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Tried doing the valve adjustment with the rubber out of the inspection window---worked fine till it was time to reinstall the rubber grommet. GRRRRR. Have two of them floating around in the flywheel clutch housing now. Sure they are digestable.

I found that with the spark plugs out, insert a long screwdriver in the spark plug holes. put the bike in third gear and slowly rotate the rear wheel in the direction of travel finds TDC easily. if the valves are tight you are between the exhaust and intake stroke and ya need another 360 degrees of crank revolution.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:36 PM
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OK....simply put

1. This is a boxer, so both pistons go out to TDC at the same time. However, when one is TDC on the compression stroke, the other is TDC on the exhaust stroke. COmpression stroke means all the valves are closed so you can adjust them. Exhaust stroke means the exhaust valves are open so you can't adjust them...they're under tension. So....
2. Find TDC with the sparkplugs out or with the arrow on the flywheel....I use both. Wiggle the valves. If they wiggle, these are the ones to adjust. The others will be TDC on the exhaust stroke which means the exhaust valves are open so obviously you can't adjust them....they won't move. After adjusting the ones that have a bit of play....
3. Roll the engine one complete revolution until the mark on the flywheel comes around again. Now....the valves you just adjusted will be too tight cos this cylinder is on the exhaust stroke. So now it's time to adjust the valves on the OTHER cylinder cos it's now on the compression stroke and therefore the valves are closed tight and the rockers are loose and these you can now adjust.
4. I use 6th gear to bump the engine around which goes easily cos the sparkplugs are out and you're only working against the valve springs.
5. Use two feeler guages for each set of valves.
6. A bit of WD-40 on that little rubber plug will make it easier to put it back in. Go slow and work around the periphery cos if you just push it in the middle it'll plop in the hole.
Jay...if you get stuck and aren't sure...send me a pm at
rjhancock2@cox.net. Maybe you'll be lucky and not have a bent or burned valve. You probably didn't bend one unless you heard some god-awful banging which would have been the valves smacking the pistons. If you did that....time for new valves and maybe more. A compression check will tell if you have a burned valve but the clearances have to be right first.
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:24 AM
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Many turns on the adjuster was your engine telling you something was not right. No play before adjusting would indicate a dropping seat or stretched valve stem.
Mine didn't want to turn very easily with the back wheel, plugs out. Going through the front cover was the easy way. Plus there hadn't been any bike parts in the kitchen sink for a while.
TDC marking was different than the manual BTW.
Jim
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Old 03-24-2006, 03:29 AM
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Waow
I didn't expect to get as so many answers. Thank you so much guys for your tips.
Time for me to try this out.

Thanks again,

Cheers,

Jay
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Old 03-24-2006, 09:00 AM
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Ok, did the job yesterday evening.
That arrow trick is really a good one : there's no way the SOT marks could have helped as much as the arrows have. As the arrow was facing me, the SOT plate was already passed ...
I could check both sides and though the left was pretty good (it's the side were the rockers were loose at TDC the first time), the right was badly adjusted.
The adjsuting screw (all 4) were way to high (far top end in fact) and caused way too much play for the rockers. The conclusion is :
- there was no way the rockers could push the valves far enough to cause damage.
- I could find were the tick-ticking was coming from. These high amounts of play on both inlet and exhaust rockers on the right side caused them to tap back and forth at each TDC.
Now all valves are correctly adjusted thanks to you all. I went to ride the bike this morning and did around 80 km. Iddle is good, I even feel like I have less vibrations at some revs.

Thanks again,

Jay
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2009 Triumph Speed Triple
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2001 BMW R1100S - track bike project
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:30 AM
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Great! Now go and do the TB sync.
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Old 03-25-2006, 09:39 AM
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Its amazing how much this board can help a distressed Pelican ! That little bitty mark on that little sprocket saves a lot of time.
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Old 03-25-2006, 10:53 AM
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Just to present my experiences, I've never bothered pulling anything to find TDC - just stick a soda straw in the spark plug hole and use the rear wheel with the tranny in 6th to bump it around to "near TDC" - both valves are closed roughly 90 degrees either side of TDC, so I don't see much need to get it exact.

And as per the BMW shop manual, I don't even bother to use two feeler gauges - the length of the rocker arm pivot is so long, I don't think there is significant coupling from one valve clearance to the other in each pair. This was a big deal on the original Honda V4's with forked rockers, but their rocker pivots were about 2/3rds shorter than the BMW's.

45K on mine and it sounds and runs about like I bought it new. These are tractor motors. YMMV.

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Old 03-25-2006, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jpramondon
Ok, did the job yesterday evening.
That arrow trick is really a good one : there's no way the SOT marks could have helped as much as the arrows have. As the arrow was facing me, the SOT plate was already passed ...
I could check both sides and though the left was pretty good (it's the side were the rockers were loose at TDC the first time), the right was badly adjusted.
The adjsuting screw (all 4) were way to high (far top end in fact) and caused way too much play for the rockers. The conclusion is :
- there was no way the rockers could push the valves far enough to cause damage.
- I could find were the tick-ticking was coming from. These high amounts of play on both inlet and exhaust rockers on the right side caused them to tap back and forth at each TDC.
Now all valves are correctly adjusted thanks to you all. I went to ride the bike this morning and did around 80 km. Iddle is good, I even feel like I have less vibrations at some revs.

Thanks again,

Jay
Sounds like you got it. Did you balance the throttle bodies too?
Old 03-26-2006, 03:56 AM
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Info from the Repair Manual



Right Side




Left Side
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Old 03-26-2006, 04:58 AM
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I've never had that little cover off.....learn something new everyday. Not sure you need to be that precise for setting valves, but it's just another interesting thing about these engines.
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Old 03-26-2006, 05:16 AM
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cam sprocket cover doesn't need to be removed for a valve adj- you can see the arrows just fine with removal of valve covers only.
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Old 03-26-2006, 05:19 AM
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OK...I'll look for 'em next time.
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Old 03-26-2006, 05:23 AM
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bikerfish, hit the nail on the head . Its much easier too, than sticking a stick or pencil in the spark plug hole. With the valve covers off , just rotate until the mark comes up , just like the picture shows that was posted by ckcarr. This isn't rocket science here and this method saves you alot of time. You don't have to mess with that damn rubber inspection plug. Or pull the front cover off just rotate over using the rear wheel in high gear. Its a piece of cake.
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SCOTTinNJ
Sounds like you got it. Did you balance the throttle bodies too?
No unfortunaltly, I'm not equiped fot that. And I bet the synch checker would cost me an eye.
I'll probably have it done by my local dealer. I guess that won't make him happy, 'cause that's the only thing I got him to do... :/
Do I really have to do if it has already been done 4000km ago ? (I know hat you think : you've changed your valve clearance in then meantime so ...)

Jay
Old 03-26-2006, 08:59 AM
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must you do a TB now? no. is it a delight to be able to do it whenever you want once you own the tools? you bet. and 2 TBsyncs by the dealer will pay for the purchase of a good unit. all that is really needed is a vacuum manometer (carb stix). i just like the simplicity and no fuss operation of the TwinMax unit. my feeling is to give the dealer $ for the jobs you REALLY can't do- but a TB sync is among the easiest; along with vavle adj, fluid changes, filter changes and alt belt.
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bikerfish1100
must you do a TB now? no. is it a delight to be able to do it whenever you want once you own the tools? you bet. and 2 TBsyncs by the dealer will pay for the purchase of a good unit. all that is really needed is a vacuum manometer (carb stix). i just like the simplicity and no fuss operation of the TwinMax unit. my feeling is to give the dealer $ for the jobs you REALLY can't do- but a TB sync is among the easiest; along with vavle adj, fluid changes, filter changes and alt belt.
Damn !! Now I learn I could have changed my worn alternator belt my self ... :/
I'll look for that Twinmax unit, since it's probably what a TB synch would cost me if done by dealer. You're right ... again ...

Jay
Old 03-26-2006, 09:38 AM
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Was checking the valve clearances on my bike today, and snapped a pic of the cam gear. It is definitely visible with just the valve cover off.



I usually set the intake valves when the exh valves start to open & set the exh valves when the int valves start to close.
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Old 03-26-2006, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jpramondon
Damn !! Now I learn I could have changed my worn alternator belt my self ... :/
I'll look for that Twinmax unit, since it's probably what a TB synch would cost me if done by dealer. You're right ... again ...

Jay
The opportunity to inspect the alternator belt is a good reason to roll the engine from the front of the crackshaft with a 17mm socket. Mine was on it's last legs and yet wasn't noisy at all.

Twinmax is nice unit (I guess, I've never handled one). I built the slack tube manometer from about 20 feet of clear vinyl tube, a 2x4, screwed a spare yard stick to the 2x4, and filled it Dexron ATF. I had everything just laying around except the vinyl tube, and that was like 10 cents a foot.

It's VERY NICE to know about the timing arrows. Thanks Forum!!!
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Old 03-26-2006, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Moybin
The opportunity to inspect the alternator belt is a good reason to roll the engine from the front of the crackshaft with a 17mm socket.
Typo- it's actually a 16mm.
Old 03-26-2006, 11:23 AM
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Old 03-26-2006, 11:23 AM
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