Yes, sorry for the confusion.

the crankcase breather plugs into the upper rh side of the 11s airbox
I HATE oil in my airbox; it does nothing good.
I vented the breather to a little K&N stubbie routed under the bike away from the rear tire.
no oil in airbox
no oily mist in the intake air
since I have a leakdown of less than 2% there are no issues doing it this way.

try some nology (brisk) pure silver plugs. I swear by them now. mebbe some nology wirs for the stock coils (I have nology coils but it entailed a mod most don't want to do)

my $.02

Jony-

I am sure that plugs, wires and coils might make a difference but I really want to find the underlying reason for the richness in the right side. Or is it leanness in the left?

Thanks

Jony, after this lil mod do both your plugs show even 'soot' amounts? I always attributed the right side being darker to the air/oil breather intake.

sergio;
I have 25K miles on since I eliminated the breather to the airbox and yes, in my opinion, IN MY CASE it did clear up the slight discrepancy...and it runs better. oily mist in intake air is not really condusive to a perfect state of tune.
Now, there can be many reasons for soot on one side and not the other;
ring seal, valve guide wear, major tb imbalance, weak spark come to mind.

a leakdown test (not just static compression but leakdown) can help here.

I agree, rb, one needs to know why.

The story continues.

Had the injectors cleaned, hoping to see an improvement. Got the report back and there was only 2.3% difference between them before the cleaning. Rode the bike for a week and it still has the idle issue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256525855.jpg

I was checking the plugs today and noticed that the idle was OK until the engine warmed up. Went in a little deeper and it looks like the Halls effect sensor wires are the problem. I will replace the wires but might just get a whole new unit.

I hope this is the end.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1256526223.jpg

you need some of that thick, black, gooey tape you gave me in Paonia... ;)

Jony: Just to add to your post, the Brisk/Nology silver core plugs are a single-electrode type like the Autolite 3923. I'm running the Nology wires but not the coil. Next plug change, am going back to the Brisk DOR14LGS (also solid silver core) or the regular Brisk/Nology single electrode.

OK, I did a complete tune up. Replaced plugs, coil, plug wires, Halls sensor and had the injectors cleaned. Both plugs look the same now but on the way to work last week I had the the idle go lumpy one time, again. I don't know what it means so I will keep riding to see if it happens more. If I still have the idle issue then I am kind of at a loss where to look next, O2 sensor or bad connectors someplace?

I am also tempted to disconnect the PC III for a while but then I would have to put the stock O2 sensor back in. ACK!

You can run without the O2 sensor , no problem. The bike IMHO runs better with it disconnected.

i think you called it.

Well, better late then never. Got tired of this whole problem and decided to go back to square one. Ripped off the PC and removed the Laser chip. Everything is stock now. Replaced all the sensors. It ran really lean with bad idling and major surge. Drove around the country in May and all summer that way. I did get good mileage.

Went back over my repair logs and found I had added fuel in the idle cells of the PC before going to TOR last year. Looks like I out-smarted myself with the Laser chip and change in altitude creating my own problem. Last week I reinstalled the PC and applied what I know now to the table for a stock bike. It idles again and almost all of the surge is gone. Rode around Mt. Rainier last weekend and averaged 47MPG. I hope this is the end of it all.

Thanks for all the help.

Thanks for keeping us updated. It's helpful when people "close the loop" on issues, so those of us searching for info in the future know what the ultimate fix was.

-Jeff