Great build thread & great video. Best luck can't wait for pt 3.

This is awesome!!! Great thread and very educational. Looking forward to part 3!

Outstanding! Love the vids and detailed pics.

MattR

Cam housings and sprocket alignment
 

More work on the engine rebuild, cam housings, camshafts, timing chain housings and the sprocket alignment. I had a couple of issues, firstly I'm not very skilled with the crows foot wrench for the sprocket retaining nut. I really struggled to get it to 110ft-lbs multiple times without the wrench slipping off, so I ordered the Stomski racing cam nut tool. I also didn't realize the cam sprocket shims were 0.5mm and not the 0.25mm as described in Waynes book but all worked out and I'm ready to tackle the cam timing next. Wish me luck on that one!

I made a little video of the process.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/13oLH0NMCtg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Clean cam housings, cam shafts with the E-cam grind, oil return tubes, o-rings and all the hardware laid out on my clean tray.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

New oil return tubes installed, when I ordered them they were yellow zinc and when they arrived .... they weren't. I loosened the head stud nuts to give myself some wiggle room for the cam housings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Installed the cam housings dry, no Loctite 574 yet as I need to measure for the valve to head clearance. It all needs to come apart again.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Torqued the cam housing nuts first then the head stud nuts before trying the cam shafts in their housings, both spun freely (thank God!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Everything I need laid out on my clean tray, parts, gaskets, 0-rings and the tools to do the job.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Installed the timing chain housing with a dry gasket and the chain ramp with the short end facing in.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Installed the camshaft end plate with paper gasket and o-ring, large washer bevel side in and 3 shims. The woodruff key give me some grief even though I test fit it on the bench. Sprocket flange over the camshaft.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

I got confused about the thickness of the shims, the book says 0.25mm but they are 0.5mm. I started with 3, went to 4 and then went back to 3 on the right side!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Tightening the retaining nut to 110ft-lbs multiple times as I swapped the shims was very difficult with my novice skill levels using the crows foot wrench, I've ordered the Stomski Racing cam nut tool for the next step.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Measuring the sprocket alignment from my straight edge. The camera tripods were a set of helping hands and worked out great. The measurement on the left side was bang on with 3 shims, the right was close enough with 3 shims also.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542259671.JPG

Cheers!

-Kav.

Very nice! Thank you for taking the time to document your build.

dho

You will like the Stomski tool for tightening and loosening the cam nut ! Much easier to use.

On the nuts inside the timing boxes (holding the box to the case and the nut that holds the tensioner), I have been counseled to use standard nuts with wave washers as opposed to the fiberlock nuts. I noticed that the fiberlock was not getting well down over the threads, thus the question of their being effective. The answer was go back with wave washers and standard nuts.

I'm sure you will get differing opinions...

You can see the issue here..


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542381863.jpg


Changed over as described....


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1542381863.jpg

Great advice! Thanks! I will do the same and go back to regular nuts with wave washers!


Cheers!

-Kav.

I just wanted to thank you for making the effort of video taping your process.
I am sure it slows things down, and takes a lot of time to edit.
There are a lot of people out here who always wanted to get near an engine rebuild, but never got the chance.
For most of us, this is as close as we'll ever get.
Thanks.

Torque Adapter Wrench
 

What is the brand of the Torque Adapter that is shown in the video @ 8:23?

Great vids
 

Kav, thanks so much for taking the care and time to post your videos. Very professional and helpful. I hope to follow in your for steps one day with my non-driving ‘73 911T targa project! Look forward to seeing you behind the wheel of your beautiful 911 in 2019!

Your videos were a massive help in my build. The videos have been one step ahead of me the whole way along which has been awesome!
I've just caught up and am finalising cam timing and piston / head clearance checks.
Looking forward to your next update! :)

Cam Timing and Piston to Valve Clearance
 

This update is a long time in coming.

Unfortunately we lost our beloved Father Peter to lung cancer in January this year. He was diagnosed with stage four cancer while I was working in England over the summer of 2018. Needless to say the news was devastating and we spent as much time possible together over that summer. He wasn't a car guy but he loved following the progress of The Canary and probably contributed to most if not all of the YouTube views. I got the call to get on a plane and come home days after New Year and we lost him two weeks later. He was my true hero and someone I try to live up to everyday. Working on The Canary has been a great distraction but updating the posts and editing the videos is something I've found hard to get back to, so this is my attempt at that bridge.

Here we are at The Black Horse pub car barn together over that summer near my parents house.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557298440.jpg


Next task on the engine rebuild was probably the task I was most nervous about, timing the cams. Not sure why but it felt like a very difficult and complicated procedure. It turned out to be less complicated but more difficult / frustrating. I made a video about the experience.

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/KWtJNeqz1ZY" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Setting up for the Cam Timing. The clamps on the idler arms need to be extremely tight! I should of invested in some mechanical chain tensioners.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

Installing RSR rocker shaft seals to help prevent oil leaks from the cam housing.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

I installed the rockers for intakes 1 & 4 and set the valve clearance to be 0.1mm

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

The engine crank is at Z1, top dead center. I'm using some blue painters tape to help me easily see the Z1 mark against the case halves.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

Both left and right cams with the keyway / dot facing up as a starting point. I install the dowel pin the corresponding sprocket hole and tighten the 46mm nut to 110ft lbs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

I invested (I say that but it was only $25) in a digital dial indicator. I set it up with the Z block on intake #1.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

After much frustration I finally end up with the left side at the desired 3.15mm for my E cams.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

Right side is at 3.16mm

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1557299861.JPG

Once the timing was set I could depress the valves 1.5mm on the intake and 2mm on the exhaust and check my valve to piston clearance by rotating the engine 720 degrees slowly checking for any interference, all was good. After I was completely satisfied I tore the whole thing down ready to add my sealants and do this all again!

Cheers!

-Kav.

Kav, looks great!

Quick question, when you measured the cam alignment, looks like you used a straight edge against the case... I see other tools that align it against the intermediate shaft directly.

When you align against the case, how do you know the case is truly flat? The outside of the case isn't a machined surface. On my case for example, the two halves where they meet are clearly not flat at the joint as I can catch a fingernail on it...

Also, I have heard some folks say that the copper gasket between the case and cylinders are one time use. If you torque the head down, and then take it off, and put it back...do you now need new copper gaskets?

Bo

Kav,

That is heart wrenching news - I'm very sorry for your loss. My father was a car guy and taught me everything I know about turning wrenches. I lost him 12 years ago and truly miss working on things in the garage with him (even the arguments). I recently moved to an old farm with a shed that's at least 75 years old - the wood is all oil stained, and it just smells like an old shop. I know he would have loved it.

I was excited this morning when I fired up YouTube while getting ready for the day and saw that you had posted another video. My engine rebuild has been stalled for the past year as we packed up and moved, but as spring sets in here (and the risk of frost bite sorting parts in the shop has subsided), I have been getting back into organizing and cleaning parts, and putting together several big parts orders - the next installment of your progress is not only educational, but motivational. Thanks for getting back to posting updates. This, plus attending Luft this weekend, will be a big boost!

Cheers,
Keith

Well done getting the video out Kav .. top shelf as usual. Wondered what had happened as you were quite prodigious last year. I thoroughly enjoy them, very educational. I think I might have to invest in one of Stomskis good designs too ..

Sorry for you loss, I’m sure your Dad was a great bloke ..

Glad to see you're back. So sorry for your loss.

I just watched your video of the cam timing. Unless you did this for practice, you did a huge amount of un necessary work.


Piston to valve clearance checks. I think I have this written up on our web site about doing this.


This can be done when you first have the case bottom together. Fit up one cylinder with one piston and one head. No piston clips required at this stage. You will need a degree wheel fitted and before you fit the one head, TDC the degree wheel with your dial indictor directly on the piston.

Now fit the one head with the valves loose in the head. No springs. Hold the valves in place with a rubber band or similar. Don't worry about them falling , they will stop at the piston. Exactly what you are measuring.

Turn the engine until you have 20° BTDC. With the dial indicator on the tip of the valve, zero the indictor with the valve up against the valve seat. Now drop it slowly until it touches the piston. Record this number. Repeat this every 5 or 10° until you go past TDC and are at 20° ATDC. Do the same for the Exhaust valve. Now call your cam supplier and ask them for the valve lift at those same crank degrees at the timing you wish to use. They will know the Intake and Exhaust centerlines at the lift at TDC you may be wanting. They will also be able to tell you the valve lifts at those crank degrees. You subtract the numbers they tell you from what you measured and this is the clearance at each degree mark you used. If its too close, change the cam timing to suit or machine the pockets/change pistons.

This may seem long winded, but I promise you its far quicker than doing a full assembly, then taking it apart again. Once you have done the math on paper and established you have clearance, you build up the engine one time.

As for the cam timing way you did it, another way is to place the cams where the rocker is on the backside of the lobe, or I guess with the cams you are using, where the dots are up and down. Fit your rocker arm and do the lash as you did. Now turn the engine until you are approx. 90° BTDC. The more valve lift at TDC may require this position to be further from TDC. Put the pin into any hole and turn the cam until the dial indictor reads the lift you want. The engine wants to be BTDC. Pull the pin and slowly turn the engine until you are just before TDC. Find a hole close and insert the pin. Now turn the engine until you feel you have taken all of the play out of the pin in the hole. If you are not at TDC, try another hole. If you go past TDC, do the same but turn the engine back past TDC and then turn the engine clockwise making sure you take all of the chain slack out. This way, you are up against the pin in the hole and the cam is where you want it.

Another simple tip when turning the engine, use a long breaker bar. It makes the job a lot easier.

Hope this makes sense. Cam timing is the easiest part of building these engines and these engines have to be one of the easiest to time. Too much is made of this and has put unneeded fear into many. Just have to make the process easier and eliminate repeating, trying to get the number you want.

nh

Hey Bo.

I measured off the from of the case as it was nice and flat. You can get the Stomski racing SR008 sprocket alignment tool.

I didn't take the copper gaskets off again, just the cam housing.

Cheers.

-Kav

Thanks Keith. Good luck!!

-Kav.

Thanks Rosco.

-Kav.