R1100S Oil Change Step-by-Step?

[sfarson]

Does anyone have instructions for an S oil change? I searched the archives here, have looked through the manual, went to a couple BMW sites on the web. No luck. I could probably figure it out, but would value any references or how-to.

Thanks,

Steve

[buckeyeRS]

Try www.IBMWR.org , I remember going there to find the instructions. I know the basic steps but it is best if you get them from a reliable source.

It may be the easiest oil change you do. I found that you need a good catch basin, preferably one that collects and stores used oil. Also, an accurate measuring device is needed, otherwise you are guessing on the total fill amount.

Good luck!
-john

[JustAnotherSquid]

Here's how I do it:

Place pan and paper under bike.
Remove oil fill cap.
Remove drain plug.
Remove oil filter.
Let all oil drain.
Fill new filter with new oil.
Apply old oil to new filter gasket.
Install new filter.
Install drain plug.
Fill oil to HALF WAY up sight glass.
Install oil fill cap.
Start engine and let it run a minute or two.
Turn off engine and let bike sit for a few minutes.
If necessary, add more oil till sight glass is HALF FULL.

If you fill it past half, you are just asking to overfill it.

Eagerly awaiting 50 posts telling me how I change my oil wrong,
JAS

[Kurt E.]

If I remember correctly, the oil drain plug takes a 6mm Allen key (a T-handle one works best). A few pointers:

1) Buy the BMW filter wrench, since it is difficult to find an off-the-shelf one that fits. There's not a lot of clearance to get around the filter, so you will definitely need a filter wrench to get it out.

2) Oil capicity (including filter) is supposed to be 3.96 quarts, but this puts too much oil in the motor. Start with around 3.5 quarts, take a quick ride, then check the oil level in the sight glass.

3) You probably already know this, but put the bike on the sidestand first. Leave it for around ten minutes, then put it on the center stand to check the oil level. This help the oil drain down from the oil cooler, and gives you a more accurate reading of the oil level.

Per John's reply, the IBMWR site is an excellent source of information on the oilhead motor. I printed out their tune up manual, and use this more often than my BMW shop manual.

Hope this helps!

[Joe]

A few things to add to the change.

Go for a little ride first so the oil is warm.

Make sure the old filter o-ring is not stuck on the motor.(mine always is)

Dispose of the old oil properly.(this is getting harder to do)

And Don't be like JAS and use synthetic(in the motor) under 10Kmi.

JAS only 49 to go

[Jim Karns]

JAS,
So far so good - no corrections LOL
Noticed one more thing missing (sorry) -
Replace the crush washer in the drain plug
Wether you warm the oil prior to draining or not, allow ample time for all the oil to drain out. This ain't "jiffy lube".
Hey Joe - I changed over to synthetic (Mobil 1) @ 6,000! I got no problems with it...

[JeffD]

one little trick I do tho probably a bit anal is I drop the bike off the center stand after the oil stops dripping out and tip the bike from side to side. This gets the last few ounces of dirty oil out and I figure why not get it all out.

[sfarson]

'Preciate the tips and personal practices. Very helpful. Will give it a try soon.

Steve

[cliff j randall]

Steve.....Here is a short cut for you, and frankly an all round good idea. Before installing the new oil filter, fill it with oil. This way you don't have to start the motor or fool around to figure out if you have the right amount of oil, just fill it to the half way point in the screen and you're done!
By the way, many people overfill their motorcycle engines with oil. The reason is simple, they take a reading when the oil is still in the head, don't do that. Stone cold is the best time to read!!!!
Cheers,
Cliff

[Rapt]

Final note. The S is notorious for hiding oil, so don't aim for more than half way up the sight glass. That way if some is hidden you still won't be overfull.