How to clean the engine case?
 

I'm rebuilding my 3.0 and it's all torn down - after spending hours with a brush and solvent, I took the case halves down to my local machine shop to be 'hot tanked'.
I saw the halves yesterday, and while most of the grit,grime and oil, etc is gone....the case halves do not look great.
I've seen a number of pics on this board, of cases that look like they've been bead blasted (but Wayne said not to do that, because of the oil galleries, so I won't!)..... so, what methods you you pelican heads use to get the case "spotless"....?????

Thanks for your input!

I think some times the cases look better in the photos. Mine looked pretty shiney in the pictures, but the case was really a dull grey. FOr a cheap way of making it look good, check into the Por-15 paint. It has had many good reviews here.

I agree with Chris that photos make the case look better than it really is. But I would never paint it with anything. The important part is that it is very clean.

Lots of brake cleaner, wire brushes, and about 10 hours of your time, if you want to do it correctly...

-Wayne

When the wife is not around throw it in the dishwasher :D

Actually, I did do that to the cam towers, with Mrs. Z's permission.
They came out sparkling clean, but I can't say the same for the interior of the dishwasher.:(

I think the appearance of some of the "shiny" motors is due to the camera flash.

Some of the pictures i've taken and posted make my motor and trans. looking sparkling. It's really quite dull like Chris & Doug said.

I have had some luck in the past by going with an aluminum wheel cleaner such as eagle one for cast wheels (non clear coated) The mild acid in the cleaner will even things out, although it will not be shiny. The cleaner should brighten things up. I have done this on aluminum wheels prior to clearcoating. I guess you could also get out the metal polish, but that is alot of work. How about powder coating if you insist on doing the prep? Bolt the case back together and have a long talk with your favorite powder coater.

If you do use the dishwasher approach, just remember NOT to put it through the dry cycle. You want to air dry the cases, or the heat and moisture can cause corrosion of the Aluminum. Air dry only. Blow out passages, and dry the surface with your air hose after you take it out of the dishwasher.

I also spent a few hours with Castrol's cleaner (roughly purple colored Simple Green). This stuff works well, is less hard on your skin and lungs than brake cleaner, but it is also verrrry corrosive to Aluminum. Do NOT leave it on the metal. Wipe it down with warm water or rinse it off after scrubbing a bit.

Larry

The best way to have parts such as cam towers, cases or pistons cleaned is ultrasound.
Places that will do this on a "retail" basis can be a little hard to find, but I was successful after a few phone calls.
Parts come back spotlessly clean and undamaged.
Cheers,
Michel Richard

Don't put it in the dishwasher, unless you want to damage and permanently contaminate your dishwasher. This is very silly, as the slick and particles and stuff from your engine will be stuck forever in your dishwasher - and subsequently will contaminate your dishes for many months to come.

Not worth it. Buy a used dishwasher ($50) or simply have your parts washed at the machine shop where they have industrial washers, and it will probably cost you about $40.

-Wayne

Much Thanks for the input
 

Thanks guys... I'll elect to NOT destroy the dishwasher...that would not go over well with the "management" here!
I will have to go after the solvent/brushes/airhose routine (with safety glasses!)and just start the scrubbing.

I will say that the machine shop got most (90%) of the grime and junk off of the case...I guess I was expecting more.

pick up some stuff at Costco called "Oil Eater". It's cheap and worked great cleaning up a non-porsche aluminum engine (in combination with the aforementioned elbow-grease) max

Ive brought parts, case halves, cam towers, tranny cases, to a local independant transmission shop,. And worked out a deal with the owner.

The tranny shop has a giant industrial sized washing machine that they use to clean tranny components.

Even so when I get the de-gooed parts home I go over them with carb cleaner etc to clean all the passages.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...TakesABath.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...akesABath2.jpg

You and I are on the same page Chris.

I too have one of those Rubbermaid-like tubs I use for parts washing. Not nearly as squeaky clean as yours after using it to rid the car of years & years of grime.

Must be the rubber ducky keeping it so clean.

I cannot stress how important the cleaning process is - it is the key to a leak-free motor. Just having your case cleaned by a shop is not enough. It's a good starting point, but then you really need to get in there with a brush and some carb cleaner...

-Wayne

Another option is to take your case to a "speed shop" like the kind that work on big block chevy's and have your case tanked. I opened up my case for our 102s and drilled and tapped all the galleys and just drove over to my local speed shop and for $15 my case came back looking like it was brand new.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance