Case trough bolt incorrect torque
 

Ok so this is more like a noob fail.

I am rebuilding an 1975 2.7 911s engine with a friend. Today, we put the sealant on (loctite 574) and assemble the two cases halves. After, we torqued all the 13/14 case trought bolt and we tried to rotate the crankshaft but we were not able to move it of an inch. So we thought that the torque applied on the case trough bolt were incorrect. We untorque them all and were finally able to move the crank again.

So now that we know that our torque wrench is out of the equation. We tried to torque them manually to get a good result.

Monday I will go get a new digital torque.

But for the moment my question is: Will it be good if i applied the correct torque 2 day after the sealant will be dry ? Or i need too teardown everything and redo it again.

My goal is to get a leak free engine.

Your case has a warp as so many of the mag case have.
Torque is 25 #ft. Take the through bolts up in torque from 15#ft and with each web turn the crank. This will show you that the case has a warp.
Bruce

Ok good and if I keep my all around case nut I will not have to replace the sealant right ?

Line bore incorrect or bearings not in spec.

I don't think you understand. You need to deal with the case problem. Forget assembling it for the moment.

JR

what their trying to tell you is that your case probably needs to be machined due to warpage. Take it apart and take it to a machine shop that knows Porsche engines. You cannot assemble a 2.7 (magnesium case) without having it measured for warpage. Also might want to forget the 574 on the case halves and use threebond. Don't skimp or hurry your assembly it will bite you in the end.

ok good for the machine shop warpage.

Whats the difference between 574 and threebond? And wich one of threebond you recommend ?

3 bond has better fill on the seams.
Be sure you read the instructions on the 3 bond
Bruce