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bugstrider bugstrider is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Placerville, CA.... You know, the only place on Highway 50 between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe the you find signal lights. Above the fog most of the time and I can see the stars of the Milky Way 8 out of 10 nights. Kinda cool.....
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My "ReFuze" panel upgrade adventure

Well then,

I decided to jump in with both feet and a tweaked back from cutting wood all day yesterday. That drama I'll save for another day. Anyway, I dove into the included instruction, which were very straight forward and figured I could knock this out.



After it is all said and done, you could get this upgrade done in two-three hours taking your time and double checking your work. With that being said, more time could be spent depending on the condition of your OEM fuse bar, which was exactly my case. It was sort of a "worst case" scenario and since Murphy has a full on nelson head lock on me at all times, I took substantially more time than the average person doing this upgrade because of this. It seemed like every connector has corrosion and crud that I only felt should be addressed if I were to do the job right. I discovered bare wires missing the fitted connector ends, bad connections and even wires being held in place by a single or double strand.

In my initial posting, I failed to mention that the ReFuze kit really worked out for me since I had previously built a headlight relay kit supplied by another Pelican and upgraded the power supply lines to each bucket including upgraded bulb connectors.

I took multiple photos of my existing board with attached lines and fuses in place as recommended my the instructions. I would also recommend that when you do this photo shoot, be sure to get close-ups of the wire arrangements top and bottom. This really helps when you think all the wires are snugged up and you find a stray. Ask me how I know this little nugget.

Tops of the OEM block

Bottom shot of the OEM block.


As the instruction recommend, I started on the OEM 8 fuse block. This gets you into the proper fine tuned mindset before you hit the 13 fuse OEM block. It's all the same procedures you are doing, just that starting out small is always helpful and recommended before attempting the upgrade on the rats nest we call the 911 fuse block.

The next step is to bundle the groups of multiple wires that go into a particular connection. Even doing this, a single wire, usually one on the bottom may escape the zip tie.

Bundled groups of wires using the provided white zip ties.

Speaking of zip ties, there is a small tool that I recommend getting if you can. They are great for snipping off the extra leg from a tie to making a fine cut to wire. Due to the fine point and sharpness, they allow you to precisely cut zip ties reducing the chances of an accidental wire cut. I'll go as far as saying due to their sharpness, they work great for removing a splinter or a wire shard that get embedded into your finger. Once again, ask me why I know this. Here in Sacramento, we have a store called Blue Collar Supply, they have surplus metal, tools and miscellaneous stuff. This is the place I got those snips.

Because I am "me", in addition to using the wire bundle method to assist you in keeping the wire sequence in line, I did kinda go OCD. Last year I purchased a Brother P-Touch labeler and by gawd, I'm gonna use the dang thing..... so I went as far as making a series of numbers that I could cut and stick onto the wires to help "me" keep them straight. This step is totally above and beyond what needs to be done, it's something I did and yes, I lost a bit of time doing this.


Once I got the connectors disconnected, that's when I discovered a few disturbing factoids. First, there was a lot of corrosion, and second, I had several broken and frayed wires.

Example of some nasty corrosion I found.


I'll continue the write-up tomorrow.

Nite fellas.

Cheers


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1978 911SC Targa
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Last edited by bugstrider; 10-25-2017 at 10:28 AM..
Old 10-24-2017, 08:49 PM
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