Rocker Arm location/Euro 3.2 Rebuild
 

Hi Gentleman-


Tearing down a Euro 3.2 with a couple broken head studs. Wanted a expert opinion on the necessity of re-istalling the rocker arms on the same cylinder/intake/exhaust location that they were removed from. I expect a fair amount of time before I re-install and wanted to keep them in oil due to the corrosive salt air on Kauai. Seems there are multiple opinions on this, currently they are laid out on a towel according to how they were removed. I labeled the heads with a punch to denote cylinder the number. I've begun packaging the heads for a re-fresh.

Debating on splitting the case, have documentation that is was a low mile motor but it sat in a shop for 6 years with the barrels off. Any thoughts on measuring the end play with access to the perfect tool? Also heard one can remove number 1 and 6 rod ends and access the bearings to determine the general heath of the bottom end. Difficult to find qualified machine shops that are familiar with 911's here on Kauai.


I'm novice mechanic but excited to have a no pressure learning experience getting this Euro 3.2 spinning again. 5 years ago I re-freshed the top end of my 3.0 SC with my friend Franz Chwojka, owner of Auto Select in Toronto, while he was visiting family here on the garden Isle. I've read Bruces book a few times and have nothing to loose given the price of entry on this 76 Slant nose conversion project.

FYI if any pelican wrenches are interested in no charge one bedroom vacation rental and surf truck on Kauai in exchange for assistance with my Porsche projects the offers out there :).



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Regards-

JS

Opinions on keeping the rockers arms in the exact same position? Needing to store the parts would like to put them in a jar of oil until re-assembly.

If it just a matter of keeping track of then zip tie them.

Intake - Cool - White (translucide) Zip Tie

Exhaust - Hot - Red Zip Tie

1 Zip Tie on numbers 1, 2 Zip Ties on number 2 and so on...

You will need 21 zip tie of each colors.

Thanks JJ-

Sure appreciate your time.


Nice system.

Any thoughts on measuring the end play.

Yes, keep them in order, unless you are changing cams. In that case, have them rebuilt with the follower surface trued up and polished.

If I could give an answer, I would be looking for a cheap flight your way and take advantage of that "no charge one bedroom vacation rental and surf truck on Kauai" offer :D:):D

With a collection of parts that dirty and sitting in storage for a long time, I think it would be foolish not to split the case. Plus the actual part cost of splitting the case is pretty minor in the overall job. Just some sealant, through-bolt o-rings, oil pump seals, a few other minor things like aluminum seal rings and finally a couple of crankshaft seals. Who knows what you'll find inside and better to find out now instead of later.

Not sure what you mean by end play. If you are talking about the crank, you could use a dial indicator or set up a block of some sort and use a feeler gauge.

The endplay on the crank is determined by the #1 main bearing.

It would be a good idea to check the rod bearings. Most mechanics will not split the case if they look good. This might be a good opportunity to swap out the rod bolts for ARPs.

And yes you want the rockers to re match the cam lobes they came from.

The good news is you probably won't need to do any machining, except if you are going to do a valve job.

Another thing, don't take the pistons out of the cylinders, leave them in and remove the P&Cs as a unit.

Keep the rockers matched with the lobe of the cam that they came from. If you swap them around it will still run correctly but may wear prematurely.

Packing my bags now!

FYI, splitting the case will pull a few grand out of your wallet. ARP rod bolts will set you back over $500, wrightwood gasket set another $500, head studs another $500, throw in another couple of hundred or so in sealers and misc bolts and stuff. Then you are in the "while you are in there" slippery slope. Might as well put new bearings in, drop a couple of hundred in rebuilding rods etc...

3.2 images
 

Hi-

Thanks for your valuable opinions :).

Only safe bet is to split the case given the unknowns. Guess it couldn't hurt at this juncture to pull a rod end and take a look at the condition of the bearings before.

Trackrash- Yes on the crank, there is a some play back and forth that I can feel by hand.



The studs were removed by the domestic mechanic and the pistons have already been removed from the cylinders, well there are resting in the correct barrel but have been out. Here are some images, still crosshatching, it would be nice to have your professional eyes on them. The 3.2 motor was the reason I acquired this project, the shop wanted it gone and would not even grant access for me run the numbers.
At home I ran the number and received a bonus of a 3.2 Euro . 930/20 11 fins MAHLE Cylinders

This will be a street motor, in terms of budget do I need ARP fasteners? It would be nice to use Supertec studs but wont the standard steel studs be fine for my application? I want to spend the money on a quality head refresh. Neal at Performance Developments was nice enough to share his time and discuss the importance of re-building the heads the right way.








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Mahle cylinders. Count your blessings. :p

You need someone with the proper tools to measure the cylinders. IF they are in spec you are half way there. The next step is to decide whether to re- use the rings. IMO, probably should replace the rings.

I would use steel studs. I bought a used set which I used to replace my broken divilars. Stock steel studs are fine for anything but a turbo or high output track motor.

If it was me, I would split the case. You have no known history, so why take a chance. End play shouldn't be more than about 0.008". Wear limit is about 0.011".

As far as rod bolts go, they should probably be replaced with new. On the 3,2s they are the weak link, so ARP is the way to go. Search around, I found they weren't much more expensive than the OE Porsche bolts for my 3,0.

Yes indeed.

What tools are need, machine shops are limited on Kauai.

Going with steel.

Yes splitting the case is the right way to go, just trying to work out the time money and the experience needed.

For measuring cylinders, a good set of micrometers, with someone who knows how to use them at a minimum is needed.

Most modern machine shops will have a bore gauge. Again, needs to be good quality with an experienced user.

The tolerance on these cylinders is quite tight. Any more than about 0.001" out of round or tapered and they are near the wear limit which is about 0.0015".

Hopefully you can find someone there to help.

For the rockers, save them in marked *freezer* bags. Freezer (not sandwich) bags are thicker and have a place to write on them.

Heck, save everything in labeled bags; even the nuts, washers, etc. until the build is over.
Those little baggies of labels fasteners are important "bread crumbs" for reassembly as they let you know what kind of washer went under that fastener, what kind of nut, etc.

In the absence of other information, the fact that the motor was disassembled makes me super suspicious of the condition.

I'll add my vote to the "split the case" chorus.

As far a machine work goes:
- You'll need the crank measured. Your local machinist can do that.
- You'll need the rods rebuilt. Again, not rocket science. If you go with ARP rod bolts remember to give them to the machinist. He'll need them.
- You'll need the heads rebuilt. Expect all the valves to need replacing and probably the exhaust valve springs. Send those out to some place that does 911 heads.

As far as *unusual* tools:
- You'll need an engine yoke. Porsche tool P201. This bolts to the motor and then slides into the engine stand. There are also adapters that bolt to the motor and then to the arms of and engine stand.
- The cam spocket tool. It's a kind of pin wrench. Porsche tool P237.
Both of these are pretty expensive for a one time use. See if you can find them used or borrow them.

A note of caution: These motors are "easy" if you are beginner and become progressively harder the more you learn.
Sort of like walking through a field. "Well, that wasn't hard, I wonder why people act like it's a big deal."
It's not until later you find out that the field is a *mine* field. :-)
Wayne (our host) wrote a motor building book and that is a good place to start.

Hope that helps.

Kauai! I was there for a couple of years...back in my Navy days. Good'ol Barking Sands, where I would surf 365 days a year in board shorts. It was rough.