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flightlead404 flightlead404 is offline
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Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 798
For my install I fabricated a metal bracket that mounts to a boss with two bolt holes on the RHS intake manifold behind the A/C compressor. I believe this was originally used to mount some emissions nonsense that is long gone.

Mounted on this metal bracket is the microsquirt one one side, and a 3 position buss with ATC fuses and the MAP sensor on the other. Its a nice little self contained unit that can easily be removed. I have 3 x 2A fuses currently (couldn't find 1A locally) one each for the MS, and each of the injectors, and power the MS, INJ1, and INJ2 separately through these fuses.

I am currently grounding both the MS grounds to the case using the bolts that mount the bracket to the case. The injectors and sensors of course all sink their grounds through the MS. Power as I mentioned is currently provided from the original WUR power plug using a pigtail I made with the opposite gender EV1 connector.

Here is the bracket

Here's a couple of not very good pictures with the MS, buss, and MAP mounted.

I pick up tacho from the TD output (Black/Violet) off the CDI connector. I take both OPTO lines over the CDI area and ground OPTO- on the metal "shelf". I cut and crimped in a short piece of wire and put a single .093" Molex connector on the free end. Then I put the opposite gender Molex connector on the OPTO+ line from the MS harness and cover with double wall adhesive lined shrink wrap. I find this to be a solid and effective method of making a single removable connection.

For the WBO2 controller (14point7 spartan) I cut off the connector end of the original NBO2 sensor and am using pin 2 of that connector (+12v) to power the controller, grounding in the same location as above. I put a 2 pin Molex on the power, and on the heater power for the WBO2 controller. I put the opposite gender Molex on the MS harness and the sensor and sensor ground for the WBO2 controller (opposite so I don't inadvertently connect power to sensor lines).

(no pics handy yet).

All the individual harness components are tied at each end using waxed lacing cord, then covered with abrasion resistant expandable sleeve, and the ends sealed with double walled adhesive lined shrink wrap.

When I purchased the MS I got the full 3' harness. If I was to do this again I would order a custom 3' harness with only the lines that I need, plus the addition of crank/cam, TPS, and ignition control wires that I might possibly use in the future to control ignition through the MS. I'm thinking I might ultimately go to a COP ignition setup controlled with MS. Then I'd have almost a completely controllable EFI-like setup, but with CIS still in place and very easily put back to stock.

During this exercise I found a number of rather important wires that were very badly hardened and cracked with chunks of insulator missing. That included boost gauge, overboost safety, both ignition coil wires, and the green wire. A new green wire has been ordered and will be installed. The others I cut back to where the insulation was still pliable, then patched in replacement wire of the same or similar colour scheme.

In review I think I might have used 18AWG instead of 16AWG for the brown/white lead to the ignition coil. Does anyone know if this is sufficient?

Last edited by flightlead404; 12-06-2016 at 10:30 AM..
Old 12-06-2016, 10:20 AM
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