Replace/Repair Hall Effect Sensor
 

I recently turned over 70k miles on my R1100S and just had the Hall sensor go out on me. At least I know it is right on schedule. I had a telltail sign of trouble about 5 months ago when I had a momentary hesitation under acceleration resulting in a huge backfire and big cloud of smoke. It has now quit running entirely. Luckily it was only about 2 miles from home.

I have isolated the problem to the wiring and was able to get it to fire back up when I loosened the wire bundle and moved it around a bit. I am in the process of going in and am going to attempt a repair. So, my question is...has anyone here actually done this job before? I searched the forum and did not find any info on an actual repair for the R1100S.

I could use some advice on something I thought would be very basic, but has me a bit confused. I need to remove the lower alternator drive pulley which requires locking the flywheel to remove the nut. I made a rod to fit into the hole in the case that fits into the flywheel. Unfortunately the airbox on the R1100S is completely in the way of this port. I need to move the airbox but the only info in the manual about this say "see removal of transmission". Are they serious? Somebody tell me it ain't so. I've been thinking about a spline lube but didn't think the Hall sensor repair would be the reason to do it right now.

Scott,

I sent a .pdf. You probably already saw it in your email.

Scott, there is an article somewhere, MOA I think about this issue. Complete repair info. The insulation was bad on my wires right under the metal holding strape, just like in the article. Bought a new one from BeemerBoneYard.

Thanks guys. I have the article you are referring to, Hall Effect Sensor That is a good reference, and in fact my sensor wiring is the problem. I plan on attempting a repair but have not been able to get the part out yet.

Do you recall how you removed the lower alternator belt pulley? I enjoy fixing stuff but don't like having to figure out how or why someone else designed an assembly the way they did. I feel like I need special decoder ring or be a member of some secret society to get the key to how this shtuff is supposed to come apart. It's still way less frustrating that some cars are to work on though. I will take my cup of coffee out and poke around a bit more. I just hope I don't start throwing stuff again :)

"I just hope I don't start throwing stuff again"

That's the way I was taught to work on motorcycles. I feel your pain but I'm sorry I can't help.

Richard

Then again, I'll pray for you.

hehe, thanks Richard.

I didn't need to take a bunch of stuff apart. Just drop it in gear and stand on the rear brake to loosen the bolt.

Doh! Thanks RB. I guess I was expecting a pressed on automotive style pulley with some major torque. It popped right off. I should have known better than to have started with the service manual :)

Sometimes the more you know the easier it is to over think things. Most of the time I don't know enough.

Was your insulation bad under the clamp too?

Yes, under the clamp had deteriorated. I'm going to run down some higher temp wire and check if I still have any soldering skills.

It's funny how the older I get the quicker I forget things I've learned along the way. It's tougher when you have to start from scratch every time. I've started to write things down more lately when I go through a big project so I don't have to figure it out all over again in a couple years.

Think on the bright side Scott, tomorrow you'll think you just bought a brand new 11S.:D

I always try to look at the bright side...maybe that's why I can't see as well any more either.

Well, I broke down and just ordered a new Hall Sensor at a good price from these guys, Euro MotoElectrics . The price was almost $100 less than the dealer for a brand new later version complete hall sensor.

After closely examining my wires it appeared that one of the wires was bare almost the full length and others had a couple weak spots. There is a shielded cover that I'm supposed to slice lengthwise and try to stuff six new wires into along with six solder joints and make it weather tight. I really don't feel that confident in pulling off a reliable part with that much fiddle fudging around. Not to mention the sensors themselves may fail later. The thought of another total shut down anywhere, at any time, for this failure mode just isn't something I want to think about again. Some things are just better to replace than try to fix just to save a few bucks.

Scott-

Those were my same thoughts. My brother-in-law plans to repair the wires and take it along on his big trips, as a spare.

On a related note, are any of you noticing deterioration of the rubber sheathing used on most of the wiring harness? I spent a good part of my weekend taping up my harness(es) where the sheathing has become brittle and crumbled to the touch.

-Jeff

Jeff, I would also like to know what is available to work as a wire wrap to repair those deteriorating wire bundle covers. I know there are a couple types of rubber or silicone self fusing tapes available from 3M but I have no experience with them. Regular electrical tape is no good in the long run because the ends will eventually unravel when the adhesive wears out.

Part of the raeson I chose not to rebuild my sensor is because I know there must be a better alternative to the wire rebuild than has been suggested, but I don't have the electrical experience to find the correct solution. There should be a perfect shielded 5 wire (22ga) bundle with the right heat and oil protection that could be soldered in place.

I just don't have the patience or time to discover these things right now, so I'm not going to waste my time trying out several options before finding the right one. Finding the right wire bundle wrap tape is kind of the same dilema. It would be great if someone that has tried these things succesfully would offer some of their knowledge.

There's an electronic supply store here in Goleta. I'll stop by there today to see what type of wraps and 5 wire bundles they have. Also, Scott, is there a number on the Hall sensor that can be cross-refd. I'll check that, too.

I have made similar electrical repairs using a product called Plasti Dip which I bought at Home Depot. It is some sort of fast curing, rubberized product that you brush-on, spray or dip. I used the spray can & not the bulk container. OTOH, maybe you could dip your wiring & let the excess drip off. In any case, I used the spray very sparingly, letting it dry a min and then repeating to build up a continuous even coating. I used a heat gun to speed up the process. The stuff remains flexible and waterproof & is heat resistant. Hope this helps: good luck with your repair.

Go to NAPA and get wire loom. It is a plastic tube with a split down the side. Same thing auto makers use. comes in different diameters.

Thanks Tony, the hall sensor is a Honeywell 2AV54

The 5 wire bundle has an OD of around .230". Up to .250" would probably be ok. The covering needs to be shielded, flexible, heat and oil tolerant.

The guy that wrote the article about the repair called out 22awg but it actually measures out at 20awg.

Look for a good solution for wire wrap too. I think the 3M fusable rubber tape is #70 and the silicon fusable tape is something like #23. Not sure if these are the right solution to sealing and repairing the main wiring harness but might be a good start.

GR, The parts dip stuff or spary electrical tape is good for certain applications but probably not for the full wiring harness where some kind of wrap would be easier to apply.

My main concern with the deteriorating sheeth on my harness was rub through of the exposed individual wires, so I used the finest electrical tape Home Depot stocked to patch up my harness. It is okay for now, but I would like a more permanant professional looking solution.

Is there a type of shrink wrap that coils around bundle rather than slide over it from the open end so connectors do not need to be removed to use it?

-Jeff