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Clutch replaced-

I posted a couple months ago about cleaning the clutch disc. Now that I have opened the bike up that thought is completely gone. The disc is worn so the farther you go from the center the less friction material is left. The disc measures 5.7mm thick close to the shaft and 5.15mm at the perimeter. The bike has 60k of use. A new disc is around 6.5mm and the wear limit is 4.5mm. Mine shows 65% wear at the edge and 40% near the center. Both the metal clutch surfaces have blue spots on them. Oops, seems a little slipping took place.

The rear main seal has a slight weep, the input shaft seal is drooling and the slave cylinder is leaking. However the disc was dry. The clutch pushrod was dry and rusty on the clutch end. The input shaft was dry and rusty but without any wear. The pivot bearings, with only 10k on them, are showing wear already and will be replaced with Rubber Chicken bearings. Hopefully for the last time.

This was the second S clutch job for me. I tried the technique a BMW mechanic said to use. Instead of removing everything from the trans. back, just hinge up the subframe. This saves removing the wiring harness and all the zip ties. It also means not having figure out where the harness and zip ties need to go at reassembly time. However you have to remove the headers for the frame to clear as it swings up. This would be more work on an ABS model because of the metal rear brake line and the need to remove the pumps.

Waiting on parts, RB







Old 04-01-2008, 10:24 AM
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...good tip!
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:58 AM
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hey rb

that looks pretty familiar. I did mine a bit ago, but I'm either anal or stupid (but not lazy) as I disassembled everything completely.
I tossed in ('tossed'...now there's a misnomer for 8 hours of work) a touratech ceramic disc, new spring, and as yours, I had a heat-checked inner and outer plate and it was also worn more at the edges than the center..kinda looked like a belleville washer, so those were also replaced.
It's not cheap to do a clutch job (correctly) on one of these....nolr for the faint-of-mechanical-skill heart.
The complexity and cost of overhaul kinda negates the dry, automotive technology superiority.
I also went with the Rubber Chicken bushings.
'it's the same axe, I just replaced 3 handles and 2 heads over the years'
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:58 AM
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Jony-

I wonder what causes the bluing of the plates?

RB

Old 04-01-2008, 09:42 PM
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Ya know, that's a damn good-looking motorcycle. Kinda makes me miss mine. Sniffle.
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Old 04-02-2008, 01:11 AM
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Old 04-03-2008, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
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Jony-

I wonder what causes the bluing of the plates?

RB

Why, a quart of Plate Blue, now also available in handy litre size!
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Old 04-04-2008, 05:18 AM
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I finally found the photos I took of the clutch parts. Hopefully this will show the greater wear in the center I tried to describe. The new clutch feels so smooth. The new lube on the dry input shaft must be the reason.

RB


Old 08-08-2008, 12:47 AM
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Old 08-08-2008, 08:25 AM
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Hey RB,

I would like to see a close up of the trans input shaft after you get it cleaned up. Are the splines in good shape still?

I plan on doing mine this winter as I'm @ 36K miles right now.

Good job and thanks for posting.

Bill
Old 08-08-2008, 04:41 PM
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Old 08-08-2008, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill pierce View Post
Hey RB,

I would like to see a close up of the trans input shaft after you get it cleaned up. Are the splines in good shape still?

I plan on doing mine this winter as I'm @ 36K miles right now.

Good job and thanks for posting.

Bill
Bill-

I did not shoot the shaft after cleaning. I did run a dental pick along the spline surfaces and there was no wear that I could feel between the contact and non-contact areas. I expected something after 60K but really no wear. It seems that the wear pattern is on a bike by bike basis. Some are ground off in 12K while mine looks like it would go forever.


Sergio-

I don't know how honed I am but at this point I have figured out that I might mess something up in the process and need to replace it but it will still be cheaper than paying the shop to do it. Also as my wife has pointed out I don't trust other people's work.

RB
Old 08-09-2008, 12:36 PM
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'I don't trust other people's work.'

hehehe...neither do I...a character shortcoming of mine, unfortunately proved correct over the years.

your driven plate looked a bit better than mine, but those heat-check spots propogate fatigue cracks and a failure there, at 70+ on I-90, is not something to contemplate. There's a reason they call it a 'scatter shield'.
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Old 08-09-2008, 02:01 PM
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[
look at all the bikes in that garage... 3 beemers, a CB350 Honda, and an old GPZ... you must be selling popcorn on the side.
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Old 08-09-2008, 08:25 PM
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look at all the bikes in that garage... 3 beemers, a CB350 Honda, and an old GPZ... you must be selling popcorn on the side.
Sorry Bill but it might be time for an eye exam. It is a Honda CB400F. The F650 and the Honda are my wife's. The GPZ550 and the S are mine. The R1150GS and Ural sidecars are my brother-in-laws.

I give away free popcorn to friends.

RB




Last edited by RBMann; 08-10-2008 at 09:24 AM..
Old 08-10-2008, 09:20 AM
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Sorry again Bill. I forgot to include the photo.

Think I will go change the oil and get off the computer.

RB

Old 08-10-2008, 09:26 AM
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Good choice in wives you have there...
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Old 08-10-2008, 10:21 AM
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Mad stoppie?



Nope, just strapping it down to look at the clutch again-



Once more into the breach. I have been trying to find the source of engine vibration and decided to look at the clutch. Pressure plates are blue again but not as bad as the first time-





Transmission input shaft shows some wear at 103K miles but not too bad-



Clutch disc has plenty of material with about 30% gone after 40K miles-



Clutch disc splines are another issue. They are worn 60-70%-





Probable had another 5-10K before things would have spun freely. No lube anywhere it should be. I used Honda moly last time and it looks like the heat got to it or it is too thin and flew away. There is enough play in the disc splines to let the disc move about 1/4" at the outer diameter. really loose and wobbles on the shaft with some radial play. I hope this was cause of the vibes if not I am still glad I went in there.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:20 PM
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So...how did your bro-in-law attach a side car to what is basically a frameless motorbike? I have a trailer I'd like to tow with my GS but seeing what happened to Ewan's (Claudio's?) bike with the rear 'frame' breaking from the overloaded panniers - I gave up on the idea.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:48 PM
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I had an old input shaft that I recently passed on to EZRider that Moybin had included when he sold his bike awhile back. It was wore in the same manner. So, hears the question. Why didn't BMW make the shaft longer so that it would use all of the spline area available in the clutch plate? It seems that had the input shaft fit the complete gear available this offset wear could have been avoided. Just asking.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:21 AM
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