Part Trois: 3.4L Build, The Journey

[DRACO A5OG]

Thanks Fellas :-)

Update: Gear Box mated to Engine, Installing this Friday Afternoon




...and just in time to return Gilles' Engine Stand and Yoke, Merci Beaucoup!

Master KTL, Yours is on it way too, I have not forgotten sir



Next, Install, Easy Peasy, this is only my 7th time

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh Yeah, no left over Bolts and/or Nuts
Sandwich Baggies and Sharpie is your best friend Also taking the time to leave bolts where they belong, yeah extra time but Heck, they all went in the correct places, WOoHoO

[Cairo94507]

Very cool. Can't wait to see and hear the start-up video. Looks very nice.

[KTL]

Rock on. Startup and break-in will be a piece of cake.

[Tippy]

Congrats! BTDT, doing it again though currently....

[A horse with no name]

Great!..Good on ya mate!!. Like "let the good times roll" eh !

[DRACO A5OG]

Break in #1-2

Filled with 30 Weight Rotella

Hand Cranked and Starter Cranked, ALL GOOD



Too late to start in my Darn HOA :-(

Will start and 20 minute at 2000 RPMs, Dump Oil, change filter and prepare for break in drive for 50 Miles.


I think I earned this

[356RS]

You definitely earned that brew. Job well done.

[DRACO A5OG]

20 Minute Break In.

SUCCESS!





I goofed, forgot to set up zip tie on throttle to keep her at 2000 RPMs that is why video split and I can not figure out how to merge the three videos but I think you can see what I was doing.

The last video is te last 2 minutes, NO LEAKS, NO CRAZY NOISES, only Valve Noise but that was on purpose, left them a bit loose just in case pistons want to smack them

DRUCK right on target
Temp raised properly

Absolutely NO SMOKING, was kinda surprised about this, was expecting allot more

Little to no shavings on magnets ( on 2 oil changes )




I did notice sparkly stuff in the dirty oil but I assume it was the rings bedding into the cylinder walls as planned.

2nd oil change was less after my 50 miles Break In Drive. Accell and Decel hard upto redline, no lugging and nothing under 2000 RPM's. People hated me on the freeway, 30MPH to 90MPH

25 Miles to SW CHIP to pick up 3.4L Chip THANKS STEVE WONG!

SWChips.com - Products
SMOOOOOOTTTHHHHHHHH Idle

[Simon_R]

Congratulations -- I've been following with great interest, as no doubt have many other lurkers. Job well done. I'm having a beer in your honour!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[billybek]

Very nice!
Was wondering how the startup went.

Always a "Big Pucker" moment when you spin a fresh overhaul for the first time.

[Cairo94507]

Excellent work. Sounds sweet. Congratulations - you deserve another beer.

[DRACO A5OG]

Oh Thank You Fellas,

All the credit goes to you all you for your continued contribution, moral support and guidance. I could not have done it without this great brotherhood of exceptional gentlemen.

Again, my humble gratitue to you all!

[0396]

Congrats, now go to Willow Springs and turn an leisurely 1:32 on big Willow to break it all in.

[DRACO A5OG]

I wish but I don't want to break anything prematurely

[DRACO A5OG]

Post 50 Mile Check, YOU MUST CHECK ALL THE NUTS:

All went well until I check the torque on the fasteners. Specifically #6 bottom left corner Head Stud ( Yes, only ONE ) it pulled :-(. I tried to torque it but it just spun and started to pull the stud out. NOT GOOD.

So I will attempt to extract the stud in situ with red loctite over night using the old OEM barrel nut, assess the damage and if okay will use red loctite to insert the ARP studs by cutting a slot for a screw driver to seat in the stud. I KNOW HALF arse measure but if that does not work I will need to drop and TIME Cert the case.

Eh no biggy, will remove cylinder with pistons still in place.

I was told by an wise old PELICAN that I can use new 574 to disolve/soften up the old 574 for the cam housing. :-) Going to test that if I strip down the p-side

[Trackrash]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Post 50 Mile Check, YOU MUST CHECK ALL THE NUTS:

All went well until I check the torque on the fasteners. Specifically #6 bottom left corner Head Stud ( Yes, only ONE ) it pulled :-(. I tried to torque it but it just spun and started to pull the stud out. NOT GOOD.

So I will attempt to extract the stud in situ with red loctite over night using the old OEM barrel nut, assess the damage and if okay will use red loctite to insert the ARP studs by cutting a slot for a screw driver to seat in the stud. I KNOW HALF arse measure but if that does not work I will need to drop and TIME Cert the case.

Eh no biggy, will remove cylinder with pistons still in place.

I was told by an wise old PELICAN that I can use new 574 to disolve/soften up the old 574 for the cam housing. :-) Going to test that if I strip down the p-side

That is some bad luck. Hard to believe one of your studs pulled, bummer.

You can keep the heads on the cam housing and leave the cams in place. No need to remove rockers or remove heads from the cam housing as they can be removed as a unit.

[DRACO A5OG]

Yeah, I was thinking of using loctite, should have went with my gut

Oh well, good news, more hps

That is the plan to keep them on and get new gasket and piece the p-side seals, oh the joy :-)

Wow pulled engine in 2 hours, getting faster every time

[boosted79]

Damn, that sucks. Don't hear of that too often on AL cases. What did you torque the heads to? Have you had your torque wrench calibration checked recently?

[DRACO A5OG]

I think it was the stud I removed. I may have stripped the hole upon removal.
I torqued the to 19 then 38 ft lbs per ARP specs.

Yeap, they were calibrated using a stretch gauge on the rod bolts, right on the money.