BCR Differences year by year

DGI · 09-08-2024, 09:42 AM

Going to look at a 2003 BCR on Tuesday.

Im wondering what the differences are between the 2003, 2004, and 2005 models.

Specifically here in the USA.

Did the 2003 come with the Laser exhaust?

I understand none of the BCRs came with ABS, is that valid?

Thanks for the help.

bobr11s · 09-09-2024, 01:41 AM

Hi , im not from USA so not sure about the lazer pipe . all our BCR came with van der linde pipes and no abs , no heated grips , and the wider rear wheel .
GOOD LUCK . BCR or not , they are great bikes . have had mine for 15 yrs . have bought other newer bikes , but cannot just let go of my bumblebee ... it works fine . when i want to ride it starts and does everything i want .

bobr11s · 09-09-2024, 02:07 AM

Hi , im not from USA so not sure about the lazer pipe . all our BCR came with van der linde pipes and no abs , no heated grips , and the wider rear wheel .
GOOD LUCK . BCR or not , they are great bikes . have had mine for 15 yrs . have bought other newer bikes , but cannot just let go of my bumblebee ... it works fine . when i want to ride it starts and does everything i want .

duckbubbles · 06:19 AM

As far as I can tell, the '03 and '04 are very similar in appearance although the '04 may have dual spark plugs. There were 200 '03 models and 300 '04's. The '05 has a different paint scheme and white/blue wheels. All should have wider rear wheels for 180/17 tires. They come either with or without ABS and heated grips can be added. US models came with the Lazer exhaust as far as I know although mine has a Remus complete system installed. All should have the shorter rear torque arm which raises the rear end. With the belly pan installed you cannot use the factory center stand. I removed the pan and use a lengthened center stand (removeable with two bolts) for storage. The standard center stand is too short with the raised suspension.

It should have a plate on the upper triple clamp proclaiming it as a Replika and the series number sequence. They originally came with a plastic scale model of the bike, a spare plate, letters documenting authenticity and sequence number and some race CD's. I was lucky to have all that with my purchase. If there is a question, any BMW dealer can verify authenticity by the VIN.

Any R1100S that has been cared for is an outstanding ride and should be considered as worthwhile to purchase. I've had my '03 BCR for 6 years and bought it with 10,000 miles on it from a guy that put 1500 miles on it in 8 years- always garage kept. I went through it completely when I bought it and it has been totally reliable in the 22,000 miles I have put on it since.

Plan on spending some cash to get it up to spec if it hasn't been done already. They are 20+ years old now and if the inside tank plumbing and wiring hasn't been updated it will be deteriorated badly. The sheathing on the wire loom will probably be falling off. Replace the brake lines with braided steel. If you ae handy working on bikes yourself it will save you a load of money.

Frank

mgp steve · 09-12-2024, 05:50 AM

I’ve had two ‘04 BCRs and an ‘04 R1100S. To help keep track of which BCR I’m referencing I’ll refer to the last two digits of the VIN # as they were only 41-VIN #s apart. VIN # 55 I bought used in FL in 2011 with 9,000 miles. #96 I bought in WI in 2016 with 2,500 miles. I believe I was third owner on both. I was able to get factory AIR sheets (from Holt BMW Athens OH) which give some info on build dates, warranty and appointments but no # of 300. Both bikes came through the same Chicago dealer in July of ‘04.

The ‘04 R1100S I’ll refer to it as the “S”. I bought S used (3rd owner) with 10,000 miles. It was the comfort version and had a Ztechnik pipe. It had the long torque arm and narrow rear wheel and no steering damper.

I have ridden this fleet of three to a total of 200,000 miles. I’ve had no major mechanical issues. The S’s forward FD seal began to weep at around 75,000 miles. At 83,000 miles on the S, 62,000 miles on # 55 and currently, 20,000 on # 96 the pivot bearings were/are original. I attribute this to regular retorquing. However, S being my first of this type did have pb’s that were loosening. Finding this play, doing the side-to-side check, led me to do my first retorque. With loose pb’s the bike turns faster as the rear wheel begins to castor. After tightening the pb’s, I was caught out at the end of my longish driveway when the bike didn’t turn as fast. I almost took out my mailbox.

All had ABS with servo-assisted (power), linked brakes. Nine brake bleeders. Both 55 and 96 had stock pipes, steering dampers, wide rear wheel, belly pan, CF valve cover protectors and short torque arms. 55 was the comfort version with clip ons above the top clamp and a convex (tall) windscreen and 96 was the standard configuration of clip ons below the top clamp and a concave windscreen. The S had been converted to the comfort configuration as it had the low clip ons moved to the top which requires an addition anti-rotation strap.

One of the BCRs did have its “# of 300” plate, the other didn’t. I spent much time querying BMW Motorrad and BMWNA attempting to find out what number of 300 96 was. Even though my two BCR’s were only 41-VIN numbers apart, BMW had no idea whatsoever how to determine the number.

I called, e-mailed and finally, early this year using BMW’s newest form of customer service, I “chatted” with Motorrad and NA. When I received the boilerplate “please rate our service” prompt I let them know that I felt the Corporation was lacking. The next day I got a call from Customer Service, for which I commend them but they still had no clue as to what # of 300 96 is.

Shortly thereafter I tried one more trick. I called one of the oldest BMW motorcycle dealers in the country and asked for the oldest parts person. I will call him “Bob” as much personal effort was put in on his part and I don’t want people calling him for help in this matter without my contacting him first to see if he wants to spend the hours doing the research that is required to determine the build number. I rewarded Bob for his help and would expect the same from anyone who he helps in this matter.

Bob figured out that he could see the MSRP of each VIN number of this S assembly line progression. All these builds were identified as S’s, no BCR distinction. The price of a BCR was around $3,000 more than an S. By searching the MSRP’s between 55 and 96 he was able to see four more identically high-price S’s. I feel confident his method positively gives 96 its correct build-number.

I found an Ohio data plate manufacturer who could reproduce the plaque.

‘04 on had twin spark ignition systems. The center coil is a coil in cap design. The original PN coil fails at about 20,000 miles. I went through two sets, one under warranty and one set out of pocket. Finally BMW fixed the problem around ‘08-‘09. I have moved these superseded coils to to 55 and then 96. The original coils I put on the bike I sold; I made it clear to the new owners that the coils would fail. I kept in touch with the those who bought my S and 55. Those old design coils both failed around 20K. A low mileage S/BCR will most likely have the old coil PN. Plan on a $300 upgrade.

Having no center stand, maintenance can be troublesome on the BCR. The BCR tool kit has no lug wrench! My guess is with no center stand the end user wasn’t expected remove the rear wheel. This and no QDs makes me think BMW was wanting to cut weight which is a bit ludicrous considering the heavy weight of the BCR.

BMW made (and may still be available) spools that attach at the belly pan rear-mounts (center stand mount on S’s). These spools receive Pit Bull rear stands. With a pit stand and a 2” PVC pipe placed vertically, capturing the Telelever’s lower knuckle, a small jack will lift the front wheel. Once “up”, the PVC needs to be clamped to the belly pan’s vertical inlet strut as the three-point lift is a bit wobbly. This configuration allows both wheels to be removed at the same time.

Wheel chocks work but limit the front or rear wheel maintenance options. An A frame or overhead hoist works great; loop-choking the top clamp (avoiding wiring and plumbing) is a very secure method. The hoist also is very helpful when removing the fuel tank especially when it’s full.

The tank is an irregularly-shaped aluminum saddle. Be careful not to ground the battery terminals which are” a few millimeters below the tank’s rear section. Having metal QDs is very helpful in this operation. It eliminates having to pinch the fuel supply and return lines (which in part of their lengths have internal hard lines that can be crushed by a pinch in the wrong place) but also provides a drain port for the fuel tank. QD’s are also shutoff valves so draining the tank requires another QD with a drain hose fitted. It has come in handy on the road when a fellow rider runs out of gas. The plastic QD works fine in this drain-only condition.

The tank-capacity is not great. Coupled with 40-ish mpg at speeds over 80 mph, 250-at speed-miles is the furthest extent of its range. I carry four one-liter fuel bottles in bicycle water bottle holders mounted on my saddlebags.

[Note: BCRs didn’t have QDs which is good because the plastic QDs BMW used in that era all fail. Someone might have added QDs to a BCR. Hopefully they are the upgraded steel variety.]

Accessing the battery takes about 40-minutes of disassembly/assembly if you are well versed in its R&R. Sometimes lifting the tank is required. If not ridden weekly a battery tender is a must. BMW makes a jump lug-kit which is cheap and easy to install. It places a positive and negative terminal in an easily accessed area on the starter cover and the left cylinder. Charging alligator clips or jumper cables work great here.

To access the battery the left and right main fairing must be removed. When removing the fairing-halves the first time be careful as the two lowest fasteners (one each side) are nearly invisibly-located. They are located behind the BMW roundel. They are accessed from the inside. A ball-end Allen wrench is useful here. I’ve done work on many S/BCRs. Many times I’ve found this mount broken. If broken on the left side and the bike placed on the side stand (always necessary on BCRs), the heat from the left head pipe will blister the blue checkerboard graphic on that side. There are six-fasteners per side (all the same Allen-size).
End part 1

mgp steve · 09-12-2024, 05:51 AM

Continued, part 2
The least durable and therefore shortest-lived part is the seat. Shorter riders seem to pinch the sides of the seat when putting feet down. Very aggressive side to side movement like that during track days, puts a lot of stress on the seat, breaking down the vinyl along its sides. It cracks. Additionally the seat is very uncomfortable. A Sergeant and Corbin seat were no better comfort-wise. They do seem to be of better-quality vinyl as do Polish and French aftermarket seat covers. When recovering the seat, do not attempt to remove the old cover as it is glued to the foam cushion and will crater the foam if removed.

I found the seat to be very uncomfortable during 100-mile days. I fabricated an adjustable air seat from a Therarest pillow, Camelback hose assembly and a blood pressure bulb. Mounted on top of the seat in a Gortex sleeve it is possible to quickly inflate, deflate or adjust the air pressure from the left handle bar. 700-mile days became possible.

10,000 miles seems to be the limit of the stock seat before the cracks begin.

A turn signal paddle wore out after 130,000 miles (I moved the hot grips from S to 55 and then to 96 so the same switch got lots of use). I averaged 13,000 miles per year from ‘06 to ‘16. The majority of the miles were a daily commute of 30-miles round trip in all kinds of weather, every day. I estimate at least 70,000 actuations of the turn signal paddles over ten years of commuting so one switch failure seems to confirm the switches to be reliable. Further, the switches are rebuildable (from donor clusters; no kit is made), so a new cluster is not required.

The alternator on the ABS, power brake versions have the highest output of the series. During cold weather I am able to run heated visor, heated jacket, heated pants, heated gloves, heated socks and heated seat with no issues. 30-miles per day (20 miles of that at interstate-speeds) kept the battery charged. Make sure to use at minimum a 19 amp hour battery. Unlimited-life alternator drive belts are available. I never had to change one.

On a weekly-ridden bike the battery has about a five- to six-year life. I was able to get almost 60,000 miles from brake pads and I’m a heavy braker. Being linked, all three brakes get a workout even if only using the front brake. Tires averaged about 6,000 miles on the rear and 10,000 miles on the front. Again with constant riding, the fuel lines, the brake fluid and clutch fluid seems to last forever.

If the bike is not ridden much and especially if it goes through large temperature and humidity swings, the fluids are going to have water condensation-problems. If the charcoal canister has been removed and the fuel tank is allowed to vent to atmosphere, tank condensation is accelerated. The fuel pump and filter are in the tank and the R&R is quite time consuming and/or expensive. This leads to it being neglected. Long dormant spells (no riding) with fuel in the tank leads to shellacking the pump and softening the in-tank hoses. This burns out pump motors and ruptures hoses.

The ABS pump module’s orifices can become clogged with flexible hose material and hygroscopic corrosion if the bike is not ridden.

All this adds up to some big bucks when having to replace brake and clutch lines, ABS module and fuel pump. Add to this two center coils, QDs, tires and battery and the rehab price is easily 4-5,000 dollars if the work is performed by a shop and not you.

With ABS the bike is a great all weather commuter. Conversely with permanent, all-time ABS, the rear wheel cannot be skidded, limiting track-performance. Two gear, clutch-dumping down shifts will get a short duration skid. The BCR weighs about 500-pounds which is very heavy for a track bike. Being a big twin makes for excellent torque which helps coming out of corners but still it will be waxed by a competently-ridden 600 cc Japenese, any brand sport bike. Supposedly the aftermarket pipes; Laser, Ztechnik etc. add a few horsepower. I think this is a negligible improvement but the dropping of nearly 20-pounds is an improvement.

With the aforementioned air seat the BCR is a great cross county bike as it accepts standard, factory bags (3-lid sizes) and aftermarket top boxes. The stock tank bag is small and goofy-looking. Many aftermarket tank bags work. One problem is that a large tank bag will depress the horn button when maneuvering lock to lock. A foam earplug under the horn paddle creates enough resistance to usually eliminate this. The paddle is still thumb-able for intentional honking.

The side stand is a bit short and having a foot pad in your pocket or tank bag is useful. Conversely a fully loaded bike; tank bag, top box, saddle bags and fuel bottles compresses the suspension enough that tipping over to the right on the side stand is a possibility.

The second weakest part is the suspension. While I had both BCRs at the same time, I upgraded 96 with a Wilbers suspension. 96 had only 3,000 miles on its stock suspension and therefore was “new”. The difference was remarkable. In fact it was so much better I was afraid I would forget which bike I was riding and attempt maneuvers that would catch me out on 55 so I added the same Wilber’s to it.

A Throttlemeister throttle lock is helpful as is an aftermarket throttle paddle for touring. The return spring isn’t as heavy as on large four cylinder carburetored bikes but still requires some effort to overcome.

The carbon fiber belly pan, which weighs just 20-ounces, is easily dinged. A front fender extender is a must. Last time I checked a belly pan was still available from BMW Germany for $3,200 so it pays to take care of it. When removing it find a way to suspend the bike so the side stand can be moved as needed to slip the pan down and left. It’s easier if the bike is lifted at least six inches off it front wheel (get a hoist).

There is no rear fender so the under seat pan, mufflers and rear shock get impacted and dirty. A hugger fender is very useful.

The tail light and brake light are typical of early 21st century design-they suck. Further with an aftermarket pipe, more heat is released in close proximity to the conventional incandescent dual-filament bulb. Vibration plus extra heat on hot days will abrade the lead contact buttons on the bulb enough to create an open. If either tail or brake light fails an instrument red light illuminates. If it’s the tail light that has failed, microprocessor logic takes over and sends continuous low power to the brake light filament creating a tail light while allowing more power with brake actuation. It will drive you nuts trying to figure out the warning light’s indication because the tail and brake light still”work”. The metal tangs in the socket can be bent to make contact but it’s a good idea to replace the bulb.

Hyperlites are made to add brake lights in the rear turn signal pods. Various light bars are available too. A brake flasher is a very good idea. I fabricate LED light systems and have made tail light, brake light and turn signal lights for both my air bag vest and helmet. I recommend a helmet light assembly for all weather, night commuting.

Motolights makes very durable front caliper driving lights (vertical separation from the head light to additional light is a must; additional lights in the horizontal plane-adjacent to the head light makes the bike appear to be a car and further away from the viewer than actual distance, increasing the likelihood of a collision).

Hope this helps.

DGI · 09-12-2024, 11:40 AM

@MPG Steve

I really thank you for your detailed write up. I'll be copying your post into my ownership log (posted on this forum recently) so I can reference your notes as needed.

Im going to be replacing my factory suspension (37K miles) with a set of take-off Ohlins I purchased from a forum member. At the same time I'll be ditching the factory exhaust/cats and installing a full set of Staintune pipes.

I've been told that I should also replace the clutch slave cylinder at this time as access will be greatly improved?

Will need to look at the procedure for retorquing the pivot bearings and check the part number for the coils on the bike per your recommendation.

Keep the suggestions coming!!

My ownership log here: https://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r1100s-r1200s-tech-forum/1166870-dgis-2003-bcr-90-a.html

mgp steve · 09-13-2024, 09:31 AM

DGI, Happy to help. I started writing out exhaust pipe and suspension-change procedures and realized I’d be writing another tome. We should probably take this off line and either email, text or talk about procedures. If you want to do it this way let me know the format you prefer. If talk, I’m in the eastern time zone.

If we communicate no more here are important points to observe:

The pipe change out requires a set of head pipe to head gaskets and a set of head pipe to exhaust pipe gaskets. Make sure your aftermarket pipe has the rubber bushings required to hang the pipe under the tail. Count turns when removing the O2-sensor and left, pre-twist that number of turns into the the sensor-harness before reinstallation to make sure the two-wire harness is not in tension.

The suspension change out has no consumables. DO NOT remove the Phillips screw in the front shock’s silver, adjuster knob. A two-flat black nut is jammed to a silver flanged nut below the adjuster knob. Separate the black nut from the silver nut. Remove the knob assembly (black nut stays with assembly) then spin off the silver flange nut. Do not invert the shock without reattaching the knob assembly as a push rod in the shock will fall out.

Steve

DGI · 09-13-2024, 12:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgp steve

DGI, Happy to help. I started writing out exhaust pipe and suspension-change procedures and realized I’d be writing another tome. We should probably take this off line and either email, text or talk about procedures. If you want to do it this way let me know the format you prefer. If talk, I’m in the eastern time zone.

If we communicate no more here are important points to observe:

The pipe change out requires a set of head pipe to head gaskets and a set of head pipe to exhaust pipe gaskets. Make sure your aftermarket pipe has the rubber bushings required to hang the pipe under the tail. Count turns when removing the O2-sensor and left, pre-twist that number of turns into the the sensor-harness before reinstallation to make sure the two-wire harness is not in tension.

The suspension change out has no consumables. DO NOT remove the Phillips screw in the front shock’s silver, adjuster knob. A two-flat black nut is jammed to a silver flanged nut below the adjuster knob. Separate the black nut from the silver nut. Remove the knob assembly (black nut stays with assembly) then spin off the silver flange nut. Do not invert the shock without reattaching the knob assembly as a push rod in the shock will fall out.

Steve

Im East Coast also. Sending you a PM with my email. Looking forward to chatting!