How-to replace access. outlet fuse?
 

http://www.espressogallery.com/equip...elox34_big.GIF
Got link?
Got pics?
Got advice?

Using my outlet to try and brew a cup of espresso turned out to be a stupid idea after all!

-Eff

"Instrument panel, horn, power socket...15 amps"

So I should double check that my horn and panel are out as well, correct?

New to 1100S fuses,
-Eff

wish I could help ya bud, I got nuthin'

lol

Well, my panel lights and horn both work. Maybe there's a fuse in the 24inch BMW-to-cigarette adapter I was using.

Off to see if my vest warms up from the outlet.

-Eff

OT
if you really want to run an espresso maker off your scoot, use 10 gauge wire off the batt with it's own 30 amp fuse or you wirin' harness will be like.....melted man, if the fuze didn't go
what's the amperage draw of that there koffeepot?.

It's a lil'guy. A travel one. Not like a big restuarant one. lol There's a sticker on the cord that read 6 amp. I mean, that should be a problem, right? (Ran it with the engine off.)

-Eff

The outlet fuse is the same as the clock. If the clock still works then your problem is not the fuse. I have seen the plug/wires on the back of the acc. plug (the one mounted by the passenger peg) corrode in two... The tire throws road grime and rain on this connection... just something else you might check Eff.

Going outside to check right now.

brb

-Eff

YIPPEE!!!

So, I have a 24 inch BMW-to-ciggie that runs from my outlet to my egg tankbag. Then I have a splitter that turns it into two ciggies (so I can run both a X50 and my GPS V) inside the egg. That splitter (cheapo from PepBoys) has a 5 amp fuse in it, which blew after about a minute of running the 6 amp espresso maker.

I think I am safe just going directly from the 24 inch adapter since the fuse seems to be a full 9 amp higher than the maker.

My eventual goal is to be able to have the Bob's rest locked, legs up on highway pegs, have a big open road ahead of me, loosen the Arai and raise it to the top of my head...say up in Maine along the coast or some sh_t and then flip the tankbag lid, wait 4 minutes, and sip away at espresso brewed on my 1100S at 70 mph.

Wait a minute, those cofee grinds are gonna get blown all over the place. Nevermind. :confused: I'm living a dream.

-Eff

PS Clock was working.

Ding fries are done.... :)

You need a Nolan flip, duh! :)

D-oh! :D

Well, I just went out and tried again. Wasn't enough juice, it appeared. The light on the converter was sorta pulsating not glowing steady.

I gave up after 3 minutes as it wasn't really getting hot.

Then I realized my ac/dc convertor is 70 watts and the device is 110-120 watts. The plot thickens.

-Eff

hmmm...pulling a steady 6 amps outta that battery...make sure she's running:)

On that note, at what RPM is the charging system doing it's thing? 2,500RM?

It take 4 full minutes to make the espresso inside my house. I wouldn't want to idle the engine that long (cause of the heat production) but maybe a minute would take the edge off the battery drainage.

Then there's always the bump-start.

-Eff

I'm going to keep an open mind and see where this is going.
But this thread has me absolutely bam-boozeled.

one reason why BMW has an alternator with brushes is that it puts out more juice at a lower RPM than a permanent-magnet alternator (called 'break-even') where the charging system is supplying as much juice as the bike pulls out of the battery
breakeven on these is something around 2500 or so, as opposed to a typical japsikkle at roughly 4-5K RPM.
Still, pulling a steady 6 amp load over a period of time could tax those small gauge wires BMW loves so much; even the acc socvket has (what I consider) a small gauge. I've hacked and modded my OEM harness extensively and run heavier gauge wire on critical runs that handle a lot of amperage. My tankbag has a dedicated 10-gauge wire set (you MUST run a ground-side wire of the same gauge, at least, as the hot side) for the RD, GPS, and most importantly, gerbing suit and 'lectronic thermostat.
One thing I've found is that the BMW ground side starp for the batt needs to be yanked, the end cleaned that bolts to the engine, and that connection tightened guuud. It's your ground side and always ignored. Have an adaquate ground plane or be frustrated forever....
and low or fluctuating voltage can play hob with Mr. Motronic....

You are making things too difficult......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1142376139.jpg

I got your AC-to-DC converter in a cube next to mine in Downtown Seattle. His name is Michelle and heshe's waiting to perform your 'conversion':)

LOL

You guys are complete turkeys.

LOL

-Eff

On the 2004 'S' with wizzy brakes, they merged the two fuse boxes into one. Here is the fuse layout:
http://home.jtan.com/~wayne/R1100S%20Fuses.pdf