Laser Cat Elim - Proper Tool for Header Bolt?
 

I just got done installing a Laser cat eliminator, and was "barely" able to remove and install the left side/ front 5mm allen head bolt that connects the header pipe to the center pipe. The left side header is in the way and nearly precludes getting a regular allen wrench directly into the bolt head, but I got it done by using two different sizes and tapping them in each time.

What am I missing here? Is there an angled allen wrench or something else that would work better here? I had to torque it by feel as I don't think there's room to get a socket/allen wrench combination in there either.

Also, for anyone else doing this project, be aware that there's a bolted bracket holding the bottom of the cat in place (besides the mounting arms). I unnecessarily removed the stock cans, trying to get the cat to move (added at least an hour to the project).

Oh garsh, I hate that bolt! Like, what were they thinking.
Best I've figued out is an allen wrench, long than the kit tool (SEARS), and a pair of vise grips...

Perhaps its a form of German humor to give very detailed torque settings, and then make it so you can't even get a tool on it. I've probably negated my warranty...

OK, listen up; there's a type of allen wrench called a 'baldus' that has a knob-head on it (NO penis jokes, randy:) )which allows you to use the wrench at appx a 30 degree angle. that's what I use on those awkward mofos. I just replaced those shallow-depth OEM allens with good 'ole merikun grade 12.9 metric-thread stainless allens (from tacoma screw products, yet another segue into a dubious nonsequiter) with regular-depth heads, which makes this PITA job a bit easier, and the bolts shouldn't rust like the OEM ones....

Yep, make sure you replace 'em at every meal!

That's what I'm talking about! Found one under the "Wiha" brand:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1115237785.jpg

trll me how it works for ya.

Will do.

I'm such an idiot - I actually saw some of those round-ended allen wrenches at Sears and couldn't figure out what they were for!

and they also work for those fracking ( I LOVE that expletive, frack, from battlestar galactica) 4mm allen tupperware fastners under the nose. im-fracking-possible to get to without carving back the tupperware some with the die-grinder like I did :(
baldus; saved my bacon on many an occasion.

I would personally recommend semtex or any other industrial grade plastic explosive to get that little sucker out.

If you do go the ball ended hex route and you're able to get enough torque on it to turn the bolt, make sure you have the 'phone number of an engineering shop to drill out the remains of the sheared bolt from the mid section before you start the job;). Just got my VdL mid section back today with two freshly drilled and tapped bolt holes. Same thing happend with the previous Laser despite copious amounts of high temp grease applied to the bolts, prior to assembly. Probably something to do wth all the salt they throw on the UK roads in winter.

HTH

Paul

Ha! That's funny you should mention that--I just had my exhaust system loosened all up in order to fix a problem with that very bolt. Seems when I put my collector pipe on I started tightening bolts in the wrong order. I had a leak at the spot you are talking about. I had to loosen everything and start all over. Long story short I bought the bald-ball ended allen key/socket for that very bolt. It's the only one I use the baldy on, though, to save the life in it. I put a new bolt in everytime I have to mess with that one, though...that way I got a clean head to torque down. Those bolts should be the FIRST things you tighten up to make sure the collector gets a good seal on the headers. I do the bolt you're talking about then I jump over to the other header and do the forward bolt on that side...then I do the easy to get to ones last. Good old McMaster Carr's got the baldy key AND new bolts you can get, too. I didn't bother getting SS bolts, though 'cause I find them to be softer than the black bolts. Rust is inevitable going that way, though.

Other recommendation for stubborn bolts.
Get a can of freon (harder and harder in the US) used for chilling industrrial fastners. Contact cleaner can also be used in a pinch.
have your baldus allen ready:)
heat the pipe joint area with a heat gun
shoot the bolt head with the freon or CC
QUICKLY start to turn the allen; having wd40 or similar on the threads helps
the quick shot of cold shrinks the bolt while the rest of the area is still expanded-hot, 'unsticking' the threads...
this trick has saved me many times
but still do have the machine shop handy...

Where were you yesterday?? Because I had trouble lining up the right side initially, I finished off that side (front and back), before tightening the left side, which of course included the hardest bolt. At least I did tighten the center bolts before doing the cylinder bolts.

I haven't tested for leaks yet, but I just ran over to Sears and picked up a 5mm round-end allen wrench. Now I hope I DO have a leak so I can try my new tool. Bring it on!!

I also have to figure out how to route the O2 sensor wire so it doesn't melt on the pipe. There's not much under there to zip tie it away from the pipe - I'm thinking of wrapping that section in insulation.

I ran the O2 wire around under the torque arm frame connection and under the tranny, then it follows it's original path from there. I didn't have to tie it off, it has just enough slack to keep it from moving freely but away from hot metal, too.