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Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 3
E36 328is track or HDPE car

Hey everyone. I'm going to miss this car, but I need to make room for a new build.

1997 E36 328is track car with new paint, rollbar, coilovers, 4-piston Stoptech front brakes, M3 cams, Dinan CAI and much much more: $5,950

Pics: https://imgur.com/a/a1f3ANp

I just had it painted in the original black. Not because of damage - the clearcoat was starting to peel and I wanted to tidy it up. I replaced the front bumper with an M3-style facia, mirrors and the headlights at the same time.

The car is located in Ventura County, CA, and is non-op'ed (ie not licensed) since I only use it at the track and have a trailer.

I've had this for about 10 years, and it was my daily driver for a while until I converted it to a full-time track car. It's very balanced at the track - the ultimate momentum car. It'll surprise some very fast cars in the sweepers. It's done a best of 1:38 at Big Willow and 2:08 at Buttonwillow. I think it has a bit more in it with a little more front camber (and maybe a little more talent!).

Here's a lap at Big Willow. Not my fastest, but just so you can see it in action:
https://youtu.be/NjW7xPNSmpg

It has:

KW Clubsport Coilovers
17x8.5 Kosei K1 Racing Silver
H&R Sway Bars (front and rear)
Rear adjustable control arms
X-Brace
NT-01s (maybe one more track day in them)

s52 Cams
M3 Diff (3:15)
S50/M50 Intake Manifold
Shark injector with tune for the cams/manifold/CAI
Dinan CAI
VAC Dual pump kit (a must at tracks with high-speed sweepers)
VDO Gauge kit
Turner Underdrive pulleys
A/C delete
Fan delete
Stromung Exhaust
UUC Short shift kit
New VANOS

M3 style front spoiler
Aluminum Door Panels
New Paint
Sunroof delete
Corbeau seats
Sparco Strada Steering wheel
G Force 6 point harnesses
4- point Roll bar (bolt in)

Hawk HT10 Brake Pads
Stoptech 4 piston brake kit
Hi-temp brake fluid

Caveats/things it needs:

The CEL is on and throws a stuck Vanos code, despite it having been just replaced. I'm told this is common when you do the S52 cam swaps. I'm told by Dr Vanos that the fix is to drill out the cam sensor holes a little wider and advance it 3 degrees so that the wheel syncs correctly with the sensor. I haven't needed to smog it, so I simply reset the code. It typically comes back on 1 or 2 trackdays later.

It also has a tick, which it's done for the last few years. It continues to run strong so I didn't worry about it. Collective wisdom was to overfill the oil a little, and that seems to quiet it down.

No problems whatsoever with cold starts, power delivery, or overall power. It's been very well maintained - always synthetic, always fresh fluids.

If I was keeping the car, I'd put spacers in and some camber shims to bring the front camber out to -3 deg. It's maxed out at about -2.1 deg.

For the right buyer, I might be willing to deliver the car within a 100mi radius (so LA county, Ventura county, and Santa Barbara county) if you don't have a trailer.

Open to reasonable offers. This is a fabulous car for someone who's starting to outgrow their street car at track days and wants something dedicated, fun, and cheap to run. As you guys know, parts are inexpensive and plentiful.

Reply to the thread with questions or PM me if you're interested.

-Matt



Old 05-25-2018, 08:00 AM
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Sale pending.
Old 05-28-2018, 10:21 AM
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Old 06-03-2018, 01:13 PM
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