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submerge submerge is offline
Driving these daily.
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 74
Garage
Shop Rebuilt 2.7 - Issues. Opinions please.

Hi,
1977 2.7 911S
Complete rebuild. Case line bored, crank polished, heads, valves, every seal, gasket... everything.

After a couple hundred miles I brought the engine back because of an oil leak. Its a mag case, I understand, but the leak was straight onto my exhaust. Smelling, smoking and super annoying for a new engine. They pulled the engine, found a valve cover leak, rocker arm shafts where worn and creating a leak and one other from an oil line to the reservoir. I got a new turbo valve cover (mine was warped), replaced lines. I also mentioned the car ran hot, multiple time in traffic. The sealant for the oil return tubes had dripped down onto the case (black and hardened drip). Apparently this only happens when the engine is hotter than normal.

Leak did not stop, but I drove another couple hundred miles and a hose came off in the back of the engine from the airbox down to the case. Oil is sprinkled everywhere and smoke coming out of the engine bay like a fire while I'm in traffic on the freeway. Pull over, can't see the hose because its in back and I just have the car towed in. I'm about at the 500 mile service anyway.

Engine out, find the hose. "By the way your oil cooler has been the culprit of the leaking." Ok, so I go find another (tested and cleaned) cooler and they install. After installing they check the oil thermostat on the case (not the external) and it seems to have been binding up and not working correctly. So, I go get a new oil thermostat and they install.

Engine goes back in, car warms up and cam tower seals start leaking. I don't know exactly what that is, some seal or 0-ring on the chain housing I'm assuming. The theory is that the thermostat wasn't functioning, so oil pressure was building up and not flowing through the cooler, "boiling" the oil he said. This pressure has now resulted in the other new seals starting to leak. Engine comes back out, heads have to come off to change the seals.

Should I expect to be paying to have this engine removed 3 times and the labor to change these seals?

I'm frustrated with the whole process to say the least. I'm now looking at $2k in labor on an engine that has just under 500 miles on it. Not to mention the new parts.

Is this just a bad scenario? I mean I understand you have to test and eliminate variables, I've worked as a mechanic and get it.

Thanks for reading if you made it though this novel.
Old 10-04-2017, 03:35 PM
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