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Chain tensioner housing cover: Gasket and sealant or only gasket?

When replacing the gasket on an the chain tensioner housing of a 3.2 engine do you only use the gasket or should some type of sealant be used on the mating surfaces in addition to the gasket? If sealant, what type should be used?

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Old 04-02-2018, 08:59 AM
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Tensioner cover

Anyone?
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:31 PM
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I use Curil-T on both sides of the gasket. Not sure if it's necessary but no leaks for me on several rebuilds.
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:56 PM
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Chain tensioner housing cover: Gasket and sealant or only gasket?

Mine had sealant on both sides and no leaks. I will copy that method on reassembly.

This is a good thread.

The Complete Engine Sealant Thread...
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=844&share_tid=284737&share_pid=2606548&url=https%3A%2F%2Fforums%2Epelicanparts%2Ecom%2Fsh owthread%2Ephp%3Fp%3D2606548&share_type=t


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Old 04-03-2018, 08:37 PM
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I've done them without sealant - no probs. But I use the thicker gaskets. If you had the paper type, I think I would use something. That will work, without sealant, as long as you have both surfaces really clean - I mean really clean, no warps and no previous leaks. Why not use a sealant? No real reason - except less clean up next time you pull the cover off.
Alan
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Old 04-03-2018, 10:48 PM
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My absolute favorite sealant for paper gaskets is Permatex Copper Spray-a-Gasket. Apply a couple of light coats to both sides and of course, to a clean and oil free surface and you are good to go. I also have used it on 915 transmission paper gaskets. It too, like my engine, is still dry 8 years later. And should you have to disassemble, it comes apart without drama and removing the Spray a Gasket is a breeze with acetone or the like.
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Old 04-04-2018, 03:08 AM
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Just the paper is fine. Curil T if you must. Not a leak prone area.
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K&W spray coppercoat for me.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:47 AM
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How do they come from the factory? It seems that they do not use sealer. Most of the gasket will pull away from either the cover or the housing, leaving an as machined surface. Some places do stick sometimes though, so I do not think it is correct to call them just paper gaskets. They seem to come treated with something. Why add more?
Old 04-04-2018, 08:15 AM
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Interesting. Many different ways. I have used locktite 574 on both sides of the paper gaskets. No leaks.

When installed dry, I had leaks.

My data suggests that 36 year old housings and covers need a little extra sealing help.
Old 04-04-2018, 03:58 PM
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Thinking more about the topic, it's also a good idea to check the flatness of the covers. I have a piece of 5/8" thick plate glass with 220 or finer emery sandpaper glued on. I use it to ensure the covers are flat by moving them back and forth on the plate to correct any warping. Before I started they certainly weren't flat but after 5 minutes or so of effort on my cheapo flatplate, they were in good order. The valve covers received the same treatment and no, they weren't flat either.
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Old 04-04-2018, 04:29 PM
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I do the low corners because that’s where the oil will pool when not running or on the right, always a pool.
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Old 04-05-2018, 04:03 AM
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