r1100s dyeing Issues

B0XERCUP · 05-06-2009, 11:49 AM

Hi, im new to this site as well as new to my 2005 BCR. but I am having a seemingly phantom issue when I am sitting at a light, The engine just dies if it is idling around 1100K rpms as if someone hit the kill switch but if it is is idling at 1500K rpms it will not die but you know it wanted too. this not really a common thing it will happen twice a weekish. The only thing that is in common when it happens are that the engine is warm and im sitting in traffic or light. Time sitting still ranges form just stopping to 6 min and when im going I can feel any hiccups or delay when I get on it. I had the dealer mess with it a few times that how I know about the not dyeing at higher idle but I was wondering what it is and has anyone else had this issue.

Moybin · 05-06-2009, 12:25 PM

boxercup:

How many miles on the bike? How hot is it when you are sitting in traffic (50F or 90F)? The kill switch feel is eerily similar to how mine felt. I thought it was an issue with the Hall Effect detectors but a tune up by Gina's BMW in Iowa City seems to have cured the problem.

I would not let the engine idle for 6 minutes, particularly in warmer weather. If you know you are stopping for this long, shut it down. Only the Police RTs have factory fans to cool the oil during long periods of no-to-low speed operation. You will kill your oil quickly.

Being a BCR all you have is a side stand, correct? Are you in gear holding the clutch in or in neutral when at idle? The side stand down will kill the engine if the tranny is in gear, so a bad connection somewhere in the side stand switch circuit can cause this.

shreddr · shreddr's Garage

I have had both my R12 and R11 stall out at street lights, not a lot, but a couple of times each. Its a little unsettling, I keep trying to figure out what might lead up to it. I notice if I slow down slowly coming to a light and let the bike get to idle easily it never dies. Sometimes I think it only happens when coming to a rapid complete stop from the higher RPMS. It may be a monstrous scavenging effect occuring that sucks the throttle body dry when it is fully closed down. I am getting the EWS sensor replaced (warranty) Saturday just to hedge my bets.

bacn5 · 05-06-2009, 02:59 PM

When I first installed my Power Commander I ran it with a zero map to see where the A-F ratio was with the base program. I had this happen a couple of times after a 30 minute ride stopped at a light. Each time it happened the A/F gauge showed the engine going progressively lean and then it would die. Throttle body sync focusing on the plates being identical at idle corrected the problem for the most part. Proper mapping totally eliminated it. If the plates are synced properly the air screws will be out the same amount and the twin max needle will be centered at it's highest sensitivity level at idle.

bacn5 · 05-06-2009, 03:01 PM

Remember if the right plate is even slightly more open than the left the right cylinder will run lean.

B0XERCUP · 05-06-2009, 03:03 PM

The bike has 7000ish miles and I had the bike at the shop a few times they looked it over and tested the hall Effect detectors and the coils, but said with out throwing new parts into it they are not sure what it could be since nothing is testing out of range and pretty much to ride it till it starts getting worse. I was just looking to get the bottom of it sooner than that.

ckcarr · ckcarr's Garage

Who is the real boxercup?

boxercup

or

B0XERCUP

?????????????

Can you say identity theft???

wswartzwel · 05-06-2009, 07:16 PM

I was wondering how he created a username that was already in use?

SergioK · 05-06-2009, 07:28 PM

All CAPS vs lowercase. (Unix systems know the difference)

Anyway, does the bike still have the charcoal cannister? If not, have all the vent hoses been properly routed?

B0XERCUP · 05-07-2009, 07:43 AM

One the all lowercase is the real one and i have a zero instead of a o, and yes i do still have that filter on but i think i will remove it since it is just pointless weight added and i dont live in Cally.

plucky · 05-07-2009, 08:53 AM

what colour are you trying to dye it?

boxercup · boxercup's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by ckcarr

Who is the real boxercup?

boxercup

or

B0XERCUP

?????????????

Can you say PPBB identity theft???

Greetings,

Yes - Theft!

But what is their agenda?

To go that far?

Eh Peeter?

proton · 05-07-2009, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B0XERCUP

Hi, im new to this site as well as new to my 2005 BCR. but I am having a seemingly phantom issue when I am sitting at a light, The engine just dies if it is idling around 1100K rpms as if someone hit the kill switch but if it is is idling at 1500K rpms it will not die but you know it wanted too. this not really a common thing it will happen twice a weekish. The only thing that is in common when it happens are that the engine is warm and im sitting in traffic or light. Time sitting still ranges form just stopping to 6 min and when im going I can feel any hiccups or delay when I get on it. I had the dealer mess with it a few times that how I know about the not dyeing at higher idle but I was wondering what it is and has anyone else had this issue.

When was the last time you blasted rev limit through at least 4 gears? These bikes need a good solid beating once in a while.

R111S · R111S's Garage

I had this issue on my '99...bacn5 is on to it I'd say.

From my Log File:

23AUG2004 - @19,135 Miles I followed the advice from one of my British riding buddies, Chris Barnes who owns a 2004 BMW R1150R Rockster, regarding Throttle Body Synchronization. While the engine is OFF, listen to the Throttle closure to hear the Butterflies hit their respective STOPS. Make sure that they STOP simultaneously during Throttle rolloff to Low Idle position. Mine did not STOP simultaneously. The RH side hit the STOP slightly later than the LH side. Chris said to only adjust the Cable of the RH side (without the Throttle Position Sensor) and do not adjust the STOP Screws. I made the adjustment in about 3 minutes and now they STOP simultaneously

...no probs since then.

bacn5 · 05-07-2009, 06:01 PM

Yes, every time you work on the bike, and especially if you remove the tank, make sure you listen (with the engine off) to make sure that both plates are closing completely and simultaneously. Make sure the high idle lever (choke) is not engaged. It doesn't take much to upset the cable routing and usually just making sure the cables are in the correct spots is all you need to do.
But that is just step one. Step two is making sure the Twinmax needle is centered at the highest sensitivity setting at idle.