I will be doing it later after I get home tonight. I am currently sitting by the ladies dressing room while my wife is shopping for dresses at Nordstom Rack in King Of Prussia Mall. This engine rebuilt is causing me a lot of downtime and $$$$. Some Good Samaritans are lending me these tools tomorrow.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1455658649.jpg

It will start investigating and removing the rocker arms, valve springs, etc. to check and test each valve. If you have any suggestion please let me know so I could incorporate it. Will keep you guys posted.

Tony

Don't let the valve spring split locks drop into the oil drain tubes. Plug the tube openings and have a magnet handy to capture the locks.

S

Good luck. That is good news some good soul is lending you the tools. Don't forget - you need to pressurise the cylinder you are working on. And lock the engine - you don't want it rotating with 100 psi behind the piston. Once your wife gets the new dress I would break the news you also need your compressor in the kitchen/w/shop - for a short while. You need the pressure to hold the valves shut while you push down on the spring. I find a sharp crack with a socket on the keeper before that helps it break free. But it may already break free since engine hasn't been running.
I would try slacking the valves off first - in case the issue becomes clear without having to pull the springs. Then maybe, if the issue isn't obvious then, try adjusting just one set of valves and see what happens.
Regards
Alan

You just saved me from another debacle.....
 

Sherwood,

With all the things going in my rebuild, I got to be aware of the things that could go wrong. This is what I have listed on my reminder list; magnet pick-up tool, tweezer, leak down tester, piston @ top position during removal of valve spring, nut & washer, 13-mm wrench for mounting P7E/I tools, a piece of plastic tube for pushing/pulling the valves up & down, install spring back before going to another cylinder, etc. What else?

Now, I have to add about plugging the return oil tubes that skipped my mind. Do you approve if I apply some lubricant to the valve stem and valve guide? I am planning to have some sort of plastic tube to hold the valve close or in place so I could move from one cylinder to another without installing the springs during my investigation. Do you think this is a prudent course of action. Any comment, remarks, suggestion from you or anyone is welcome. Thanks.

Tony