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I just looked at your video and doesn't look like much, I don't think you have an issue
Old 05-09-2019, 06:25 PM
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#2, any play is unacceptable

RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog
Old 05-09-2019, 06:29 PM
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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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Just saw this video in case the big bearing is gone. At 19K I doubt it but nonetheless pretty interesting watch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVK_lpFoFok
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:04 PM
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Rique-

Have a look here for pivot bearings-

Pivot bearing installation complete

I tried the bronze bushings once and they went to hell in a hurry. I went back to using OEM.

Also some photos you might find interesting-

Driveshaft and more love.
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:51 PM
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Yeah, there is a split camp on the bronze bushing issue. I have had great results with them but I found the installation to be a trial. They are very dependent on installation protocol and type of lubricant used during assembly.

I was put off by how bad my stock bearings looked when they came out, really destroyed, but I had just picked up the bike and had no history on it.

The seller, BTW, sold me the bike thinking it had a bad rear drive, I got that confession out of him after I drove it home to Florida from Utah.
Old 05-10-2019, 03:26 AM
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Brent
 
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do not use the bronze ones ted porter had lots of dead ones on his counter
aparently they fail quickly
your prelaod could just be slightly off if it is the pivot bearings
this is easy to tell which it is, slide the boot off and put your hand on the joint
and you can feel the motion in the joint.
same thing on the wheel bearings put your hand on the rotor/hub joint and see if it moves
Old 05-10-2019, 03:59 AM
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If you search on here there are many stories of brass bushings eating it quickly. These are mostly from when they were introduced & most quickly abandoned them as they wore out far sooner than the oem bearings. Bykemike how many miles on yours? You may be one of the only ones still using them.
Old 05-10-2019, 06:50 AM
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Regarding the final drive; it is good maintenance to change the final drive gear oil every time you change the engine oil. If you see chunks or pieces that is a sign your bearing is on its way out. Doesn't cost a lot either or take much time.
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Old 05-10-2019, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoodwin View Post
If you search on here there are many stories of brass bushings eating it quickly. These are mostly from when they were introduced & most quickly abandoned them as they wore out far sooner than the oem bearings. Bykemike how many miles on yours? You may be one of the only ones still using them.
On that S (gone now) I was at a little over 23k on them when I sold it. I had molyed them real well on assembly and was certain they got their required 2000 mile adjustment, which seemed to seat them fully.

I had heard the short life stories and I was a bit put off on the assembly process but I wanted to try them.

The stock bearings I pulled out of the same bike were totaled and I didn't want a repeat on that. In retrospect I believe the seller of that bike had cranked down on the inboard pin in order to minimize the amount play a prospective buyer would detect. I don't think he expected the buyer (me) to toss some soft luggage on the bike and head out for a 3800 mile return trip...he called for the first few evenings to see if I was doing well.
Old 05-10-2019, 10:27 AM
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Did he offer to pick you up if it imploded?
Old 05-10-2019, 11:59 AM
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Found this interesting site on the pivot bearings. The test for them is to step on the rear brake and wiggle. If play is present its the PB if it is not its the final drive bearings.
Did the test and seems to be the PB. I am inclined to replace with original BMW part its to much of a stress and working area to do brass. me thinks anyway

Thought I would share for others to see.



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--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-10-2019, 01:20 PM
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This is by far the best advice in this thread. All I will add is to clean, inspect and re-grease the bearings prior to reassembly (which is clearly implicit but not stated). Replacement OEM bearings are stupid expensive and in my experience they almost never need replacement, just readjustment (i.e. torque preload) per the manual and reassembly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimMoore View Post
First, check the pivot bearings. Remove them, clean the threads, and re-tighten them to the right spec. It takes heat to break the locktite to remove them. Then you need to thoroughly clean all the threads with a wire brush.

With the final drive off you can check to se where the oil is originating. It's either the transmission output seal or the seal at the front of the final drive. I'd ignore a small amount of oil, but a significant leak needs to be addressed.

Re-installing the final drive is a little tricky. I use tiny zip ties to hold the pivot bearings in place while I wrestle with the driveshaft. I also put the FD on a floor jack.
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Old 05-11-2019, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwillikers View Post
This is by far the best advice in this thread. All I will add is to clean, inspect and re-grease the bearings prior to reassembly (which is clearly implicit but not stated). Replacement OEM bearings are stupid expensive and in my experience they almost never need replacement, just readjustment (i.e. torque preload) per the manual and reassembly.
I'm glad to mention that I found the exact same bearings at half the price and made in Germany. Your advise is good but how long would the old ones last before they need another relube and adjustment. Went the safe way considering the sale price.
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BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-11-2019, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwillikers View Post
...my experience they almost never need replacement, just readjustment (i.e. torque preload) per the manual and reassembly.
This has not been my good fortune, when mine failed, the bearing basically seized and wore on the race, not a regrease and retorque moment...I did not occasionally open them up and regrease them, pretty much ran them to failure and replaced several sets to date, always using all thread and a combination of washers and sockets to press them out, not the proper BMW tool...

I also agree with an earlier comment there should not be any play, these are tapered roller bearings as is the final drive bearing, which essentially means they are preloaded (no lash), there should be sufficient preload to not have any play when we torque the wheel, takes a lot force of overcome the preload, you could be the strongest man in the world and not be up for this...

The bushings from Rubber Chicken I'm running on my previous R1150S and soon to be on my new R1150SR project bike have held up but were a PITA to fit, had to use my lathe to sand down the pivots to fit the bushing (inner) but once it sllpped on, it seemed to work well and I did use moly on the pivot surfaces and they are tapered like the roller bearings they replaced, my personal opinion, the factory bearings offer lower stiction and bushings if installed properly offer more durability but I still need more miles to prove the second point...

Hope this helps...
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Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-11-2019 at 08:43 PM..
Old 05-11-2019, 08:41 PM
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I have a hydraulic press at home. I wonder if this makes bearing removal easier?
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A Zest for living requires a willingness to die!
--------------------------------------------------------
BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-12-2019, 06:46 AM
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Since your Paralever Arm is on the bike, getting it into position might be a challenge, buy the right tool or some all thread, assuming you have a good socket selection to mix and match to get them out and news ones in...it's not bad once you get the hand of it and not a ton of pressure to remove...
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Old 05-12-2019, 03:46 PM
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Brent
 
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yeah use the allthread or just long threaded bolts work fine use a large/small socket pair
sized to fit inside the race mount and outside the od of the outer race on the arm
faster than puting it in the press
check the ones on the front also
Old 05-13-2019, 06:24 PM
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