2 oil leaks post rebuild help needed
 

Hi guys
have 2000 mi on full rebuilt and have 2 oil leaks, these are not my pictures

#1 there is slight leak at the seam , don't know where exactly , #2 studs are a little damp
3# a few drops on the inner part of the valve cover , when I did my first valve adjustment I checked the rocker shafts and they were dry< did not replace the gaskets or the washers from valve covers after valve adjustment>
thanks for any help or suggestions.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504059460.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504059460.jpg

I would say that you didn't keep the centerline sealant inside the bolt perimeter.
What sealant did you use? Some sealants need to be applied to each flange (Threebond) and some just need a line of sealant (574)
Bruce

I used Threebond

The problem I see here is that the parts that are leaking are basically impossible to fix at this stage because of where they are.

Why did you not use 574? I have used it continuously on many motors and never had a problem.

Funny, some people use 574 others swear by three bond. I myself would use threebond due to the many builders on here that say it's better than 574. I think it comes down to prep, condition of case and who assembled it. Nothing you can do except remove engine tear it down and seal it again.

Threebond or Honda bond works great pretty much anywhere...

Using it on the case halves though, doesn't that risk strings of RTV floating around in the oiling system?

Must not be an issue, as I see lots of folks using it...

By "3", do you mean at the head/cylinder joint? No gasket there, just studs applying pressure...

As an aside... I would imagine 90% of these motors leak after a full rebuild within 2-3 years... Youre just ahead of the curve!

This is what happens when not following directions
 

This is what happens if you don't put threebond as directed, weather hondabond or yamabond, etc.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504127376.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1504127396.jpg

So what's the secret of putting on enough, but not getting it in the case?

I use very little whenever I use it, and don't apply to the inner 3rd of the seam in most areas...

Inner third, thats why the studs are leaking..
Bruce

As I said earlier, used loctite 574 and never, ever had an issue. of course, the motors have leaked from other spots, because it seems like a Porsche motor will want to leak a bit from at least somewhere, but never had a 574 leak.

I'd stick to the products that are recommended in the WSM, and I say that as an engine case builder and someone who knows a thing or two about cases.

Also I have spent a lot of time on the phone with Henkel, who owns Loctite and their scientists and people are top notch.

574 on case halves
 

For 3 leak i would check chain case o ring.

I see that you've used a solid bead around the perimeter case as opposed to brushing it on, that makes sense as you're assured that there's no part of the outer case which has been missed if there's an imperfection or a score on the case

Threebond 1184 is not the same as RTV and doesn't string like RTV.

I just realised what was unusual about the picture. I put the 574 on the right hand side of the case and lowered the left side on top of it. I suppose there are many ways to skin the proverbial feline.

Why not put it on thick? Its anaerobic sealant, right? So the "extra" doesn't harden?
Also, I see that there isn't any near the bearings, which I understand, as you don't want to foul a bearing. But then, aren't you risking a leak near the bearings?

How is it different? When you put access on a joint it squeezes out just like RTV. Isnt there a similar risk that this excess breaks off and floats around?

Curious...

I love hondabond...but seems risky?

It's tougher and doesn't tear as easily as RTV. If it was a problem then Honda and Yamaha wouldn't use it on their bike engines. They're split case just like these but in the horizontal plane for the most part vs. vertical plane on these. So these engines are much less forgiving of a poor job of sealing the seam. If some does break off the seam it gets stopped by scavenge pump suction screen, if any gets past the screen it gets chewed up by the pump and trapped by the filter before the oil returns to the tank. You want just enough to make a very small squeeze out.

574 that has not cured just kind of dissolves. It only cures in the absence of air, and that doesn't happen inside the open parts of the case.

It's not anything like RTV - not anything. That **** cures on whatever you stick it on, and eventually, right inside the product tube itself.

For me, 574 is non negotiable. Why go cheap on this stage. Use the correct product people.

For every guy that says "I used Yamabond and it was fine" there are a hundred guys who used 574 and never post because there are no problems.