Thread: TEC3r failing?
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turbobrat930 turbobrat930 is offline
E-85 sippin drunk
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 1,506
I will preface this by saying, if I come off sounding arrogant, rude, a know-it-all, or mean, I am sorry. As that is NOT my intention at all!
With saying that, I am assuming that you did not tune the car, or had any help in tuning the car originally? If so, then you need to learn a little of information in order to help yourself diagnose your car.

READ THIS FIRST.... added after I posted this....
Also, just adding that while sitting back and thinking about your post, you have A LOT of codes to be showing up for only one sensor to be bad. Either the codes are cumulative, and have not been cleared out (if so then do that first), then see what codes you have. OR, your system may have **** its pants. Clear all the existing codes, then CHECK YOUR GROUNDS

First off, I do not know what sort of PC-interface the TEC3r uses. With any of the name brand, modern EFI systems, the program you use on the computer, should have the settings and ability to display all of your inputs, triggers, and sensors. As well as the ability to test them (I.E. text fire each fuel injector individually, or each coil).

I understand that the TEC3r, is by today's standards, archaic. Back in the day, it was a decent system, but Electromotive has done a crappy, sub-par job at keeping up with the times. Clewett does a good job at helping others (customers and non customers alike), but there is only so much you can do with the equipment.

So, assuming you do not want to rip all of the old stuff out of there, and start over, then here is what I would do, if I was in your shoes.

1. An engine needs 3 things in order to run (assuming no mechanical issues). and that is air, fuel and spark.

You said that you have no spark. Do you have fuel (are the injectors spraying?). We know you have air, and if you have fuel (you may not, depending on if the ECU is also not turning the injectors on), then all we need to worry about at this moment in time is the spark.
On most modern ECU's they rely on a few inputs from triggers and sensors before they will send a signal to the coil(s) to give you spark. Also check for battery voltage under cranking. Sometimes, you think you have a good battery, but under cranking, it drops to a level that the ECU will not operate correctly. and also CHECK, AND RECHECK ALL OF YOUR GROUNDS!!!!!

The first, an one that is suspect most of the time is the CPS, or Crank Position Sensor. On Clewett's setup it is mounted off of an aluminum bracket that uses the distributor hold down stud as its mounting point. It reads the teeth (actually Sinewave and the ECU looks for the -2 teeth spot) on the trigger wheel, (which if this is from Clewett) is bolted to the back of the flywheel pulley. If your ECU can give you a real time reading if it is seeing a signal from the CPS while cranking, then that is the first place I would start. If your ECU does not have this due to it's age, then you can either buy a new one (CPS) or if you have access to a O-scope (or PICOscope), you can test the sensor and the strength yourself.
I would also say that this depends on if the sensor is a reluctor or a Hall effect sensor. The hall effect needs its own power source to give the sensor power (which would be another thing to check)
If your ECU incorporates a Cam position sensor, then this would also need to be checked.

On my ECU (Link G4+), I have the following sensors which the ECU uses to run my engine, some of which would not be needed for spark.
Crank Position Sensor (CPS)
Cam Position Sensor (CPS2)
Manifold Air Pressure (MAP)
Intake Air Temp (IAT)
Oxygen Sensor (O2) wideband
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Engine Coolant Temp (ECT)
Idle air Control Valve(ICV)
Knock Sensor (knock)
Battery voltage (batt)

In my case, if my Crank or Cam Position Sensors are not supplying the ECU with a signal, then the ECU WILL NOT fire the injectors, NOR will it fire the plugs. So, that's why I would tell you to start there. Also, do you run Coil On Plug (COP)or individual coilpacks? There is a possibility that they could be back as well (not likely), or are they getting the required power as well?
On my ECU software, I can view all of the inputs from ALL of the above sensors and triggers real time, so it would not be that hard to isolate the problem (knock on wood!!).
In your case, you offered numerous codes. I have no idea what those codes mean, without something from Electromotive telling you what they are.

What I just told you to do and look at, is exactly what a mechanic will do if you were to bring your car to a shop. But then, you will be paying $100 to $150 an hour labor for this guy to figure out which you can do yourself. It just takes time (which sometimes none of us have) and some knowledge and tools.

Since your car already has been modified with the aftermarket ECU, you have three choices,
rip all the older stuff out, and replace with upgraded equipment with better support
send your car to a shop, and be ready to spend some money
or learn about what you have in detail, and take care of this, and all future problems yourself.

And the best piece of advice I can give anyone is this:
Do not buy an aftermarket EFI system based on what others say, or have. Do you research by all means, but buy a system that you or your tuner KNOWS AND SUPPORTS!!!!
There is nothing worse than getting a system such as Electromotive or another brand, get it installed, and then not have many people around you that know the in and outs of that brand of ECU or its software.
You will save a TON of money on the dyno when the tuner is very familiar with your ECU's PC-interface, and will know exactly where to look for things and the shortcuts to tuning that particular system efficiently and correctly!!!!!!
Brad...930 gt-1 racecar, increased displacement to 3.6L, JB racing Cylinders, JE 8 to1 pistons, stroked crank, Carrillo rods, extrudehoned 3.2L intake, full bay Bell I/C, GT-2 EVO cams, Rarly8 headers, GTX-35RS turbo, twin plug, P&P heads, Link G4 EFi system, G-50/50 with LTD slip and oil squirters/oil cooler, zork tube, full race coilover system, with carbon fiber body, full cage, E-85 sippin drunk

Last edited by turbobrat930; 06-09-2017 at 10:53 AM..
Old 06-09-2017, 10:19 AM
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