K Bike help

[Bigred455]

So I am replaceing the clutch on my fathers '99 K1200RS and ahve hit a bit of a snag to say the least. To remove the trans you must removed the driveshaft housing (swingarm). The swingarm has a pivot pin screwed into eash side of the housing and these go inside the inner race of the swing arm bearings. See item #5.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0554&mospid=48866&btnr=33_0679&hg=33&fg=15


Well they both were severly stuck in place. I managed to get the right side out but am at a loss on the left. Here is what I have done:

Broken Napa 3/8" drive 14mm socket
Broken Craftsman 3/8" drive 14mm socket
Broken Snap-on 3/8" breaker bar
Broken Craftsman 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive adapter
Broken chrome Matco 1/2" drive deep socket
Broken chrome Matco 1/2" drive shallow socket
Broken Matco 1/2" drive impact socket and in the process rounded the head of the bolt.

During this expedition in breaking I have used penetrating oil and heat to no avail. I have used my Matco 1/2" impact and am now at a 1/2" drive 24" long breaker bar with a fork tube as a cheater pipe (40"+ of leverage). I can get my breaker bar to bend a good 4 or 5 inches in the middle and that blasted pin will not come out. Finally I have welded a 30mm axle nut to the pin but keep breaking the welds.

I am serioulsy at my wits end. There is a housing on ebay and am serioulsy contemplating sawzalling mine in half. My next step is going to be to reweld, let sit over a day. Heat the tube and shoot some freon or the like on the bolt. If that doesn't do it I have no more thoughts.

Anyone have an idea?

[signit98]

WOW... is an idea that comes to mind.

I'd like to think that either Bill S or Anton would be able to give you some pointers, but you seem to have been down pretty much every road there is.

I had the same problem when dismantling my '03 BCR... the right side would NOT want to break loose... took a bit of heat and the neighbor 3/4" breaker bar... and even than, with a 4' extension, I really had to step on it (Literally) to get it to break loose...

I'd try the heat the race and cool the bolt approach... and then use the force

THE BRUTE FORCE!

[Bigred455]

Yea brute force is right. I've got the breaker bar over my shoulder and am squating position lifting up with my entire body. It is litteraly picking the bike up and pivoting it on the front wheel (clamped onto the chock of my lift). My buddy has been doing his best to hold it down but damn.

[bill pierce]

It may well be in there with red loctite BMW uses it in abundance. If so it will need to be heated to 220 deg or so. Tough when it's that far in.

[onekiwi]

yup ralf has it, get a plumbers gas torch and heat the center of the pin/bolt.This is more to cook out the locktite than anything else.It should loosen then

[Bigred455]

Bill, I can only assume it is loctited but the RH side was dry. The bike does have 75k and may not have ever been apart.

Kiwi, believe me it has been red hot, still not loosening.

[varmint]

tie a cement block to the breaker bar. fix the bar to the pin with the block hanging an inch off the floor. spray pin with wd-40. walk away for 24 hours.

but if the other things haven't worked, this is pretty unlikely.


buying a new part and just hack sawing the thing off is a pretty real option at this point.

[onekiwi]

I have done a couple of clutches on the old k12 quite a few years ago and and seem to remember it being a beearch of a job.Can you disconnect the diff ,pull the driveshaft,remove the bearings on the pivot and wriggle the swingarm out with the remaining pin in place.You have removed the bottom cross member right?

[AntonLargiader]

Wow. All I can think is that you aren't using enough heat, but I'm not there. Faced with something like that I just use lots of heat cycles (heat the outer part quickly) with Kroil and usually things loosen up.

When you removed the right side pin, what did you see? Corrosion, or clean threads?

[Bigred455]

Kiwi, it will not come apart without removing the pivot pin.

Anton, the right side looks good, no signs of loctite, corrosion or debris.

[wswartzwel]

When faced with parts that have become one with each other... sometimes destroying one is the only option... I would drill out the pin... clean up the threads with an awl and replace the pin.

[Bigred455]

Bill that is certainly high on my option list. I'm trying to decide if the time, possible too damage and energy is worth it to salvage a $50 (used ebay) part. Hahah I'm quite frustrated with it and really feel like just killing it to make me feel better.

[bradzdotcom]

for $50, take it out in the woods and shoot/blow it up.

boy, it's gonna take you forever to return all those broken tools one at a time, a month apart so they don't go "hey, hold on buddy, what exactly did you do to all these?"

curious as to how well the "you break it, we'll replace it" promise holds up when you're standing there with three broken matco items in your hand.

[Bigred455]

My Matco man is a truely stand-up tool guy, he will no doubt replace them, as he already has. I was inquiring about a tool box on his truck, when i co worker mentioned having a box for sale. When the coworker left the truck Don told me the coworkers box was a better buy knowing he was losing a sale.

Now rolling into sears in my uniform to replace tools doesn't work, you gotta remember to dress incognito. hahah

[wswartzwel]

I have never had a problem with sears replacing stuff...

My matco guy will replace anything for any reason... socket a little worn, replaced... Rubber handle on pliers torn.. replaced... I don't like a screwdriver anymore.. stick it in the vise, break it, turn around and hand it to him... replaced. Snap on guy is the same.

[Bigred455]

Bill the way it was explained to me with Sears is they are professional grade not professional tools. So taking my tools in for warranty in my mechanics uniform I guess is frowned upon.