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[QUOTE=bpu699;9730919]I did go back to the youtube video, to make absolutely sure I saw what I saw. The video is from TurboKraft, certainly a well known builder of uber expensive high power Porsche motors. The tech is explaining that they torque the ARP fasters in 3 stages. They didn't show any stretch gauge. They are building 600-900hp motors...
Also, with a stretch gauge, isn't the point to keep it on the bolt while tightening? No one ever does that, as everyone is using a torque wrench to put it on necessitating removal of the dial indicator... Everytime you remove the dial indicator, you introduce room for error... That said, being anal, I will probably still buy a new tool to measure bolt length... Another question... many assembly books recommend Loctite on the rod bolt to prevent it from coming loose... do folks on here do that???[/QUOTE Yes red loctite every time. Most people say it's not necessary but it's extra insurance. if for some reason during an over rev the bolt yields the loctite will keep the nut from spinning off and destroying the engine. As far as diassembly just put a socket and 3/8 breaker bar and they pop loose easily. I do the same with the crank to flywheel bolts. |
[QUOTE=Ken911;9739434]
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No loctite acts like thread lube until it dries. As for it drying before you are done I use it on one rod at a time. Put the bolts in slide it over the crank place the end cap on then a drop of loctite on the threads before spinning the nut on. Tighten to the correct amount of bolt stretch. Then move to the next rod.
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