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R1200s Ohlins Setup

Looking for some guidance to set up the Ohlins on a new R1200s for a 215 pound rider. It appears that the canister may interfere with the front preload adjustment. If the canister can be removed or relocated, are there instructions available?

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Old 06-06-2007, 03:40 PM
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this is working for me at a riding weight of 195.


Static sag should be:

Rear: 10-20mm
Front: 15-30mm

Total sag:

Rear: 30-40mm
Front: 28-38mm



Damping Settings:


Front :

Íhlins front shock comes standard with a spring length of 184 mm (7.24 inch): set to 180 mm (7.09 inch). Set rebound: turn the wheel at the bottom all to the right, then 16 clicks back.

Note: when you turn a clicker all the way in...and bury that sucker so it won't turn anymore...the first turn back out...the VERY FIRST click you feel is "zero". the next click is "one."

Rear :

Íhlins rear shock comes standard with a spring length of 158 mm (6.22 inch): set to 155 mm (6.10 inch). Set rebound: turn the little wheel at the bottom all to the right, then 32 clicks back.


As for the canister.....ditch it; it will make room for the remote reservoir shock you'll put in there later.
Old 06-06-2007, 06:51 PM
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XORJO, thanks for the precise details on the shock setup. We'll try this as a base setting and let you know how it works.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:53 PM
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no sweat...you probably already know that the stock spring on those shocks will be near the upper limit at a rider weight of 215. when the shocks go, you should have a different spring rate installed.
Old 06-07-2007, 03:44 AM
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Fairly good advice. I'd not let the rear sag below 35mmm total though. 40mm rear sag will see her steering slowly and pushing the front end.

Similarly, a front sag anywhere near as low as 28mm will cause the same. 34-40 is a much better and safer target.
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Old 06-07-2007, 04:56 AM
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agreed....the sag settings are taken from Ohlins. me? i've got an Evo torque arm with all the shims in and sag set pretty tight. at 195 i think i'm at the limit of the springs. when they wear out, i'm ditching the emulsion front shock and hopefully, will be back down to 185 dressed. yea, yea......
Old 06-11-2007, 05:31 AM
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<
Íhlins rear shock comes standard with a spring length of 158 mm (6.22 inch): set to 155 mm (6.10 inch). Set rebound: turn the little wheel at the bottom all to the right, then 32 clicks back.>>

32 clicks OUT for rebound?!? I can NOT imagine that, considering that the factory setting is 16 clicks.

Anyone?
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Old 06-11-2007, 01:03 PM
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yikes.
didn't even notice the damping settings (only paid attention to the sag)

32 out on the rear is indeed a lot. Factory setting isn't bad.
If anything, I've had to go in a click or two to keep the rear from popping up too quickly.
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Old 06-11-2007, 02:20 PM
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what can i say, at 195lbs, this setting works for me
Old 06-12-2007, 07:16 PM
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Just don't make a mistake between what feels good to you, and what works. Barring a really strange combination of tolerance stack, that rebound setting is almost assuredly a poor one compromising both traction and weight transfer. If you're riding way below the bike's limit, it will cause you no problem. But if the pace gets significant, it could bite you pretty good. Be careful!

(says the guy who had a pretty quick get off followed by a slide and then some aerial work in the last week)

( ( also caused partially by a poor rebound and preload choice ) ) grrrrrrr
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Old 06-12-2007, 07:25 PM
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You need to PM Bob Hancock. He just got a tutorial from the Ohlins rep at the Biltmore and I think he's already removed the cannister. He should be back on the PP site tomorrow or the next.
Old 06-12-2007, 08:08 PM
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rog,

nothing personal, but what's your riding weight? this setting works for non-track canyon rides for me. even the bumpiest of on & off camber tight corners with posted limits of 20 can be taken at 60 with no worries. perhaps it is the minimal sag combined with the max shims on the torque arm....
Old 06-16-2007, 06:51 AM
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No Problem

I'm about 150lb, maybe 20 more with all gear.
But that is not the issue here. There are geometries that work well, and others less well. Once you've adjusted for sag, rider weight is largely out of the occasion. Rider weight affects how much adjustment is needed to GET to the correct sag, but not the correct sag itself. Note also that this isn't based on just me or my preferences, but in setting up a LOT of bikes. Probably a bit over 200 in the last year.

More importantly, regardless of rider weight, you need at least a certain amount of rebound damping. W/o that, the rear feels plush, but isn't well controlled, and you can't read rear traction.
On every Íhlins I've seen, 32 out would be not only off, but ridiculously so. There's a fair amount of variance in how the shock is assembled and just how many clicks you'll need, but the number you're reporting, based on doing hundreds and hundreds of dampers, seems pretty far off.

I'm curious about Bob's (and others') numbers as well.
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:32 AM
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First a story and then

the numbers. BMW Atlanta set up the sag on the rear of my bike at delivery, but gave up messing with the front because of the cannister. At the 600 mile service, the cannister was removed and the tech set the sag at 35mm for both ends. I could probably use a little less sag up front, but it's really OK. I had been running rebound and compression damping settings per the book, but thought the front needed more rebound damping. The owners manual says, to increase damping, turn the knob counter-clockwise. So, I got down under there and turned it out....counterclockwise. It got worse....and worse and worse until it was backed all the way out and I was thinking I had a bad shock. (I'm a little slow I know so just you hush. ) So at the RA I took it by the Olhins tent and he bounced away and said the instructions were looking down, not up. "Rightie tightie, leftie loosie" still applies. So now the front is set at 11 out from the stop, with 2 threads showing on the preload spring collar. The rear is set at 14 out for both rebound and compression damping with 45mm of thread showing on the spring collar.
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Old 06-18-2007, 07:39 AM
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I just had my sag set at 30mm front and 40mm rear by my BMW dealer. That's what they recommended. But from what some of you are saying is 40 too much?
Old 06-18-2007, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by swillcox
I just had my sag set at 30mm front and 40mm rear by my BMW dealer. That's what they recommended. But from what some of you are saying is 40 too much?
I wouldn't think an extra 5mm is a problem for street riding.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:53 PM
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<>

Bob -

Just to confirm mine is right, since I always adjust looking TO the end I'm adjusting, clockwise (turning in) = firmer. Agreed?
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:57 PM
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Mal, agreed. When I get down in a squat, just behind the front wheel, being careful not to touch the header, turning the adjustment knob to the right will increase damping. Just like a standard right handed screw tightens things.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:08 PM
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<>

Which will makes the shock return SLOWER on it's rebound stroke, correct?

More damping = slower rebound speed
Less damping = faster rebound speed
AND
More damping = slower compression speed
Less damping = faster compression speed

Tell me if I'm really really dyslexical here...
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:48 PM
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That's the way I understand it Rapid. I can tell you that with the front rebound adjuster backed all the way out to 46 it was like riding a pogo stick.....Bob Bouncin' down the road. Not a pretty sight.
When the Ohlins guy was playin' with it, he'd push down on the peg and the tank top at the same time...looking for them to compress and rebound at the same rate. With too little rebound damping, the bike would push down, and bounce back past the point of rest....sometimes oscillating like that twice with decreasing amplitude until it came to a rest. Fun to watch an expert ply his art.

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Last edited by Bob Hancock; 06-18-2007 at 01:58 PM..
Old 06-18-2007, 01:55 PM
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