Air in Brake system

[RIQUE]

Howdy Folks, I decided to replace my clutch master cylinder lid that had a scuff on it. While doing so I also replaced the fluid that was pretty clean. Since the procedure was not complicated I decided to replace the brake fluid as well. While moving the master cylinder to vertical position the banjo bolt that connects the front brake hose came loose and to my dismay air got in the system

My service manual is for the early single spark with Brembo brakes. So my question is. Is the bleeding procedure the same? and what is the proper bleeding order. Thanks...and yes I will check the archives too.

The picture is of the color of the brake fluid before change. Yuk!

[R111S]

I bled the brake lines on my '99 R1100S w/ABS after replacing all the lines with a Spiegle 5-Hose Braided Steel Kit. All went well but like several posted here the Front Brake line was difficult to get all the air out.

I finally used the tip of turning the Bars all the way left to set the Master Cylinder to the highest vertical location. Then pull the brake lever in and use a Ty-Strap to hold it in place. Let sit set overnight and all was better the next day.

[Nitro]

I always zip-lock both the front and rear brakes (also hydraulic clutch) on my bikes when not in use, this assures air-free brake system.

[RIQUE]

Nitro, can you explain what zip locking is?

[jduke]

Plastic tie, big rubber band, etc.
You want to pull the lever to the grip, wrap something around the lever and grip so it holds the pressure and let it sit overnight.

[RIQUE]

Oh, I got a fancy one of those from Wunderlich. Must I leave the nipple open so that air drains?

[jduke]

Nipple on the brake caliper? NO.
With the pressure on the system caused by pulling the lever to the grip, any air in the system should rise to the brake reservoir. Not sure if this trick works on bikes with the servo braking system.

[throttlemeister]

Originally Posted by jduke

Nipple on the brake caliper? NO.
With the pressure on the system caused by pulling the lever to the grip, any air in the system should rise to the brake reservoir. Not sure if this trick works on bikes with the servo braking system.

More specifically, it makes the bubbles smaller (tiny) which makes it easier for them to travel up through the lines, and when you release the lever in the morning they get sucked right into the reservoir and out of the lines.

Doesn't replace proper bleeding, but can remove that last little sucker you have problems getting out.

[jduke]

Thanks TM. Do you know if this works on servo brakes?

[RIQUE]

Originally Posted by jduke

Thanks TM. Do you know if this works on servo brakes?

I see no reason why it should not? What concerns me is that I pump the brake and the right nipple barely pours out some fluid when I open. Must I literally suck it out?

[throttlemeister]

Originally Posted by jduke

Thanks TM. Do you know if this works on servo brakes?

It does, but you need to keep in mind that with the servo brakes you have 2 brake systems: one from the lever to the ABS unit, and one from the ABS unit to your calipers. The bungie thingie on the lever is only going to do something on the first, not the second.

[throttlemeister]

Originally Posted by RIQUE

I see no reason why it should not? What concerns me is that I pump the brake and the right nipple barely pours out some fluid when I open. Must I literally suck it out?

Open it a little further. If the nipple is fully open, it will squirt to the ceiling if you are not careful.

If you have servo abs, there is a very specific way of doing this. Use google, it will pop up. It is not at all like regular brakes.

[RIQUE]

TM you mean something like "bleeding ABS R1100S brakes...?"

[throttlemeister]

I think what you want is this:
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

[RIQUE]

Nice....appreciate it.

[RIQUE]

I purchased a set of speed bleeders from A&S an just noticed they sent me
the wrong one! WTF!