Help with Pivot Bearing Install

[arbezc]

Hello,
I’d appreciate any pointers on the safest approach to installing an after-market Emerald Island Paralever Bushing Kit in an R1100S. I’ve searched this forum but came up cold.


I’m having trouble installing new rear pivot bearings in my 2001 R1100S. I’ve heated the housing with a paint stripper (hot but temperature unknown) & chilled the bushing in a freezer. I tried to hammer it home using a matching socket. The bushing jammed about half way in - I must have started on an angle. A slight ridge was left which I’ve removed.

Most You-tube clips show guys just hammering the bearings in cold. Some people recommend pulling the bearings into place with a threaded rod. Unfortunately these bearings are closed on the back side. Another option is the use of a C-clamp. For starters I’ll use an infrared thermometer to bring the housing up to 200-250 F.

I would appreciate any suggestions,
Thanks Charles

[908/930]

Do you have any way to accurately measure the new bearing compared to the old one, have a 1-2" micrometer or know somebody that does? I would mot worry about placing in freezer, this change in size won't be worth the effort, unless it is made out of plastic, making sure the housing is at the right temp is more important and make sure it goes in flat.

[arbezc]

Thanks for your response,
The bike is in Vancouver & I’m in Toronto but I took some measurements with a Vernier before leaving. Both the old bearing & the new bushing appear to have identical OD’s. Here’s what I measured:
Housing Bore 1.2580”
Partially Damaged Bore ≈1.2600”
Bearing & Bushing Dia. 1.2605”
Here’s an image of the damaged bearing, the burr is about 2-3 thousands high.



There appears to be about a 0.0025” interference fit. Also, I noted a about a .0005” reduction in bushing dia. When chilled in the fridge.

I’m leaning towards removing the burr, heating the housing to 200F & installing the bushing with a C-clamp. It may be more critical to keep the bearing square with the housing bore than worry about the exact temperature. Do you think some bearing retainer would help on the scored side?

Thanks again, Charles

For anyone concerned about clutch splines, mine were barely worn with 48,900 Km (30,500 miles). There was still plenty of lubrication on all the drive line splines. My pivot bearings were starting to show grooves & the slave cylinder had leaked & needed replacement. All in all, it’s been a painful process but worth it for future reliability.

[908/930]

I escaped from Toronto years ago.

.0025 is likely not accurate, likely less than .001 interference, Vernier are not reliably accurate, but as long as it was close to the old bearing OD. Best would probably be to scrape away at the raised area carefully, there are scraping tools but you can just grind a radius on the end of a small file, a rotary tool with a sanding drum to finish up, avoid touching undamaged area. Really do not think any bearing retainer is necessary, not like that is a high speed bearing or anything and nowhere to go. Also polish up the leading edge of the bearing with some 400grit make sure there is no left over aluminium stuck to it, some light oil prob wouldn't hurt.

In general it is not good idea to use retainer on the outer race of a bearing, not that it would matter in this case. I do think BMW really failed on using a bearing at that location, or really screwed up on the sizing, the surface area of a bushing can take that abuse better.

[arbezc]

Thanks, I’ll take your advice. Do you think a bit of transmission fluid would help the bearing slide into place?

I agree on the accuracy of Vernier calipers. For the hell of it I check the $16 Summit Tool version I picked-up in Vancouver against gauge blocks. Here’s what I found for the majority of readings:
Block / Vernier
0.2” 0.2005
0.5” 0.5015”
1.0” 1.0000”
2.0” 2.0000”
Most of the readings varied ±.0005”. There’s no way its accurate to 0.0001”

I went the other way, moved from Vancouver to TO, I now only visit. To my reckoning the motorcycling roads are 10x better in the west.

Thanks again

[908/930]

You have gauge blocks but no micrometer, WTH, LOL. The other snag with the vernier is unless it is calibrated the inside to outside measurement is rarely correct or precise, not saying it cant be done, but just not intended for that accuracy.

Just a light film on the bearing should not hurt, those bearings, or bushings now have a limited range of motion. Carefully compare the OD against the original bearings again, difference of a couple tenths could cause you problems. Just thinking that there is a possibility that your new bushing does not have the tight size tolerance of the original bearing. Keeping the bushing perpendicular to the bore will be the trick, some sort of installation alignment tool would help.

With the aluminium housing at 220 F that bearing should slip right in.

Yes better roads out here I think, though there are some nice ones in Northern Ont, just need to bring the visor cleaner for all the bugs.

[arbezc]

Yes, I noticed that the outer chamfered ends of the vernier's jaws were much less accurate than the inner flat section. I'm very happy the accuracy & repeatability of a cheap $100 set of analog micrometers after calibrating them with guage blocks.

I'll apply your suggestions & post the results in about 4 weeks when I return to Vancouver. This forum has been very helpful over the years.

Thanks again

[N41EF]

I heated the housing to about 200, put the race in the freezer, and used a socket and C Clamp to press it in, took effort but seated.

Once back together it took ALL of the play out of it.

[arbezc]

Did position the clamp across the whole yoke or just one side? I suppose it would help to keep the heat on until the bearing is seated.

Thanks, Charles