Oil blowing out of top of head onto fairing

[The Sea Dog]

I've searched the archives but couldn't find anything similar. Has anyone experienced their bike blowing oil out of the top of the cylinder head into the fairing ?

I've re-torqued the heads just in case, but I'm not convinced that it's that gaskets. The heads were recently fitted with helicoils for the header pipe studs as the old ones had corroded solidly in. I'm hoping that the machine shop have not drilled an oilway :-(

Anyone come across this before ?

Thanks
PAul


Keep it sticky side down

[roger albert]

Never heard of that, so far. Just where exactly on top of the heads? Near the header? Along the head/cylinder seam?
Or the head/valvecover seam? Bottom clean?

[The Sea Dog]

Hey Roger

From my quick initial inspection it's almost as if it's blowing out the gap in the middle of the cyclinder head cooling fins, just above the spark plug tunnel.

I'll look closer tomorrow.

Cheers
PAul

[shovelstrokeed]

Crunched or missing spark plug tube seal.
Remove valve cover, inspect, replace.

Ed

[EZ-RIDER]

Hey Sea Dog;


I agree with Ed, Spark plug tube seal!!!!!!!!!

[tominator]

Dealer servied mine and I had oil blowing out. That spark tube rubber slipped off while reinstalling the rocket cover, removed cover and installed fresh donut. Fixed the problem. Always make sure its intact before reassebling cover.

No biggie!

Tomas

[The Sea Dog]

Hi guys

Thanks for the replys, I've looked at the manual and don't see and exploded diag that has that showing, just to clarify would that sit in the recess at the base of the cylinder head ?


Cheers
PAul


Keep it sticky side down.

[shovelstrokeed]

Nope,
Remove the valve cover, its dead center between the pushrods and about 1.5" down. Black (rubber) torus that slips over a hollow pillar in the head.
Hang on a minute, I'll check a parts drawing, OK, its clearly pictured on page 11.18 of the 1100S repair manual.

Ed

[The Sea Dog]

Hi Ed

That's what I meant but didn't say very well I've ordered a couple of them up and I'll fit them when they arrive.

I did look at that page in the manual, but can only imagine I was too tired to spot that great BIG SEAL in the middle of the page, what a schmuck....... Thanks to all


Cheers
PAul


Keep it sticky side down

[MarkC]

Originally posted by The Sea Dog
Hi Ed

That's what I meant but didn't say very well I've ordered a couple of them up and I'll fit them when they arrive.

I did look at that page in the manual, but can only imagine I was too tired to spot that great BIG SEAL in the middle of the page, what a schmuck....... Thanks to all

One thing I have discovered is that some of the setting sin thr manual appear to be incorrect, for instance the clutch plate bolts it lists as 40nm, which sounded pretty high. I torqued up the first one and sure enough it sheared well before 40nm. Spoke to a specialist who suggested around 19/20nm, the same as the K1200. They seem pretty good on that.

Anyone else found that ?

Cheers
PAul


Keep it sticky side down

Hi Paul, I also just replaced my clutch on my S (clutch spline damage, but the job was originally to replace a leaking input shaft seal on the clutch side). My BMW repair CD (page 145) list 40Nm for the flywheel-to-crank bolts, then turn an additional 32 degrees. The clutch housing bolts (6 of them, think they are 10mm heads) are listed to be 12Nm.

I removed the flywheel (normally not needed during a clutch replacement) to replace the two rear main seals. I noticed a very slight weep, so I figured since I was in there I'd do that job too.

I got new bolts and noticed that the 6 new clutch housing bolts were a bit longer than the one's that came on my June 00' production S.

MarkC

[roger albert]

Those are only 6mm bodies. 40mm is way too high. I"ve never read the figs on that for an oilhead, but older, very similar late-airhed clutches use 6mm bolts too, and call for 20 nm. When reusing bolts, I generally torque to 22. Done it for years. Never a problem.