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Bmw 320i e90 valvetronic issue

Hi, this is my first post on this forum so please bear with me.
I have a 2006 BMW 320i and it's suffering from a very random misfire issue.
It can happen after 15 miles of driving or after 100 miles of driving.
I have carried out obvious repairs such as servicing, new spark plugs and ignition coils.
When the misfire happens it can be either under load or just whilst cruising along.
After carrying out a diagnostic scan the only fault that came up was for the valvetronic system.
There are no specific cylinder misfire codes.
I am wondering if a faulty valvetronic actuator would cause a misfire issue. Any help with this issue would be much appreciated.
Old 01-07-2018, 04:52 AM
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Hello and welcome to the forum! It's possible that the actuator had gone bad, but the sensor is likely to fail more often - I would check it first. I'm also linking you to our site's DIY tech article on the valvetronic motor itself - it may help you troubleshoot further; hopefully it's not the motor itself. Please let us know if you have any other questions!

https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-3-Series-E90/FUEL-Valvetronic_Motor_Replacing/FUEL-Valvetronic_Motor_Replacing.htm
Old 01-08-2018, 12:13 PM
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That’s great, thanks very much for your help.
Old 01-13-2018, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burford Motors View Post
Hi, this is my first post on this forum so please bear with me.

I have a 2006 BMW 320i and it's suffering from a very random misfire issue.

It can happen after 15 miles of driving or after 100 miles of driving.

I have carried out obvious repairs such as servicing, new spark plugs and ignition coils.

When the misfire happens it can be either under load or just whilst cruising along.

After carrying out a diagnostic scan the only fault that came up was for the valvetronic system.

There are no specific cylinder misfire codes.

I am wondering if a faulty valvetronic actuator would cause a misfire issue. Any help with this issue would be much appreciated.


I had the same issues with my 2011 e90 328xi. It would take a few tries to start the car on cold days, had a very rough idle, had 3 misfires and there was oil in the sensor. Take off the vanity cover and check the eccentric shaft sensor plug. If there’s oil in it, it’s your eccentric shaft sensor you’ll need to replace. Like the other guy said, the valvetronic actuators are usually not the issue, it’s the sensor. My dealer quoted me $2,200 to $2,600 depending on “what they saw” when they were in there to do the repair. I bought the OE sensor for $195, a new valve cover gasket and spark plug sleeves for another $125 and did it myself last weekend. It took me about 8 hours total and that was the first time I’ve done anything of that significance before. My car runs like new again. If you do it, your biggest issue will probably be getting crankcase breather hose off the back of the valve cover by the firewall. Be very careful with that because they get brittle over time and if you break it, you’ll need to remove the intake to replace it.


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Old 01-18-2018, 08:58 PM
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What Code(s) did you have?
Old 01-25-2018, 03:14 PM
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Did you have to have a BMW scan tool to reset the service engine light?

I too have the 2011 328ix and its most likely the sensor and I plan on doing it this weekend.
Old 02-05-2018, 03:17 PM
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Sludge in Valvetronic actuator? Or eccentric sensor really faulty?

2011 BMW 328i Convertible - 6 cylinders. Very low usage, only 30k miles on 7 year car!
After a year of sitting idle in the garage (with occasional use) the car battery became very problematic. I jump started the car a few times which may have caused the electrical nightmares that followed.

Symptoms:
With a new battery, or if engine is warm, car starts and runs fine.
But when engine is cold or voltage is low, the engine either does not start or is jerky. It has a rough idle (low growl high vibration), and never runs above 1500 RPM, no matter how much throttle if given. This morning the car jerked it's way at 15 mph for 0.25 mile and engine died. I tried starting again and it came to life and started fine, as if there had never been a problem.

Error codes:
2A37 Valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor plausibility; P-code P1017 VVT sensors plausibility
2A47 Valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor plausibility;
See pictures of nominal vs actual angle.

Apparent issue:
The problem exists only at ignition time when the Valvetronic actuator is being calibrated or the limit stops are being learnt by computer. The actuator is not making it's way all the way to one end. Hence, the difference in nominal vs actual angle.
There is no oil leak on the eccentric shaft sensor connectors (plug). Pins look clean. The sensor itself may not be faulty as the engine starts fine at least some of the times.

What is the real issue?
Could it be that some debris or sludge is inside the actuator causing it to not move to one of hte limits when engine is cold, but the actuator can move when the sludge warms up?

Or could it be an electrical issue where voltage is low and insufficient to move the actuator (screen shows 4.9V)? Perhaps after the alternator has charged the battery enough, and the voltage is strong enough to move the actuator?

Any thoughts from the experts here would be greatly greatly appreciated! I am a total newbie and have never worked on a car before. I didn't even know what a scan tool was until 4 weeks ago. Please help!!!



Old 04-20-2018, 09:18 AM
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