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Flatbutt1's Avatar
 
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another final drive leak

I've read the other threads on this topic and have this question. Mine is leaking very slowly and certainly I will repair it. But I don't want to put the bike up now in the middle of the season...so what am I risking if I keep delaying this repair?

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'99 R1100S DDP of course

I was born a rightie but now I'm a leftie.
Old 07-02-2007, 04:01 PM
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Well, if the leak is simply from a bad seal, then waiting to replace the seal should be fine. But, if the leak is caused by a seal going bad because the bearing is bad, then you risk further damage or like me, getting stuck somewhere when the entire thing blows.
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Old 07-02-2007, 04:07 PM
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unsafe at any speed
 
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Check the circle of bolts behind the rotor again.
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Old 07-02-2007, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SergioK
.... But, if the leak is caused by a seal going bad because the bearing is bad, ...
how does the bearing affect the seal?
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

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Old 07-02-2007, 05:28 PM
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unsafe at any speed
 
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If worn and loose, it allows the hub to move radially, enough to let oil pass between the hub and the seal.
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:31 PM
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ah, got it thanks. Now i've checked the fiche at MaxBMW but don't see the part I need. Any help on the part number please?
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

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Old 07-02-2007, 05:45 PM
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...not to forget friction and subsequent overheating!
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Old 07-02-2007, 05:49 PM
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#4?
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

I was born a rightie but now I'm a leftie.
Old 07-02-2007, 05:53 PM
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Where is thegrease dripping from? The Rubber boot on the front of the unit? or underneath?
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Old 07-02-2007, 06:11 PM
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Yep rubber boot in front
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

I was born a rightie but now I'm a leftie.
Old 07-02-2007, 06:21 PM
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so anybody got the jig/rig to loan me for this job?
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

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Old 07-02-2007, 07:23 PM
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ohboynightmeds reaally kicckingin now,and the two asistantscribes I have are distracting me sso I guess I gotta go. the little blue one just kinda peeks in but thtallone with therobe is more puishy.,night
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

I was born a rightie but now I'm a leftie.
Old 07-02-2007, 07:39 PM
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I just went through this last week. While doing a clutch job I pulled back the rear drive boot and about a 1/2 cup of oil came out. Make sure the oil is coming from the rear drive and not the trans output seal. Look up the swingarm for a oil trail which would be a sign of trans seal failure. Mine was easy to check since the swingarm was off the bike.

I have enough going on that I did not want to do the special tool/learning thing. I took the final drive to the shop and got it back 3 days later. The bad news was the $300 bills. The seal and some other small parts were replaced.

Good luck, RB
Old 07-02-2007, 11:39 PM
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So would...

...replacing the Final Drive or at least the bearings in the Final Drive be considered a maintenance item. Meaning there will come a time when you will do it. Also, has anyone had any FD failure once you replace the 19 ball bearing with the 17 ball bearing?
Old 07-03-2007, 05:51 AM
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Bearings are slow wear items, not maintenance items like oil changes, etc., but since their is wear on the bearing, and they are man made, they won't last forever unlike chains.
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Old 07-03-2007, 08:26 AM
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Anybody on the part number I need? please?
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'99 R1100S DDP of course

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Old 07-03-2007, 03:54 PM
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Why would one want to replace a 19 bearing with a 17 one? More precise fit (less movement) would to replace the 19 one with a 21.
Old 07-03-2007, 08:33 PM
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The two that BMW sells (crapshoot under the same part number) are 17-ball and 19-ball. Most of them from the factory were 19 ball but I have seen an original 17. For a while (a year or so ago) they were coming as 17-ball versions and lots of people thought that was the holy grail of FD bearings, but then they went away and it was just the 19 again. The last ones I've bought have been 19. No big deal IMO; I think either will last just fine if the FD is shimmed properly. Most that I see are too tight.

AFAIK the movement is a function of the fit (C3 for most of these) so it seems a 21-ball C3 would not have a more precise fit. And I don't think the precision of the fit is an issue anyway.

The prevailing thought was that the 17-ball had deeper races and was therefore more able to resist lateral loads. Haven't measured that myself but I am working on two of them today so maybe I can get that info.
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Old 07-04-2007, 04:08 AM
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Anton is correct. The fit has nothing to do with the number of balls, but rather the oil/clearance spec (C1, C2, C3 etc.)

Anton, so you've seen some tight eh? I've only seen a few that wre off (2?), but they were both loose. Both older too. 99-00 or so. What about the ones you saw. Same vintage as mine, or later?
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Old 07-04-2007, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
I've only seen a few that were off (2?), but they were both loose. Both older too. 99-00 or so. What about the ones you saw. Same vintage as mine, or later?
An 02, roughly 0.20 too tight. Took .10 out of the backlash and still had to take from the cover, so it tells me that it simply wasn't assembled with care. Another one, an R1100RT, also tight but I don't have a note as to how much. So I guess they are older ones.

And I'm accumulating a bunch of 0.70 shims. Any time I see the same shim all the time it makes me think the assembly line just has one box and slaps them together. Not necessarily the case, though.

The loose ones, were they failures? Could you tell anything about how they failed?

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Old 07-04-2007, 06:41 AM
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