What head stud is this part# 993.101.172.02?
 

Are these the 993 steel studs?

Yes, they are the latest, steel, fully threaded 993 studs.

That's what I was told when I ordered them, but thet are not threaded all the way down anymore apparently. Still came with the loctite already installed like the other ones.

They had the look of steel, not shiney like Dilavar, but not like "allthread" either...

THanks Bill.

The ones I bought from PMS aren't fully threaded either. They said that these were better than the fully threaded ones and are the ones recommended and used by the major motorsports builders. Sounded good to me.

I am at the point (finally) where I need to get head studs, and I need to make a decision. Wayne's book reccomends the standard early style steel studs, but I have heard from others about using the steel 993 studs.

What is the difference, and which is better?

If they are the same, why is the 993 version $2 each less?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom,

Can't tell you the difference, but to Bill's point, they seem to be the the latest Porsche motorsport recommendation, outside perhaps the ARP or Raceware ones (which are like $500-$700 a set)

These are the options I know about, and the prices of a set of 24 (Pelican). Seems like the 993 version is a relative deal.

PEL-RTE-1022 Raceware Head Stud Set $499.95
901.101.172.03 Cylinder Head Stud-Early Steel $299.00
901.101.172.03 Cylinder Head Stud-911 2.7L $248.40
930.101.170.02 Cylinder Head Stud-Dilavar $505.10
992.101.170.51 Cylinder Head Stud-Micro-Encapsulated $603.90
993.101.172.02 Cylinder Head Stud-993 $203.52

The early steel ones are good, and I haven't heard any problems with the 993 ones, but remember, they are still very new. Dilivar problems didn't often occur until many years later.

-Wayne

How about 1976 steel studs that are slightly scared fron the stud removal tool? Are these still ok to use?

No, even a nick can do in a head stud.