Front shock removal
 

Does the body work have to be removed when removing and replacing the front shock on an R1100S?

Since it's not that hard, removing the fairings makes it easier from the accessibility standpoint. The extra 15 minutes to remove them will pay off in the long run. Don't forget the screws installed behind the BMW emblems and the ones inside the oil cooler ducts.

Frank

Thanks Frank!

Practice makes perfect on removing the Tupperware.
I’ve got it down to just the whole weekend now!

The usual warning :

When removing the silver colored " Soft - Hard Tension " adjustment knob on top of the
fairing, be careful because there's a spring and small ball bearing underneath that likes to go flying.

Just for general info, ACE hardware has a ball bearing bin with a selection that has a size that fits that application. Just in case.
Also, for the latch and expandable rubber fastener that keeps the two fairing halves together a shot of some dish soap mixed with water makes it easier to remove. P-80 works better if you have some of that.

Not hard to take off the fairings. Thanks to all.

Was there anything tricky in removing the front shock (assuming the bodywork is off)?

It looks like you remove the silver knob (one philips screw) and then ... my shock appears to have a single-flatted nut under that, not a hex nut like the manual shows. Is there any trick to that? Heat it up, hold some other piece somehow, etc?

Will the front end collapse with the shock out? (I guess I could make it rear-heavy by taking off the front wheel.) Or maybe with the shock out, the front end no longer pulls down the headstock, so the bike rocks onto the rear wheel?)

The shock top knob is removed by the nut underneath it not the phillips screw on top. There is a set lock screw (Allen) on the side of that hex nut to loosen first. Then take the shocks top mounting nut loose.
You need to take the weight off the front tire to take the shock out and hold the bikes suspension.

Great info, thanks! None of that is apparent from the drawings & instructions in Clymer or the R1100S manual.

If only doing a shock change the body-work isn't in the way.

That saves me another half-hour, great! (I actually have to pull the shock to get an accurate measurement of it, then replace, then send the measurement to Ted Porter so I get the exact right Wilbers to swap. Then, when it arrives, I have to do it all again.)

It's pretty easy, just make sure you have most of the weight off the front so you can get the right angle to get it out. You may have to take the horn loose.
Make sure you get Wilbers from Ted. He tries to talk you into other options and they aren't as good.

Hey mophead, submitted for your consideration is my practice of using zipties behind the badges on the side slabs.

Old thread revival.

Suggestions on how to unload the suspension? I need to remove the front wheel and the front shock. I have a two post lift i was going to tie straps around the top tree or the handle bars and pivot it up while its resting on its pit-bull stand.

I made an adapter that bolted to the threaded holes in the bottom of the engine for my 2 post lift.

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That looks great!!!

I tried to lift the bike using a piece of wood and my floor jack while the rear was suspended on the Pitbull stand but it started leaning towards the left side.

I ordered a 2x4 sawhorse kit and will make a tall sawhorse to suspend the front end from so that I can get everything apart.

Will update once I get everything together.

With my S’s I was able to jack the front wheel off the ground with a block of wood under the oil pan and a floor jack.

With my BCRs, the belly pan is in the way. I use a 1.5” d pvc pipe to lift the front wheel. The pipe seats on the underside of the A-arm in the dimple that supports the lower end of the front shock. I use a 1940’s Ford screw-jack to lift the pvc. The pvc must be attached to the belly pan’s vertical strut on the pan’s inlet (on a S, the crossover pipe is a good securing-point).

As was pointed out; don’t remove the silver adjusting knob from the top of the front shock. Below the silver knob is a two-flatted black, 14 mm nut. Remove the silver knob-assembly then remove the clamp nut holding the shock to the gooseneck. Make sure to note the order of spacers and rubber bushing on both sides of the gooseneck as they will most likely be used with an aftermarket shock.

Hanging the bike at the top clamp with an overhead hoist is very helpful. With the A-arm jack and the hoist, the shock can be easily removed.

Be very careful with the front fender. Don’t use it for a tool rest.The carbon fiber is easily cracked if the fender is flexed.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1728769434.jpg
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