2bros cat elim

evostevo · 09-08-2005, 04:31 PM

this is just an update of problems with the cat elim pipe from 2bros. no question, the pipe does not work without the hanger mounts. for those of you not familiar, the pipe cannot hang by the header mount alone, it will break free from the exhaust unless another mount is made at the clamp before the cans. i am going to propose to 2bros that they replace the cans for those so afflicted with their cat elim (probably won't go for it) AND make a proper pipe with mounts. on this list, some have said that they have changed the pipe, but they have not stopped dealers from selling the ****ed up design. let me know what you know so far.

Joe · Joe's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by evostevo
no question, the pipe does not work without the hanger mounts. for those of you not familiar, the pipe cannot hang by the header mount alone, it will break free from the exhaust unless another mount is made at the clamp before the cans.

Wow I'm glad no one told my last S with over 50k mi. on 2bros eliminator that it shouldn't work.

evostevo · 09-08-2005, 07:37 PM

that's amazing that your S ran 50K with that system. perhaps you had an other than stock cans that may have been stronger. i made it about 4k before the weld broke at the stock cans.

John Lyon · 09-09-2005, 09:30 AM

The "new" Laser system (a bracket around the pipe that bolts into an existing bolt location under the seat) would probably bolt right onto the 2Bro pipe also, assuming its uses a similar diameter pipe. Without "something" supporting the pipes in front of the cans, all of the stress is going onto the connection of the pipe going into the cans - might hold, might not.

JonyRR · 09-09-2005, 09:48 AM

As with everything else in life, one *usually* gets what one pays for. I popped for the spendy VanderLinde system; it's heavier than I thought it would be, but that weight is well-spent; substantial brackets, great finish and fit, an OEM-style mount where the cat usta be. If one has even rudimentary fabrication skills, a bracket should be no big deal....good luck with 2bros....in MY experience, they *usually* don't give a rat's...just my $.02

jduke · 09-09-2005, 12:22 PM

My 01 has had a TBR cat eliminator pipe and stock muffler on it for over 20,000 miles and no problems so far....(fingers crossed)

hwy1&17 · 09-09-2005, 06:02 PM

my twobro's pipe broke at the "Y" in 2500 miles, and on my RT the O2 sensor blew out also a 2bro's product.

jweicht · 09-10-2005, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by jduke
My 01 has had a TBR cat eliminator pipe and stock muffler on it for over 20,000 miles and no problems so far....(fingers crossed)

Mine too.

Moybin · 09-10-2005, 05:24 PM

I've got about 4k on mine and no problems. I think you will find that the stainless steel sheet used in the OEM cans is as thick or thicker than the aftermarket units. The welding is pretty much the standard Germanic "if some is enough too much is just right" kinda welding.

Moybin · 09-21-2005, 06:03 PM

Well, now it's time to stand up and take my public flogging. This morning it notices a little tink-tink-tink kind of sound as I backed OBSSSN out of it's stable. Started poking around, yup, the weld at the back of the stock can has failed.

Flogging to commence... now.

Okay, what kind of support did the rest of you build or buy? I can get the weld re-done, but need to do something so it doesn't just happen again.

Sadly I kind of like the extra "throatiness" of the system and it's STILL QUIETER THAN MOST H-D IRON!

John Lyon · 09-21-2005, 11:05 PM

Moybin-

FYI, this is what the "new" Laser bracket looks like, which could probably be fabricated although the steel stock has a "rib" pressed into it to give it more stength.

The top piece is a shallow "u" with the top bolting through an exiting hole under the seat (with longer replacement bolt). The bottom of the "u" bolts to a second piece that is bent at the upper end to match the angle of the "u" bracket, and screws to the stock cans (just above where the pipe connects) at the other end.

Dale Flowers · 09-22-2005, 09:56 AM

I've been running a 2 Bro elim. pipe for around 22K and recently noticed noises coming from the inside of the stock mufflers that sounds like some internal welds have broke loose. I fabricated a hanger which has removed the play/sag that probably contributed to the problem but I will still need to address the muffler issue. After seeing the amount of play/sag I would recommend anyone with this system finds a means of supporting their mufflers.

Moybin · 09-22-2005, 10:51 AM

John Lyon:

Thanks much! That's what I needed. I was (and still am) thinking about a rod hanger where the old CAT supports are, to the eliminator pipe. That might take some TIG welding, but I've got a guy who can do that.

Knowing that there is an existing hole in the seat frame makes things a lot better!

Dale Flowers · 09-22-2005, 12:47 PM

I took a different approach using readily available hardware. The turnbuckle allows adjustability.

Moybin · 09-22-2005, 07:21 PM

Dale Flowers

Have you noticed any backing off of the turnbuckle? I would think that a couple of jam nuts on the ends might be prudent. Your results?

Dale Flowers · 09-23-2005, 08:09 AM

I haven't seen any movement at all yet though it's only been a week. I don't expect any considering the tensile load and no forces trying to cause the turnbuckle to rotate. Still the jams nut is a good idea and easy enough to retro fit.

BTW, a simpler mount for the top would be a eye bolt.

Moybin · 09-24-2005, 01:39 PM

Dale Flowers:

Again, thanks for your post. I did use an eye bolt for the mount up through the seat frame. Got one off a longer turnbuckle (right hand thread part), and cut it off to length. Used some 1/4-20 nuts and washers. My turnbuckle was a little longer than yours, but still worked fine. I put a nylock nut on the right-hand threaded end to act as a lock nut.

The stud on the OEM muffler inlet neck is M5-0.8 in case anyone else is contemplating this mod. With all the parts in hand and going at a lazy man's pace it's a 10 minute job. Just take the luggage off to give yourself enough room to work, and remove the seat so you can remove the metric allen headed bolt and the springy metal clip thingy off the seat frame (I love talking technical).

Very rigid when tightened and locked in place.

Again, anyone who has or is going to put a 2 Brothers Cat Eliminator pipe on with the OEM cans is strongly encouraged to do this up front, before the weld cracks. I don't think I spent $6 US getting everything I needed.

Dale Flowers · 09-24-2005, 02:02 PM

Moybin,
Glad to be able to contribute. It's nice to come up with an easy solution to a problem once in a while isn't it.
I still have the internal rattling of the cans to deal with. Short of opening them up or driving sheet metal screws through I don't have a solution in mind. Anyone have an old muffler ass'y. they want to unload for real cheap?

Moybin · 09-24-2005, 02:59 PM

Dale

I'm going to leave my weld broken for now, the season is just about over and it's still not as noisy as most H-D iron (lead?).

I figure I've got at least 3 repair options: (1) high temp red RTV, leaving the joint flexible (and broken); (2) remove the cans and have the weld repaired; (3) replace with goodused OEM cans or aftermarket cans.

The fourth option that comes to mind is cracking the OEM cans open and doing all manner or major surgery. Just a matter or how much time, materials and $$$ I want to sink into this project.

I think Eron Flory did a major cannister vivisection, but I don't remember him ever posting the results. Hmmm... Perhaps zee Doktor vahs deshtroyed by der monstur...

Raven · 09-24-2005, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Joe
Wow I'm glad no one told my last S with over 50k mi. on 2bros eliminator that it shouldn't work.

Still got mine with the same amount of miles, not having this problem.