Painting system case covers

[pwillikers]

Has anyone tried color match painting their case covers. I'm not sure how they'd look with the textured finish, probably not so hot.

[Kam]

start here.

Painted Bags

[Mr. Deltoid]

I saw a guy at 2004 Daytona with bags coated in an unusual fashion. He took the bag lids to one of those truck accessory shops and had them spray that coarse bed liner coating on them.It looks very professional, and I assure you it will take a beating as well.They had several colors to chose from, but he used black.I'd hate to drag my leg over those bags wearing shorts.

[bikpaintr]

I've painted many of the BMW bag lids & have never had a failure. Flex aditive is not required or recommended as it affects gloss. If you just paint over the textured finish it will look like you shot it with a low gloss clear. Some of the factory painted lids had that look & it's not appealing. Either knock the texture down by wet sanding & then prime or apply several coats of epoxy primer & wet sand flat & reprime. The final result is worth the effort. Always use an epoxy primer over plastic for adhesion.

[Bob in Tucson]

Bikpaintr, have you any favorite brand of primer and paint?

[Moybin]

bikpaintr makes 'em purty! I just made mine a uniform black with Krylon Fusion. Yup, real hillbilly paint job, but I drag my boots on 'em all the time, so a quality paint job would be sort of shooting myself in the foot (pun intended).

You have a world of choices.

[Don Ro]

Originally posted by Mr. Deltoid
I saw a guy at 2004 Daytona with bags coated in an unusual fashion. He took the bag lids to one of those truck accessory shops and had them spray that coarse bed liner coating on them.It looks very professional, and I assure you it will take a beating as well.They had several colors to chose from, but he used black.I'd hate to drag my leg over those bags wearing shorts.

.
My lids are still looking good. 'Great tip, though. 'Have to remember that one.
Thanks.

[RBMann]

You can buy the stuff in a spray can at auto parts stores. It is really tough. I sprayed the inside of my bags and a metal tools box that ends up rattling around in my right bag. The coating is still holding up well.

RB

[bikpaintr]

Bikpaintr, have you any favorite brand of primer and paint?

I use only Glasurit Urethane top coats but I like the PPG DPLF Epoxy primers for sealing most surfaces. Be advised that an outside air breathing system is required when shooting Urethanes & true Epoxies as a charcoal respirator won't cut it. You might get around this by shooting outside if you don't have alot of bugs in your area.

[hdd3md]

bikpaintr-

thanks for the info.


have a question. how would you go about painting our fairings??

specifically if we wanted to change color, what 'steps' are needed.

i understand that this is not a cheap endeavor if you go to a shop, but can be done reasonably with good outcome if you practice first and then try...


for instance, i understand we must remove all the wax. (ie dawn, etc)

second, the current coat must be slightly scuffed up using a scotchbrite pad....

third, spray several layers of the base coat color and then clear if it is a color system that requires clear coat....

if one plans on adding decals, they should be shot with 1-2 coats of clear before applying then apply the outer clear coat to the piece...

is this more or less correct? what paints would you recommend for painting the body panels glossy colors??

thanks

[buckeyeRS]

Bikpaintr-
Any thoughts on DuPont epoxy primers? We use them here at work for various paint jobs - I work for a bicycle company- and they seem to work OK. I'm just worried about the compatibility between DP and Glasurit.
BTW, I grew up in your neck of the woods. Guilford CT is my "hometown"

Thanks,
John

[AndrewA]

hdd3md -
I can see that the wheels are turning - I'm on the same page.
I already painted my seat cover - It came out perfect.
The large fairing pices are going to be a chalange though.
I should have some interesting pictures soon....

[Bob in Tucson]

Originally posted by Moybin
with Krylon Fusion...
You have a world of choices.

Hence the reason for my request from someone with experience... I've got a spray rig, so it's just a matter of choosing a paint flavor.

And Krylon on an Uberbike? For shame! If someone from BMW reads this, they might send someone from the motherland to reclaim the beast as you are clearly unfit for ownership of a proper German motorcycle.

[dannyleo]

Painted and entire R100S when I was stationed in Germany. Gave it the "special" two-tone of baby blue and silver with several cans of Krylon I bought at the PX. I figured for the $900 purchase price, I could get away with whatever I wanted on that bike. Looked pretty nice, if I must say so myself.

[bikpaintr]

Any thoughts on DuPont epoxy primers?

I've never used any Dupont products but most true epoxies are pretty similar. As I mentioned I've used Glasurit Urethane over the PPG DPLF epoxies for 15+ years with no failures. As long as you allow the epoxy or urethane undercoats to cure properly & apply as directed they shouldn't have any effect on your topcoat. Most failures are caused by poor prep not incompatible materials.

how would you go about painting our fairings??

I seldom repaint mint panels as most of my work is restoration painting on bikes going back to the 1920s. You could get away with doing it as you describe as long as there were no rock chips or excessive orange peel. Normally on any used panels I would thoroughly clean the part, wet sand out any minor scratches/chips, scuff off all gloss using a red 3m scuff pad, reclean, seal with several coats of DPLF90, inspect the part for any defects and repair as necessary , wet sand with 600grt & shoot the top coat.
If using a base coat clear coat system you would apply enough color to fill the 600grt scratches, usually 2-3 coats allowing each coat to flash off before applying the next. If clearing over a light color (silver) you would want to smooth out any noticible defects (large dust nibs, grit, ect) by carefully wet sanding with 600/800 paper after the base coat has set up. Recoat the repaired area with color & then apply clear. I normally use 3 wet coats.
If you are applying decals & you want them cleared over apply at least 2 wet coats of clear over the basecoat or 2 wet coats of color if shooting a single stage. I would let the clear coat/topcoat set up for a minimum 24 hrs, wet sand the part with 800 grt or scuff it with one of the liquid sand products using a 3m grey or white pad, clean thoroughly, apply your decals & let them cure overnight(particularly water slides), apply clear until you get the desired effect. The first coat over the decal should be allowed to dry for 45-60 minutes before proceeding with several more light coats as modern Urethanes can attack decals. Finish with a wet coat to level things out. Make sure you apply enough clear to allow for wet sanding (2000grt) & buffing the part.

As to what paint you use that's up to you. If shooting a factory BMW color I'd go with the Glasurit as the correct colors are readily available. Dupont/PPG/ect make some nice paints & they are much cheaper then the premium european brands but they can not match the quality & pigment that you find in the Glasurit paints. Most of the american companys have a premium line which is sold overseas but these aren't actively promoted in the U.S.

[Moybin]

Bob In Tucson:

Now that my grubby fingers have been inside that bike it is anything but "proper".

[AndrewA]

bikpaintr - Thanks for the lesson!

[hdd3md]

thanks bikpaintr!

andrew - can't wait to see what you are cooking up!

drex

[Don Ro]

Was searching a bit recently...came across this page w/neato info/pics.
.
"Painted City Lids on Hard Bags"
.
Painted City Lids on Hard Bags
.

[hdd3md]

damn great thread!

i'm starting to get inspired.

does anyone have any suggestions as to a decent HVLP gun??

also, just how bad are the fumes?? do you need a respirator system?

any help would be great!

thanks