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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Round Rock (Austin), TX, USA
Posts: 1,212
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Repairing plastic body work
I have some cracks and broken tabs that need to be repaired. Do any of you have experience with the plastic welding repair methods/tools available?
I've seen some results that appear structurally sound but look very messy. Will any repair, even if it's a one inch crack, require sanding, bondo and repaint? Here are some MZ pics. First good side, then bad side then crack.    There are apparently two kinds of "welding" technologies available; "soldering iron" and "hair dryer". Here's a link from HF with what they have. Any opinions which is better? Any links to decent video tutorials or how to write ups are appreciated. Any pointers to color correct DDP plastic welding rods? That's a long shot I know. Yeah, yeah, I know, why would I want to repair DDP anyway? Any anecdotal experience and opinion is welcome. This is hopefully a one shot deal so I'm trying to keep the cost of the tooling reasonable.
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Paul. '11 R1200RT, '09 Buell 1125cr, '08 Suzi SV650A, '00 Suzi SV650, '97 328i (with sticky ass tires - I love this car). And the bikes I used to own: '68 Bultaco 100, '69 Honda CL450, '71 Kawasaki Mach III, '71 OSSA Pioneer, '72 Honda MR175, '72 Benelli 250, '75 Yamaha RD350 (then college), '83 Honda VF750F (then kids),'96 MZ Skorpion, '99 R1100S, '01 SV650, '94 Honda VFR750F and '04 R1100S w/Öhlins an' stuff, most wrecked. |
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05-29-2010, 06:16 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Eastern Rockies
Posts: 1,796
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I've tried the plastic welding stuff from HF and my opinion is that it's not good for small parts. It works on thick plastic OK but thin or small parts will meltdown.
Not sure what type of plastic it is, but if you find out, go to a body shop supply place and get some 2 part 3m epoxy like 4040, or whatever the latest replacement is for that. They repair plastic auto bumpers with this stuff and I've used it to repair plastic bodywork tabs where they were broken, gone and nothing left. Cost about $40 bucks for the stuff. Sets up in about 5 minutes and ready to use. For cracks, force some into the crack put a coating of the 3m stuff on the back side. Drill a very small hole at the top of the crack to keep it from spreading.
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tm (R12, R11, R1) + 00 then S, S, /7 Last edited by tm1100s; 05-29-2010 at 08:53 AM.. |
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05-29-2010, 08:47 AM
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 863
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I think Westsystem G FLex is a suitable. It will take some work. I would put some fiberglass on the back of the crack and come up with a way to roughly mold it for the tabs and broken off bits. You can always trim it back when its cured. Good Luck.
WEST SYSTEM | Specialty Epoxies - G/flex
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05-29-2010, 11:11 AM
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