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Fitting fiber glass engine tin (front and back) questions
Getting my engine tin fit finally, and Ive realized the side pieces to not mate up to the front tin at all. I look at the other tins online or in the metal ones I have here at the shop and it looks like the front piece should side under the side.
My pieces are the same diameter where they should slide, so Im thinking I need to shave off chunks of the sides or front. The fitment into the rubber pieces in the engine bay has me worried tho. Here are several shots of what Im working with. Another question, do I need to block off this back portion, since I do not have a cooler on the engine, the 965 oil console does most of the blocking, but there will still be amit escaping as seen in the photo. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489962963.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489962963.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1489962963.jpg |
Engine width depends on machine work and other mods performed on the engine (line boring, spigot truing, cyl. height matching, headwork, etc.). Those machining operations will affect the engine width and alignment of the side pieces to the front and rear "sheet metal" (timing chain slack as well). Try adding spacers/washers between the FG side panels and their attachment to each cam housing. Add u-shape welting to fill in the air gaps created by your spacing strategy.
Yes. Direct heated engine air downward so it can be directed away from adjacent oil lines, etc. Cooling air will also take the path of least resistance instead of being forced past the cylinder head and cylinder cooling fins, so I would try to eliminate that and any other opening that bypasses the air cooling paths. I believe there's a female thread hidden under the edge of the FG air shroud (above left of forward upper oil cooler mounting bolt) that could be used to attach a fabricated or factory cover piece. Sherwood |
Hey that wiring harness looks familiar!
Want me to make you a clear/yellow matching weird shaped rubber grommet piece where the wires to the starter and reverse switch go through the engine tin? Likely blend right in with your fiberglass tin. You know how to reach me. :) |
I don't have a good answer for you- but that fiberglass is damn sexy
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So I ended up cutting pieces of the gutters on either the side or front pieces. Had to carve away some bits that were touching the case too.
Now I think it will sit nice and flush with the new rubber seal in the engine bay! I will still need to block off the area near the filter console. Check it out.. any concerns? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490154763.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490154763.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1490154763.jpg |
Damn that is sexy.... :)
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There's also a threaded hole on the end of your camshaft/rocker housing, just above the camshaft bore "freeze plug." Those are the holes for the power steering pump mounting since you have 964 style cam housings.
Yep the fiberglass shrouding often takes a little bit of massaging to make it work for you. The rearward piece along the engine mount crossbar always seems to be a bit twisted. Agree with the other guys, that engine looks really really good. Nice job! What type of hose is that black hose you're using for the cam housing oil supply lines? And don't forget to tighten that loose jet nut for the intake manifold shown in picture number 2! ;) |
Thanks, it's been so many months that's it's been sitting here. Really hope I can finish all this up before the 4/23 meet up in Seattle!!
It's some nylon an-4 hose I made myself. Here is a bit of the research that was done http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/906799-custom-cam-lines.html Just realized I need to update that thread with my lines that are complete! I wanted to try and find the two block off pieces for the oil filter console that were used on this RSR motor (not my motor). http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1347672747.jpg |
Good progress
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