Ohlins - My Set Up

Merrimac · 05-15-2003, 05:32 PM

With all the folks using Ohlins, I thought there may be value to sharing some of my set-up info.

Basics:
Front Travel: 110mm/4.33 inches Target Sag at 30% = 1.3 inches
Rear Travel: 130mm/5.12 inches Target Sag at 30% = 1.53 inches
Rear Wheel: 5.5 inches
Driver: 5' 11'' 205/210 pounds - kind of an old guy
Bike: 1999 R1100S with high bars and Vanderlinde exhaust

Ohlins set-up:
Front: Adjusted spring compression. Origional spring length was 7.250 inches. (Measuring the spring from end to end.) Adjusted spring length to 7.0626. Sag is 1.312

Rear: First, I had the origional rear spring replaced with a spring to match my weight. This was important to aquire the proper sag. Second, I increased the length of the shock until the rear wheel was just off the ground when using the center stand. (Real Scientific!) This provided additional rear end height. Sag can now be adjusted as follows:

3 Turns = 1.62 inches
4.5 Turns - 1.50 inches
6 Turns = 1.375 inches
12 Turns = 1.31 inches

So, what impact was created by changing the set-up. The front end is now planted with a firm but controlled ride. At first I had compressed the spring to 7 inches with a sag of about 1 inch. However, I found it did not allow the front end to respond to bumps due to the reduced sag. It tended to top out at times. I then lengthened the spring by .0625 inches to aquire the 1.3 sag. As for the rebound dampening, I have it set at about the origional spot. When I begin more agressive riding, I dial in more dampening.

Increasing the length of the rear shock has provided the expected quicker turn in always mentioned when the rear end is raised. Again the ride is firm but well controlled. I have not adjusted the compressing dampening but have increased the rebound dampening by 2 clicks.

What did I learn? Without the proper setup you cannot fully appriciate the increased control and comfort provided by Ohlins. In fact, I thought the changes were not providing much of a difference. That was until I realized I was riding, comfortability, through the twisties at speeds 5 to 10 MPH faster.

Hope this information can be of help to others. I would appriciate if others would do the same so we can learn from each other.

Jeff "S" Moore

Tip: To measure front sag, place a tie wrap around the male fork slide. That allows you to make easy sag measurements.

jclark · jclark's Garage

The Ohlins manual:

http://www.ohlins.com/mc_manuals.shtml

[ download PDF: Owners manual Road & Track shock absorbers
(Part No. 7241-02) ]

'suggests' the following for static sag [ no rider ]:

Front - 25 -35mm [ .98 - 1.37 ] inches

Rear - 5 - 10mm [ .2 - .4 ] inches

Your front seems to be in the park ( tho I'd turn the preload a tad more twords the higher [25mm ] end )

The rear could use a wee bit more preload as well - prolly 2mm ( 2 turns of the mechanical al-u-minimum adjusting ring ( assuming a 16kg/mm spring ))

Now, if you wish to ignore the manual, it is your privilege, but you will have it for reference.

jeff
been through it...

roger albert · 05-15-2003, 08:37 PM

the thread is 1mm per turn???

jclark · jclark's Garage

Si!

Measure it y'sef....

jef
...and three turns of the external hydraulic adjuster to effect one turn ( 1mm ) of the Al mechanical ring!
Best case, you get about ~7mm of travel with the hydraulic adjuster, so's ya bettah get the preload within that range 'fer ya bolt 'er there for good.
Or take it out/put it in a bunch of times like I did...

roger albert · 05-16-2003, 08:15 AM

Yes, it is a minimal adjustment. Basically, if you get it just right for solo riding with no hydraulic preload, then full preload is almost adequate for a passenger, if she's not too big. Of course, I've never had a tall girl say anything good about the back of the S, especially regarding feet/leg room anyway. I just use the preload for touring or lending the bike to larger friends for the most part.

jclark; I've changed springs, but have never actually bothered to move the mechanical (Al rings) preload adjusters. I thought (vague recollection) one of them was pinned in place and not easy to (re)move.
How did you handle this (or is my recollection just faulty) ???

thanks
roger

jclark · jclark's Garage

I bought a spring compressor.

Merrimac · 05-16-2003, 05:09 PM

Sorry. I forgot to mention that sag is measured with me on hte bike.

Jeff "S" Moore

jclark · jclark's Garage

Well, if you didn't pick up the manual as per the last post, here is the germane part:

Mit Rider:

Rear:30 to 40 mm [1.18 - 1.57 inches ]

Front:35 - 48mm [ 1.37 - 1.89 inches ]

jeff
feelin' saggy, all of sudden...

Guest24 · 08-25-2007, 04:07 AM

I'm not able to get the 43 nM on top. Can't hold the stem and get the torque wrench on with a deep wellsocket. Wazup here.

Guest24 · 09-05-2007, 07:55 AM

Roger, I got the rear shock resprung and now I'm ready to set the static/free sag. And that would be ___? The the laden/static sag is ___? Note the free and sttic terms are used in an article that Bob Hancock has. BTW Bob told me that the vibration breaks the bracket that is used to attach the hyd preload adjuster to the rear foot peg attach point. Since I have the canister removed, I decided to use one of the rubber mounted canister attach points instead. It is easy to get at withthe system cases installed. With the hugger installed like the set up better. I'm headed to western NC to get them dialed in this week.

roger albert · 09-05-2007, 08:28 AM

This is backwards.

AGAIN! You do not set the static sag. You set the sag with rider on board.
You set the approx correct sag with the rider on, and merely note the static sag.
It will tell you whether you have the right rate in place. It is a back-check/self-check,
and a good way to get an idea of whether the preload you used is likely to cause too
much topping.

tm1100s · 09-05-2007, 08:29 AM

Merrimac, I'm working with the same riding weight. I'm curious about the springs.

Can you post the spring numbers, just for a comparison to what I have on mine?

Guest24 · 09-05-2007, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roger albert

This is backwards.

AGAIN! You do not set the static sag. You set the sag with rider on board.
You set the approx correct sag with the rider on, and merely note the static sag.
It will tell you whether you have the right rate in place. It is a back-check/self-check,
and a good way to get an idea of whether the preload you used is likely to cause too
much topping.

Gotcha! I do have the correct spring rate Roger. Where would you start with the compression and rebound settings? Your front shock starting reference was pretty close.

Guest24 · 09-05-2007, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tm1100s

Merrimac, I'm working with the same riding weight. I'm curious about the springs.

Can you post the spring numbers, just for a comparison to what I have on mine?

This is an old thread but if you're up around the 220lb mark you'll be ok withthe front spring that comes stock. The rear spring comes stock with a 150 spring (fits a 150-175lb rider. At 220lbs you need at least a 170 and maybe 180 spring on the rear so that the sag is correct without cranking in the preload via the hydraulic adjuster.

Rapid Dog · 09:53 AM

Merrimac - adjusting the spring length/preload (sag) would require removing the shock I assume, yes? otherwise I'm not so sure I can get the wrench up in there...