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P.S. The BMW allen head tool is a tighter fit that even a Craftsman. This is one area where good tools are critical, as has been discovered.
Old 07-07-2012, 11:50 AM
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Yep. Trying to install Lennie's sprockets. Originally used too long a hex wrench and messed up the hole a bit. Then cut off a piece of hex and used a 3/8" drive unsuccessfully. Last try was the hex w/an electric impact wrench--results as shown above.

I have two replacement bolts in hand but have not decided whether to proceed and possibly make the bike unrideable or simply eat the cost of the sprokets.

IF I decide to proceed, I think I'll try one of these first. If that fails, then I'll try one of the external "easy offs" that Nail24 suggested. Then . . .

BTW, living in Hawaii means there is no winter, non-riding project time.
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Last edited by Phil Y; 07-07-2012 at 12:21 PM..
Old 07-07-2012, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by phoenixtexoma View Post
P.S. The BMW allen head tool is a tighter fit that even a Craftsman. This is one area where good tools are critical, as has been discovered.
By any chance do you have the part number for the BMW tool? I can't find a mention of it in the shop manual. Thanks!
Old 07-07-2012, 02:02 PM
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I'll try to find the number for you, I do know it's a TRW Wendt-Sonis, 6mm allen head, I believe. With shipping, I recall that it was about $45. Ridiculous. Personally, I'd feel comfortable with either the (real) Craftsman or Snap-On
Old 07-07-2012, 02:59 PM
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Whoops, it's a 10mm, not a 6mm.
Old 07-07-2012, 03:07 PM
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Have used the external ones at the shop many times to remove rusted out, rounded off fasteners. They work very well...



Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Y View Post
Yep. Trying to install Lennie's sprockets. Originally used too long a hex wrench and messed up the hole a bit. Then cut off a piece of hex and used a 3/8" drive unsuccessfully. Last try was the hex w/an electric impact wrench--results as shown above.

I have two replacement bolts in hand but have not decided whether to proceed and possibly make the bike unrideable or simply eat the cost of the sprokets.

IF I decide to proceed, I think I'll try one of these first. If that fails, then I'll try one of the external "easy offs" that Nail24 suggested. Then . . .

BTW, living in Hawaii means there is no winter, non-riding project time.
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Old 07-07-2012, 03:47 PM
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I have had great success removing stripped internal hex fasteners by oing as others suggested, find a torx bit that is larger, some creative grinding to make the teeth a chisel point on the leading edge would help.

Usually I drive the torx in, but in case of the cams I don't think that would be advisable. Best advice I have seen is button it up and be happy with stock. Disappointing yes, but a ton cheaper than a major repair should a bad situation go worse.
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:12 PM
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Glad I wasn't the first to suggest bashing with a hammer. If the JB weld trick fails, then bashing in a tapered hex key, I'd next bash with a cold chisel to try and drive the HSHCS anti-clockwise.

Last resort? spot weld a hex key in place. But that's me...
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:20 PM
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I have mig welded a nut that fits over the head of the bolt with good results. then use regular socket that fits the nut.
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Old 07-07-2012, 04:35 PM
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One of the key pieces of information to take away from this thread is the importance of using the proper fitting tool when working on these boxers. If it doesn't fit you must quit. Didn't I hear a phrase similar to that a number of years back in a LA courtroom.
Old 07-07-2012, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by PFFOG View Post
Best advice I have seen is button it up and be happy with stock. Disappointing yes, but a ton cheaper than a major repair should a bad situation go worse.
Richard, at this point this is my first choice! Least painful and fraught with no pitfalls other than the normal oilhead quirks!
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Old 07-07-2012, 05:45 PM
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If you got a set of Lennies seconds, you can probably fine a buyer for them now that he sold out.
Old 07-07-2012, 05:50 PM
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I'll try to find the number for you, I do know it's a TRW Wendt-Sonis, 6mm allen head, I believe. With shipping, I recall that it was about $45.
Yikes. Thanks for that info. I think I'll make do with my Craftsman set, in that case.
Old 07-07-2012, 08:11 PM
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+1 for the welding a nut to the bolt head, might use a TIG as less chance of spatter etc. If the bolt head is 14mm then get a 14mm nut to fit over the head and weld it all around the bolt head as I think that you will only get one chance.

Thanx
Dave
Old 07-08-2012, 12:46 AM
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Use the external. No hassle. I put the same size bolt in my 8" vise and clamped the bolt down as tight as possible. My set is Blue-Point { snap-on}. The 17mm external works great even on the smooth outer suface. Your going to replace the bolts anyway. tjs
Old 07-08-2012, 04:25 AM
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Seeing that you got the Snap-On extractor, use a 30"-36" long quality extension bar. When using with the wheel locked, slowly bounce it a little harder each time each direction. Don't just push suddenly and steadily. If it works, and it should, Lennie's sprockets will be WELL WORTH the effort -- you'll have a different bike on your hands, one you'll love. Good luck.
Old 07-08-2012, 06:37 AM
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P.S. My bad, with an extractor, bounce in only one direction to break loose. Was thinking of an ordinary allen head.
Old 07-08-2012, 07:12 AM
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So Phil, got it loose yet or decide to close it up & consider as is ok?
Old 07-09-2012, 06:38 AM
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I just received my Lennie's seconds sprockets in the mail about a week ago. Had not really even considered this modification potentially going bad.

Does anyone have that P/N for the preferred BMW tool that should be used to remove the cam sprocket bolt?

If it is not necessary to spend the $45 for one 10 mm driver bit I would obviously prefer not to. I would definitely buy a Snap-on or some other quality brand before attempting the install.

Phil - I am curious as well, did you continue with the buggered bolt extraction or abort the sprocket swap?
Old 07-09-2012, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpolito99 View Post
I just received my Lennie's seconds sprockets in the mail about a week ago. Had not really even considered this modification potentially going bad.

Does anyone have that P/N for the preferred BMW tool that should be used to remove the cam sprocket bolt?

If it is not necessary to spend the $45 for one 10 mm driver bit I would obviously prefer not to. I would definitely buy a Snap-on or some other quality brand before attempting the install.

Phil - I am curious as well, did you continue with the buggered bolt extraction or abort the sprocket swap?
Mine both came out with zero drama. Just use a good tight-fitting hex socket and don't fret. Phil was a little unlucky.

N.
Old 07-09-2012, 07:14 AM
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