R1200s oil change

[lee1980]

Im going to change my oil soon as mine looks very black and im not eintirely sure dealer did it before i picked up bike so want to change it and see if it uses less to!
Ive used about 670ml (over half a quart i think) in 370 miles. Which i think is still within the quart/1 litre bmw allows ever 1,000km/600miles.

in manual it say to tighten drain plug to Initial torque, 23 Nm and then Final torque, 32 Nm ?? what does this mean? tighten 23 then leave it to cool? then tighten to 32?

And do i need to torque up oil filter to 11 Nm? i usually just to them by hand hardish?

i plan to do it on my abba bolt on main stand that raises rear wheel off the floor some will this be ok still for checking level?

Also what type of bolt is the oil drain plug? allen/hex key, torx? cant find it anywhere on the dvd rom service manual!

[Kieran R1100S]

K&N do a aftermarket filter that comes with a 1/2 inch nut on the bottom. No need to buy a puller.
I drop oil cold, leave it long enough and all will come out then torque it back to book advice. i say this because it may differ from country to country. Also it will make a difference to oil level if you check with stand on bike. Fill it with bike on side stand then handle your bike upright and view window, but be careful. I fill to top of window, but some say only half. Either way you will still have enough in there. About the amount of oil your bike is burning. It is summer in your country now and if the ambient temperature is up over 26c it will contribute to your bike burning oil. Also let us know how you are riding it. Wringing it's neck or just riding around legal, it does make a difference. If that amount you say is just from riding around normal then I say it is burning to much, but this could be because of what viscosity the oil is in the bike at the present. I live in Adelaide Australia and don't go under a 10w because it will just burn off to quickly from being to fine. It gets past the rings to easily. But you being from England and being cold more than warm I would ask a BMW mechanic to advice what they recommend. With all oil changes. After changing and all is back together, start bike up and look for leeks, if there is any, then you may be cross threaded or you may need to tighten more.

[signit98]

YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE OIL???

CAN I CHANGE FROM THE GS TO THE !!S TO THE 12S???

Wonder whether that counts...



You torque to the initial value and then torque again to the final value... I have always faired well with the hand tight oil filter...

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by Kieran R1100S

K&N do a aftermarket filter that comes with a 1/2 inch nut on the bottom. No need to buy a puller.
I drop oil cold, leave it long enough and all will come out then torque it back to book advice. i say this because it may differ from country to country. Also it will make a difference to oil level if you check with stand on bike. Fill it with bike on side stand then handle your bike upright and view window, but be careful. I fill to top of window, but some say only half. Either way you will still have enough in there. About the amount of oil your bike is burning. It is summer in your country now and if the ambient temperature is up over 26c it will contribute to your bike burning oil. Also let us know how you are riding it. Wringing it's neck or just riding around legal, it does make a difference. If that amount you say is just from riding around normal then I say it is burning to much, but this could be because of what viscosity the oil is in the bike at the present. I live in Adelaide Australia and don't go under a 10w because it will just burn off to quickly from being to fine. It gets past the rings to easily. But you being from England and being cold more than warm I would ask a BMW mechanic to advice what they recommend. With all oil changes. After changing and all is back together, start bike up and look for leeks, if there is any, then you may be cross threaded or you may need to tighten more.

I have ordered a oil filter tool thing wasnt to expensive and a bmw filter just got to get oil.
Thanks for advice on level and stuff. Bike is mainly ridden aorund town commuting but i do like to open it up when i can but its not often i suspect its burning most when stuck in traffic here in UK it happens a lot, roads are simply to small and although i filter still get stuck at times behind buses etc. and i think the air cooled engine is not good for this at all.
Im using castrol gp 20w 50 to top and using same to change oil!

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by signit98

YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE OIL???

CAN I CHANGE FROM THE GS TO THE !!S TO THE 12S???

Wonder whether that counts...



You torque to the initial value and then torque again to the final value... I have always faired well with the hand tight oil filter...

What you mean from gs to 12s???

why 2 diff torques vales if do you do it one after other??
yeah hand tight for filter always worked for me!

[jduke]

Lee, if I'm telling you something you already know, please excuse me.
The best way to consistently check your oil is:
After at least 30 miles ride, put bike on sidestand for 10 minutes.
(this lets oil drain from cooler)
After the 10 minutes, put bike on centerstand.
(this lets oil drain for all passages in engine)
Come back in 30 minutes and what you see in the oil sight glass is as accurate and consistent as I've seen.

[ckcarr]

Originally Posted by lee1980

in manual it say to tighten drain plug to Initial torque, 23 Nm and then Final torque, 32 Nm ?? what does this mean? tighten 23 then leave it to cool? then tighten to 32?

And do i need to torque up oil filter to 11 Nm? i usually just to them by hand hardish?

Do yourself a favor and buy an inch-lb torque wrench, they aren't that expensive and can be used for almost all mechanical work on the bike requiring precise torque measurements. Otherwise you may start stripping nice aluminum threads.

Not sure why there are two stages to the drain plug torquing on a single plug (it's not like your trying to apply uniform torque all over a group of bolts), but you may as well just follow the rules.

One persons "hand tight" is not the same as another.

multiply the NM torque value by 8.851 to get the proper inch-lb reading:

11 NM = 97.36 inch-lbs

multiply the NM torque value by .738 to arrive at ft-lbs (not good for much except wheels IMO):

11 NM = 8.08 ft-lbs

As far as draining oil "cold" it's a time waster and will not capture (suspend) particulates and other debris in the engine oil when you drain it. In other words, a lot of the crap in the engine will (likely) remain there as it has already settled to the bottom of the oil pan and isn't going to move as freely out the oil drain hole.

And there is no center stand on an r1200s. Various methods have been discussed on this board as far as holding the bike up to check oil levels. Me, I just get on the left side, hand onto the grip and push the bike up until it's level. But others may think this is a catastrophe waiting to happen.

How many miles are on this bike right now?

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by ckcarr

Do yourself a favor and buy an inch-lb torque wrench, they aren't that expensive and can be used for almost all mechanical work on the bike requiring precise torque measurements. Otherwise you may start stripping nice aluminum threads.

Not sure why there are two stages to the drain plug torquing on a single plug (it's not like your trying to apply uniform torque all over a group of bolts), but you may as well just follow the rules.

One persons "hand tight" is not the same as another.

multiply the NM torque value by 8.851 to get the proper inch-lb reading:

11 NM = 97.36 inch-lbs

multiply the NM torque value by .738 to arrive at ft-lbs (not good for much except wheels IMO):

11 NM = 8.08 ft-lbs

As far as draining oil "cold" it's a time waster and will not capture (suspend) particulates and other debris in the engine oil when you drain it. In other words, a lot of the crap in the engine will (likely) remain there as it has already settled to the bottom of the oil pan and isn't going to move as freely out the oil drain hole.

And there is no center stand on an r1200s. Various methods have been discussed on this board as far as holding the bike up to check oil levels. Me, I just get on the left side, hand onto the grip and push the bike up until it's level. But others may think this is a catastrophe waiting to happen.

How many miles are on this bike right now?

I have torque wrnech that does both ft-lbs and NM so thats ok.

i dont mind torqueing it up twice but when do you do the second torque up? i was guessing it be when it stone cold???

I for sure will be draining oil when its hot!

Normally when chekcing my dad sits on it upright or i use bits of wood under side stand, now when i drain oil is it best on side stand or on my bolt on main stand up right? i planned on taking it off stand after to check level so rear wheel in the air doesnt affect the level!

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by jduke

Lee, if I'm telling you something you already know, please excuse me.
The best way to consistently check your oil is:
After at least 30 miles ride, put bike on sidestand for 10 minutes.
(this lets oil drain from cooler)
After the 10 minutes, put bike on centerstand.
(this lets oil drain for all passages in engine)
Come back in 30 minutes and what you see in the oil sight glass is as accurate and consistent as I've seen.

i rarely do more than 10miles and would hope that be long enough!
yeah i usually leave for 5mins will leave for 10 now, i have bolt on main stand but that takes to long for checking oil so my dad sits on it upright or i use bits of wood lol! thats the problem with R1200s no centre stand and cant very well have my dad sit on it for 10mins lol and i imagine and paddock/bolt on stand will raise rear wheel some so give false reading??

[ckcarr]

Just do it. You are thinking too much.

And an inch-lb torque wrench is entirely different in sensitivity than a "sledgehammer" ft-lb torque wrench.

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by ckcarr

Just do it. You are thinking too much.

And an inch-lb torque wrench is entirely different in sensitivity than a "sledgehammer" ft-lb torque wrench.

You are most likely right lol do tend to think to much then oil is very important for a bike to! and i still dont get why there are 2 torques for the drain plug lol! and why the service manual doesnt say when each torque should be applied is it one after other or?

ahh i see you mean a lighter smaller one for smaller jobs!

[lee1980]

Well changed it today! and it has consistency of water which makes me believe the dealer never changed it back in Jan before i bought bike or it had fully synthetic in it!
Only just over 3 litres came out to wierd when its meant to have 4 in it! and i put back in just over 3.5 l and now its on half full.

I ended up doing the oil filter up until it felt tight like i have done in past lol, incidently the oil filter on there wasnt a bmw one but something like hi-pro filter not good me thinks! did same with sump bolt did it up snug no leaks so far and the filter came with an new sump washer to!

Feels so much smoother now and be interesting to see if i use any less oil now! and how quickly it changes colour now its like light red colour! all in all an easy oil/filter change!

[SergioK]

Does anyone know if Bosch (or anyone else) makes an alternate filter that replaces the oem filter (11427673541) ?

[AZ-Twin]

http://www.beemerboneyard.com/oilfilters.html

Not sure what the number is but they have them.
[edit]

Check this out....interesting.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

[edit]

more

HiFlo Filtro Oil Filters

[markjenn]

Originally Posted by lee1980

Well changed it today! and it has consistency of water which makes me believe the dealer never changed it back in Jan before i bought bike or it had fully synthetic in it!
Only just over 3 litres came out to wierd when its meant to have 4 in it! and i put back in just over 3.5 l and now its on half full.

I ended up doing the oil filter up until it felt tight like i have done in past lol, incidently the oil filter on there wasnt a bmw one but something like hi-pro filter not good me thinks! did same with sump bolt did it up snug no leaks so far and the filter came with an new sump washer to!

Feels so much smoother now and be interesting to see if i use any less oil now! and how quickly it changes colour now its like light red colour! all in all an easy oil/filter change!

You're going to give yourself an ulcer at this rate. The old oil was the consistently of water because you were changing it hot. It's fairly normal to not get a complete drain and remove less than spec. HiFlo (not hi-pro) filters have been tested to be very good and in many cases are the same as OEM. Color is not a good indicator of oil dirtiness.

IOW, the dealer probably didn't do anything wrong before, your oil is fine, and everything is completely normal. Carry on.

Cheers,

- Mark

[lee1980]

Originally Posted by markjenn

You're going to give yourself an ulcer at this rate. The old oil was the consistently of water because you were changing it hot. It's fairly normal to not get a complete drain and remove less than spec. HiFlo (not hi-pro) filters have been tested to be very good and in many cases are the same as OEM. Color is not a good indicator of oil dirtiness.

IOW, the dealer probably didn't do anything wrong before, your oil is fine, and everything is completely normal. Carry on.

Cheers,

- Mark

hehe i wouldnt go that far lol!
Im sure other filters are just as good would just expect my bmw dealer if had done oil change would of used a bmw filter really!

One thing for sure since changing oil and filter is its burning less so leads me to think oil was on last legs as going so thin when hot and seeping past rings easier etc to burn more!