Used R1100S checkover list
 

Hi all,

New member here and I'm in the market for an R1100S but am not sure what things to look for when considering bikes with about 30K mileage. Hardened rubber like tires and
fork seals of course but what other giveaways are there that proper maintenance has been done/not done? I've heard mention that clutches last about 9K, true? Splines, not sure..

Thanks

Splines are the big issue, and it's impossible to check them without removing the starter. Unfortunately 30K miles is the sweet spot for a spline failure. There's no way in hell I'd buy a bike with 30K miles unless I could check the splines. I'd feel much better about a bike with 75K miles that has not had any clutch issues.

Speaking of the clutch, no, it's not true that they only last 9K miles. Most of them easily go 100K miles.

Date code on tires
Brake lines
Rubber fuel lines
Last Battery Replacement
Final drive, any side to side play
Last oil change, trans and rear drive fluid change
Last brake fluid flush, especially servo brakes

Where are you located? Bikes pop up on here for sale pretty often.

I've never heard that about clutches.. It's a sport touring motorcycle. People aren't burning them up as a general rule. Maybe 100,000 miles?

Splines can and do fail on maybe 6% of the 80,000 bikes that were manufactured over the years. Or maybe it's 100% if you believe Jim Moore. It's just something to be aware of.

Bigger issues at this age are deteriorating rubber on brake lines, fuel pumps, some don't like the ABS systems.

I'd put together a list of what you might want in this bike, such as:
Year
Color
ABS (Y/N).
Original BMW hard luggage (for the R1100S)
Ohlins (Y/N)
Aftermarket Exhaust (Y/N)
If you're extremely lucky you might find one with aftermarket carbon fiber wheels.

Look under the seat and see if the toolkit is there too. Not that you'll need it, but it makes the bike complete.
Also the seat cowl. Some have, some don't.

Then there's the whole slew of items that you just can't buy anymore..

Remember it's 20 years old, and things go wrong, so don't expect perfection (Unless it was my bike)...

Find one with good suspension upgrades, IE: Ohlins, they can be rebuilt by Ohlins USA to new specs. at a reasonable cost.

I’d be checking what after market goodies have been fitted because those are the things that make these bikes really tick.

Do the Ohlins really make a big difference? Seems like the stock units are filled with rubber cement by comparison.

Thanks all for all the insights! I'm in Seattle if anyone has leads..

Ohlins on the 02 R1100S are the best shocks on any of the bikes we own. I've just order a custom set for my R1100S BCR, they are very expensive. The 02 when bought had the Ohlins, got them rebuilt by Ohlins USA to like new spec for around $450. Any bike with more than 20,000 miles will have worn out shocks. Also lower mileage bikes being 15-20 years old would have questionable shocks just because of their seals and o-rings aging. Best money spent on a bike is the suspension.

Look at the invoices. If the splines were lubed, see when, what other work was done at the time and who did the work. V belt should have been done by 30,000 miles. Original fuel pump?

From the very first day I rode an 1100s my priority was engine performance because the motor was as flat as a Witch’s tit....suspension is nice but not remotely close to the top of my list that came later.

Does the bike have??

Aftermarket exhaust
Lennie’s Induct
San Jose Air Filter
Power Commander
Later Injectors

In my book they are the absolute basics you need to get the motor breathing like it should, after that the list is endless...the torture chamber of a seat..apart from the demo bike I rode in September 98 i’ve Always ridden with the high bar option, never seen the point in the low bars with a bike with such limited HP.

After those i’ve Changed Brakes, tank size(non abs)wheels,body work(carbon)HID,rear light,Suspension

If it has a fair number of the above then i’d Be looking at basic maintenance that you look for on any bike.

Everyone has their personal preferences. The way I look at it is all the HP/Torque can't be utilized if the Suspension isn't up to a high standard.
Most all of the Items mentioned for HP gains are NLA and finding a S which has any is probable low on the used market in the states here.
I don't own the BMW's for track days, we use a Suzuki GSXR 600. The S bikes are just a really fun bike for riding in the Sierra Nevada Mountain roads where handling is a priority.
PS: My Sargent seat for the BCR got shipped today so will most likely see it the end of next week.

One of the things I never got around too was a big bore kit, great fun reading a thread from all those years back and the names no longer on here...hey ho.

Put her on the center stand and try to wiggle the rear wheel.

Look at the subframe tabs for hairline cracks.

Maintenance history, maintenance history, maintenance history.

Realistically the stock shocks work fine at real world speeds if they are set up properly. I'm 220lbs in leathers...I ride it like a sportbike and they work fine. Not as well as my HP2 suspension.

I have the funds to go full Ohlins, but there is no need on this bike unless you plan to put it on the track. As a matter of fact I'll be looking for an OEM replacement for the rear.

Be aware that not all have center stands too.

There are various configurations of this bike.

Those without center stands were considered the "sport" or "Lite" or "Boxercup Preps." Depending on BMW marketing and the year...

However some without center stands may still have ABS and heated grips, and a rear cowl, whereas the original Boxercup Preps did not (I think). SOme bikes did, some didn't.

This is why it can get confusing. There's other small differences, often in the same year, where one version cost $16,000 and had everything, while a more stripped down version might have retailed cheaper, like $13,000 but also had less...

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Well said...

It’s quite an interesting thread...because the view point is 20 years on and we are looking back rather than forward, my first thought when I rode an 1100s ‘This thing couldn’t outrun my 10 year old FJ1200’ and that was nearly 20 years ago and judging by the old threads that was the majority...but time moves on.

As I said,I took my Ohlins off the front and never went back,but I do have a lithium battery on it..Dymags and heaven knows what else to get the weight off as 100hp was all the motor was going to do, and for me the Holy Grail was altering the gearing of the rear bevel but is still an official secret to this day ��,but 100mph is 4900 revs...

Yes it is quite an interesting thread. I personally like the older (15-20 years) bikes better than the new bikes I ride. You can actually ride and work them without all the computer restrictions along with the stupid power. My XR will do around 90 in first gear, shifts up and down without the clutch and probably can wipe my ass if I could find the right switch/button to push.

I have to disagree on suspension upgrades. The stock shocks on mine were clapped out at 12k & would readily bottom out on even small bumps. The Ohlins completely transformed the handling & continue to this day giving complete control with excellent feel while screaming around mountain roads. As said they are rebuildable when needed, there was a rebuild service from someone for stock crap but I can't imagine why you would.

While I looked into having the stock OEM shocks, Showa rebuilt I learned from Race Tech the rear can be rebuilt and upgraded/revalved around $600.00. The front Showa shock is a sealed unit and can not be rebuilt. Race Tech is an authorized Showa service center however they would be using some of their valving in the rear. Race Tech would rather sell you new, their shocks don't have the remote reservoirs, a big plus for the Ohlins in my opinion. I'm still waiting on the Ohlins I have on order, can hardly ride the bike now while I'm waiting knowing how bad these OEM shocks are.