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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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Play at rear wheel

When I hold my rear tire and rock it side to side I can feel a very slight play. Nuts are well tightened with torque wrench. How can I address this? Is there a why I can tighten the hub? Thnx
R1100S

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Old 05-07-2019, 12:38 PM
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Call Anton and see how soon he can rebuild the final drive.
DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTIL IT IS REBUILT.
Old 05-07-2019, 01:20 PM
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Make sure the play you're sensing is not in the pivot bearings.
Old 05-07-2019, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jduke View Post
Call Anton and see how soon he can rebuild the final drive.
DO NOT DRIVE IT UNTIL IT IS REBUILT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by giarcg View Post
Make sure the play you're sensing is not in the pivot bearings.
+1 on checking Final Drive bearings

&

+1 on checking Pivot Bearings (check these first as they typically go out more often)
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Last edited by BadToTheBown; 05-07-2019 at 06:40 PM..
Old 05-07-2019, 06:38 PM
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diz plaz is cwazy
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadToTheBown View Post
+1 on checking Final Drive bearings

&

+1 on checking Pivot Bearings (check these first as they typically go out more often)
I have a small oil leak on the big swing arm rubber boot. Could this be a tell tale of a bad bearing due to bad oil seal?
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BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-07-2019, 06:45 PM
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I had a small leak at the pinion seal that shows up in the rubber boot you mention. I was told when the final drive bearing starts to go bad it gets loose and that puts extra pressure on the pinion seal.
Hopefully you caught it before any serious damage to the final drive.
Everything I've heard is the problem is the shimming of the gear set so just replacing the bearings and seal won't be a long term fix. It needs to be properly shimmed.
Old 05-07-2019, 07:05 PM
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First, check the pivot bearings. Remove them, clean the threads, and re-tighten them to the right spec. It takes heat to break the locktite to remove them. Then you need to thoroughly clean all the threads with a wire brush.

With the final drive off you can check to se where the oil is originating. It's either the transmission output seal or the seal at the front of the final drive. I'd ignore a small amount of oil, but a significant leak needs to be addressed.

Re-installing the final drive is a little tricky. I use tiny zip ties to hold the pivot bearings in place while I wrestle with the driveshaft. I also put the FD on a floor jack.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:22 AM
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If you do remove the final drive learn what there is to know about driveshaft phasing before going back together. Also, placing a rag under the driveshaft to hold it up as high as possible aids in getting the splines started and seeing the marks you will make due to phasing. Once the splines are started remove the rag.

One more thing... if you determine the oil is coming from the pinion seal area know that it might not be the seal. The oil may be working its way thought the threads of the nut that secures the bearing outer race in the housing. I found this hard to believe until I proved it on my RT. Removed the nut, applied anaerobic sealant to the threads, reassembled.... no more leak.

Last edited by giarcg; 05-08-2019 at 05:42 AM..
Old 05-08-2019, 05:30 AM
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Go easy on this and do not over do! A little play in all directions is fairly normal. (Now we have to define "Little")

Pivot bearing play is a common culprit and not especially critical until it gets bad, cheap to fix as well. If the rear drive oil looks good, all spins quietly and has no leakage odds are in your favor you are ok on the drive just watch it a bit.

Don't take anything apart until you are sure it needs to come apart!!
Old 05-09-2019, 06:21 AM
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I had the "oil in the boot" too and it was the pinion seal. When the pivot bearings are shot they will creak when the swingarm moves.
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:23 AM
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With all the known issues and problems with oilhead final drives I wouldn't take a chance. For less than $500 you can have the final drive rebuilt.
I do agree you need to check things. Pinion seals are a known problem. Pivot bearings are too. Both are relatively cheap to replace. But a final drive is almost a kiss of death on a 15+ year old bike.
Old 05-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bykemike View Post
Go easy on this and do not over do! A little play in all directions is fairly normal. (Now we have to define "Little")

Pivot bearing play is a common culprit and not especially critical until it gets bad, cheap to fix as well. If the rear drive oil looks good, all spins quietly and has no leakage odds are in your favor you are ok on the drive just watch it a bit.

Don't take anything apart until you are sure it needs to come apart!!
I will post a video of what the play is. Maybe Im over reacting, I will place a gauge so we all have a better idea of what is acceptable or to much.
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BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-09-2019, 07:39 AM
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Pinions first...
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Old 05-09-2019, 07:50 AM
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This may have been covered here before but ,personally, I shy away from preemptively opening any component and rebuilding it. The odds of doing more harm than good are pretty high, there are not that many Antons around.

With over a dozen oil and hex head bikes in the last 15 or so years I have only had one rear drive issue and I really pile up the miles on all these bikes.

Want to have some real problems? Take apart a nicely running factory component and "rebuild" it on spec. I don't think so.
Old 05-09-2019, 12:10 PM
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Itll be Pivot bearings just surprised that someone who has been on here since 09 is even asking.
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Old 05-09-2019, 12:50 PM
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Here is a video of the play. You can see the wheel vs the mark on the brick floor.
Strange thing is I can wobble tire if I hold horizontally but if I hold vertically there is no play at all. Bike has 19000 miles on the odo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S35F4W7EYpA
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BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-09-2019, 12:56 PM
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When mine did that I replaced the pivot bearings & the pins, all betterer.
Old 05-09-2019, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by sgoodwin View Post
When mine did that I replaced the pivot bearings & the pins, all betterer.
Are you referring to these bearings?

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BWM R1100S 2004 (fat girl) BMW S1000RR 2011(skinny
BMW R1200S 2007 (stingger) Honda CX500TC 1982 (turbo)
Old 05-09-2019, 05:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIQUE View Post
I have a small oil leak on the big swing arm rubber boot. Could this be a tell tale of a bad bearing due to bad oil seal?
Possible but not conclusive. I think other members advice to check the pivots first, then the Final Drive is wise...have fun putting the Final Drive back on, I've been able to get it on first try only once...I have developed a preference for putting the Drive Shaft Yoke onto the Final Drive and slipping the Drive Shaft splines together BUT you have to get your Drive Shaft phasing right or else...I've also personally had good luck getting the locktite out of the threads with a right angle scribe, one of my bikes now has the brass pivot bushings, they're holding up...
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Old 05-09-2019, 05:50 PM
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The pivot bearings we are talking are associated with the pins labeled 10 and 8 in that illustration, but the bearings themselves don't show on that plate.

There are the stock bearings available as well as the bronze version that Rubber Chicken were selling and a nylon version I have heard of but never seen.

I put the bronze ones on all my S bikes when they needed them, I'm a fan of that method
Old 05-09-2019, 06:20 PM
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