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johnnydanger's Avatar
 
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That first sentence should read "All 1.6x crop sensor Canons...". The 1-series 1.3x crop bodies do not support EF-S.

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Old 06-04-2007, 04:05 PM
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Hey Johnny,

Thanks for that link.

That's the camera I've got but mine is just labeled a bit differently, where the one on the link says 300D mine says Rebel. Don't want to sound too dumb but when I got it it didn't come with a box or owners manual .. I think it must have fallen off a truck or something

That lens sounds great, I'll look out for a deal .. you wouldn't by any chance have one hanging around that you're not using
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:12 PM
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Nope, I shoot a 5D so no EF-S for me (full frame). I know the place to look though:

The Fredmiranda.com Buy & Sell board
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/board/10/

One sold recently for $610. You're not likely to find one much cheaper than that. More modern Canon lenses hold their value really well, as do most any new style lense. The Buy & Sell is really active and deals are to be had though. Keep an eye out.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:19 PM
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Wonder what I can get for the EF 20-35 I have.

I just googled the Canon EF-S 10-20 and found a place selling it for $639 new but saying the lens is imported. Does that mean anything special like it;s a grey market?
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2008 KTM 950 Super Enduro long distance gravel road and general hooligan bike.
Now an R11GS and a 650 Dakar
Old 06-04-2007, 04:24 PM
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It means no U.S. warranty service. You can purchase the Mack Camera warranty for it though (B&H Photo sells them) and that would cover it and for a longer period of time too. But adding the warranty would bring the cost to around the price of a U.S. spec on from B&H. I'd just buy it from them for full price personally. B&H has exceptional service (if it doesn't work or back focuses or something you call them and send it back and they get you a new one pronto and cover the shipping for the replacement lense), and good prices.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:38 PM
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If Dan's in Canada, wouldn't imported be okay? Different purchasing strategy for those outside the US. Best to buy from an authorized dealer to avoid warranty issues. I checked pricegrabber.com, and personally would go with The Imaging World, where I got most of my Nikon stuff.

John- what about issues using the 10mm focal length indoors, like distortion and lighting/flash?
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:46 PM
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Oh, don't know about Canon warranties on imported lense when you're in Canada.

As far as lighting... long exposures shot from a good tripod with good natural light is easiest and often works well. If you have the luxury or 2 or 3 or 10 flashes you can do some great stuff Generally you'd want to shoot higher f-stop settings for a crisper image and better quality (probably around f8). This will require LONG exposures though.

The 10-22 does distort a little but not bad. The key thing when shooting that wide is to have the camera perfectly parallel to the floor so that the wall verticals don't tilt in or out. You can get some really extreme perspective skewing with a lense that wide if you don't use it right.

Be prepared for a bit of chromatic abberation off-center. Just about all lenses that wide will get some separation in the corners (a little bit of color fringing).

Just takes some experimenting though and Dan will be fine, I'm sure.
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Old 06-04-2007, 04:55 PM
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Good question Steve. I want to be able to take pics of renovation projects and but them on my web site. Mostly artificial light like in bathrooms probably some recessed lights in the ceiling and around the vanity.
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:00 PM
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Sounds good! Don't forget to start a "Show your projects" thread...
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:15 PM
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And now for something completely off topic!

Canon Lens Manufacturing Process
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:56 PM
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If you start to add artificial light to interiors (flashes) keep in mind that a strobe unit is usually ~5,000k (white like the sun) and flourescents are greenish, some energy efficient lights are purplish, etc. Using gels taped to the fronts of your flashes can make the flash light color the same as the interior light color which allows for nice mixing of the two light sources.

As a good place to start though I'd say do the tripod / environmental light thing and see how it works for you.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:43 PM
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oh, and bounced flash or off-camera remote flashes are ALWAYS preferred to direct on-camera flash. Direct flash is unnatural and almost always looks like ass, whereas bouncing a flash off the ceiling/wall behind you can create a nice soft fill for the room.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:44 PM
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Oh, one more thing. Make sure to checkout this website if you want to do any lighting work:

http://www.strobist.com/

The Lighting 101 section will make you a light pro in no time.
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:46 PM
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Good info on that site .. I'll be reading for a while.

Do you think a flash from my old Pentax film camera will work ... there was something about flashes and digital camera's frying each other?
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Old 06-05-2007, 05:22 AM
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Yeah, it probably won't work. Unless it's a modern flash it would fry the camera. As far as affordable flashes go, the new Vivitar 285 HV is your best bet for an affordable flash. Otherwise the Canon 430EX would be great.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:42 AM
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"And he's peeling off those dollar bills
Slapping them down
One hundred, two hundred ..."

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Old 06-05-2007, 11:34 AM
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John- do you think a modern flash will provide adequate coverage for an indoor shot at 10mm? I would think it would be very uneven.
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Old 06-05-2007, 11:37 AM
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The Canon 430EX and 580EX have a 'wide angle' plate that flips out and covers the flash which makes it much wider angle (good to 16mm equiv. length). I think the Vivtar 285HV has a wide angle attachment piece too. But really I think a single flash usually works best for interiors when artfully bounced which makes a wide angle plate or whatever moot. It's all about making the light source as large as possible to get the softest shadows / most even lighting throughout. So if you bounce and get a 10' wide light spot on a back wall/ceiling.... well that's big!
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Old 06-05-2007, 11:53 AM
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So, say in a kitchen shot it would be best to aim the flash up onto the ceiling or aim it backwards .. not many places to take the pic from and not much flat wall space.

Yea, I'm feeling a serious pain in my wallet all of a sudden
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Now an R11GS and a 650 Dakar
Old 06-05-2007, 02:33 PM
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Yeah, experimenting with bouncing the flash from a natural angle can give great results. You just need to experiment. Often times bouncing the flash from above a window or other natural light source gives you similar lighting to the natural ambient just brighter and with more fill. Lots of ways to do it, but the whole point of bouncing light is to make it look more natural and not like a flash so pay attention to where light comes from naturally and bounce from that location if possible. Remember that bouncing off of colored walls will 'tint' the light, which can be good or bad.

I am always swiveling the flash to different directions based on where I want the light to come from, but usually it up and tilted to a 30-45 degree angle. Light often looks most natural coming from above and to an angle.

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Old 06-05-2007, 02:44 PM
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