Problem with rear light - again.

[doberman]

Does anybody have this problem.
The brakelight works, but not the "normal"
light.
Front and indicators work fine.
The bulb is OK. I changed it just in case.

Can anybody help.

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Safe Riding

Bent

[dfaber]

I bet your license plate light is out as well. If you don't have one, check your front "parking" lamp by turning the key all the way counter-clockwise. If it fails to light, you have a blown fuse. The tail lamp is the only rearward illumination on my bike, so I check it regularly.

[GLDelivery]

hey, mine does the same thing, brake lite is fine, running lite craps out frequently. I fix it by turning off motor and restarting, then all is well again. I've replaced bulbs, checked voltages, ground connections, cleaned contacts etc...I ride rain or shine, thought that might affect it..no real fix yet..

[doberman]

It turned out to be faulty ignition lock.
It is being replaced as we speak (or write).
Thanks for your input.

------------------
Safe Riding

Bent

[doberman]

There is a general problem with the ignition switch my mechanic told me.
When you turn the handlebar from side to side, the wire going into the ignition switch will eventually break.
The problem can be somewhat solved if you use a strip to fasten the wire, so that when you move the handlebar, it wont move in the switch.

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[tvrla]

Thanks Doberman! That's valuable data. I'll have to go take a look.

[Flatbutt1]

My tail , tag and parking lites are out. Can you tell me which fuse it is? O'wise how can I test the ignition switch to see if it is the problem? Guess I'd rather take off the bodywork than do a new switch but just in case... is it easier to test the switch before taking off the panels?

[Flatbutt1]

OK found out the its #2 fuse in the left side box, but the question for the ign switch still stands please.

[ExarKunONe]

An ignition switch wire broke on my bike. Unfortunatly it wasnt just the one for the lights keep an eye on the wires at teh base of the switch!

[Flatbutt1]

Originally posted by Flatbutt1
OK found out the its #2 fuse in the left side box,

Uh...the CD is a little unclear, is the LEFT as you're on the bike or not?

whilke I'm at it...what do you think would cause this fuse to go? its a simple enuf circuit...

[Moybin]

I had the broken wire problem soon after buying my (used) S. Fixed it, was not impressed with German wiring, and used heat shrink tubing and Scotch77 electrical tape to build up the jacket around the wire loom in that area (close to steering head). All in an effort to distribute the twisting stress along the length of the wire run and not have it break again. 3k miles and so far so good.

[Flatbutt1]

OK the fuses keep blowing, does that mean the ign switch is shorting out?

do I have to remove the top clamp to fix this?

[Moybin]

FB:

My experience has been with the broken wire thingy. But you don't have to remove the top clamp. You have to drill out the plug in the side of the lock mehanism, then the ignition switch will drop straight down.

Be ready to collect little parts if the switch itself has come apart. I'm guessing (really guessing) that there might be a bit of worn metal from the switch internals that is giving you a short to ground inside the switch, and that is blowing your fuses.

Second guess is that you have at least 1 broken wire in the wire loom anywhere from 6 to 12 inches from the switch. The broken wire is making contact with ground, either in the wire loom or directly to the frame of the bike. Remember, the Krauts don't use the frame as a formal ground path, they wire that crappy 18 gage stuff in a medium green plastic jacket everywhere for that purpose.

The ignition switch also switches on/off the ground run. I think it's a measure to make hot wiring the bike more difficult, but that's just another guess.

New switch is about $60 (?? last year's price) from Chicago BMW. I've thought about getting one and stashing it in my spare parts bin against the day my repairs go South. Why wait for one, or worse, find out in a couple of years that it has to come for Der Fadderlund, or worse yet, that they don't exist any more?

[Flatbutt1]

Sure looks like a bad switch. I couldn't find any worn or broken wires . I'm not up to the task of drilling out the pin given my one handed limits. So guess I'm off to the dealer man,right smack in the middle of the sesaon. well maybe if I get real lucky I can drop her off this week and it'll be fixed when I get back from Laguna.

[Flatbutt1]

BTW, I CAN keep riding like this ...right?

[ErricZ]

Only during the day.

Damn dude, wish I could help, but I'm doing MOA VT next w/e ...

(Moyb, isn't the "common earth" brown in color?)

[Moybin]

Originally posted by ErricZ
[B ... (Moyb, isn't the "common earth" brown in color?) [/B]

That is correct. I have done too much work on Dutch equipment where they use a light green for ground. Der Chermanz uze der brown color fer der grount.

[ErricZ]

Mein Porsche vaz de zame vay.

[Flatbutt1]

I couldn't paste the pic in but A&S shows the light switch as an insert that fits into the bottom of the key switch. part number 61 32 2 306 361. So that be what I need?

[Flatbutt1]

can anyone provide the schematic for fuse 2 controlling the Tail/Tag/Parking light please?

I need to get knee deep in there.