'68 T upgrade to 2.0 or 2.2 S advice needed
 

I am planning a recondition of my 1968 911T (Euro) coupe and a full rebuild of the matching engine. The car has been garage stored 25 years. I will use a very experienced tech who has, however, limited experience with rebuilding 911 engines, so we will need some expert guidance. I have Wayne's latest "How to rebuild, etc" book for reference. The engine has a set of '67 911S heads, pistons & cylinders, with the original T cam and non counterbalanced crank. I'd like a fun road/DE car and don't intend to race.

I'm concerned an S cam will make the car too peaky for my intended use, but perhaps an E cam won't work well with the larger ports of the S heads. Custom grind needed?

I have a set of worn 2.2S pistons and cylinders and think I could have the cylinders reconditioned, the heads worked to match, a new set of pistons and again, the cam decision. Is this a good idea? Not sure this type cylinders are ok to bore.

Funds are limited so I'm not going for the ideal, just the best solution I can afford. Thanks for your help.

Use the Solex grind cams. They are between E and S grind and no peaks like the S cams.
Bruce

If you search around this forum you will find lots of examples of engine builds. Wayne's book will answer most of your questions.

Your cylinders can be bored to match over sized pistons. A solex or E cam is probably best. Make sure your carbs match.

upgrade
 

Start your rebuild correctly and replace the 911T crank with a counterbalanced one.Sell the 67S heads & buy 2.2 heads & use the E cam with the smaller T or E ports for he best driveability.If the 2.2S pistons are equal spec. have the cylinders plated with Nicasil to match the skirt clearance and enjoy.Fred

Non-counter weight crank is lighter, so it revs quicker, worked for years on my 2.5 hot rod, unless you plan on rpms above 7500 they are fine. Early S heads are 36 intake 35 exhaust I believe and will be fine if you get 36 mm pmo intake manifolds or get early S 35 mm carbed manifolds. I agree E or solex cams are better than S for your intended purpose. Is your case aluminum or mag? alum has more strength. 9.5 cr seems to be max unless twin plugged. 2.2, 9.5 cr, solex, 40 webers, early or ssi exhaust, S head should be 180 to 190 reliable fun hp. best

Do you have the crank out? I have heard that the earliest '68T Aluminum Case engines had the c/b crank. The Casting Numbers below 12000 are these Aluminum Cases with the c/b Crank. Good luck with you build.

Thanks for the help, guys. This is the 36th '68 T, built about 10/67 with Chassis # 11820036 - Engine# 2080014. Aluminum case. For now, with $$ in mind I think I'll go with the 2.0S P&C set, a cam regrind to Solex specs, and a full rebuild with all the updates desirable. I had a '69S years ago and remember no problem with how it drove (MFI benefit?). I can always go to the 2.2 P&C set later if I want more thrust. The case is not yet apart - interesting that we may find the c/b crank.

I'd be interested to know if you find that c/b crank in there. Mine is just a couple of months after yours. In Jan '68 the mag case started. I haven't cracked my open yet to find out.... but from my inquires on this Forum, and the generous information from the experts here, you should have a c/b lower end. I am hoping I will find the same. It sounds like your going with about the same build I am planning. What P&C combination will you use? for the cam regrind, can you re-do your T Heads with new Valves sizes, and keep the cams, (with a regrind)?

Thanks......Good Luck.

If your looking for more oomph, and you are thinking of changing the crank, you could use a 70.4 mm crank and rods for a 2.1 longstroke. Watched a few of these just eat short strokes coming out of corners...

A few on this board toyed with having the non counter weight crank reground to take the long stroke rods. Light weight, fast spin up and you get the extra grunt from the longer stroke with extra compression.

Responding to the last two posts - I'm using late 1967 2.0 S heads and pistons. I'd love to get exotic with the rebuild but inexperience and a limit on cash (gotta do the chassis too) mean I'm going for good enough for now. I will use the car for a while, then decide if I'll keep it as is, improve it if I'm really in love with it, or sell. I'm not a racer, just an enthusiast with too many projects. Thanks for the advice!
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Is 2.2 the most you can go with a 2.0 engine? I also have a 68 and was wondering how far can you go with these.

I vote for the '67s heads . Buy 80.5 mm S pistons from Wossner and have the cylinders bored and honed by Ollies E & R to match the pistons . About $1,500.00 total . You need an S distributor and the engine will run well , absolutely not too peaky . I built an engine like this , runs great , better than my friends '67 normal with 2.2 P's & C's and S cams but normal cylinder heads .

You can go completely stupid if you like. My 7 year project is a true RSR crank, custom Ti rods from crowler, heads done by *sheesh* been so long I can’t remember...but they have a cut down RSR intake on ovoid ports done by CNC. All the meat came out of the roof to improve the flow from turning direction. The old style RSR pistons, CR is like 11.6:1. Cams are 3.8 RSR on 101* Lobe centers cut from some GE100s. Less lift than the GEs, but more area under the curve than the sprint cams. Tightened up the LC to work with the 2.8L size. RSR rockers.
Still working on induction. Most likely going to end up using stock TBs rebuilt to as big as possible. Going to use the direct injectors in the stock location and hopefully end up on liquid propane. The DI injectors are ramped to several hundred psi and should easily deal with 200 psi to keep propane liquid in a warm engine bay.
Or going to use an early Mercedes in-line 6 MFI pump recalibrated to RSR spec.
Lots of time and money. But I think that is about as built as you can get a 2.8. Might get to 2.9 with the guys that make the aluminum cylinders. Forget their name as well.

Project abandoned
 

Thanks for all the advice guys. I underwent a major surgery for cancer in April and can no longer drive. Also, previously I had Thoroughbred Motorsports in Corry, PA, restore the very surprising rusty chassis on their Celite jig, and the total cost wiped out my restoration budget. I'll be offering the entire project on Bring a Trailer as soon as I can get the various bits organized and photographed. Karl Hens at Thoroughbred claims the chassis is now as straight, in spec, and equal to a new car. If anyone is interested, please contact me directly at Autolinc@gmail.com.

Regards,
George Leopard