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No try, do or not do
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROXTR View Post
I think once I purchase a PCIII I'll be even happier. 12.5:1 pistons could be my winter project .
Purchase and R12S and you'll be ecstatic!
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:34 PM
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Mine (2004 R11S) is also Torx, T50.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Lee View Post
Yes, mine is torx.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Y View Post
ROXTR, can you give us an assessment of the sprockets. Worth the effort??
it's like a new bike.
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Old 07-31-2012, 05:14 PM
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OK, success! Got the bolt out! Busted nut remover and Dremel. Lots of work. Other side came out easily. Go figure.

Now, I think the chain slipped one link on the crank side. I can't turn the engine over by hand. How do I check to insure the valve timing's right?? At TDC, arrows on the sprockets on both sides are horizontal.

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Phil Y, Kapolei, HI
04 BCR (not quite stock), 06 Buell Blast (grandson's first bike)
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:09 PM
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Whatever you do, don't force it. I may have bent a valve on mine while turning the engine over before realizing the sprocket divet had slipped out of the cam recess slit. I am having it towed to a pro tomorrow. This is becoming a $$ nightmare.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:13 PM
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Make sure you keep tension on the chain while you try to rotate the crank or it will just wrap around at the sprocket on the jack shaft. Check out my third hand tool.
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:32 PM
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Whoa, if you start moving the pistons you are in danger of bending a valve!!! If you are in doubt back off on the valves so that they remain closd until you are positive that they are in proper sync with the pistons!!!!!
Old 08-01-2012, 05:07 AM
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did you remove the tool you used to lock the engine? dont remove bolt on other cyl until after finishing the sprocket replacement on the first cyl. you have to rotate engine to bring the other cyl to tdc
Old 08-01-2012, 05:50 AM
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Bill, the way this report reads, I think he did them both without repositioning the second piston to TDC. I hope I'm reading it wrong; but, if I didn't he'd better release the valves to the closed position prior to rotating anything.
Old 08-01-2012, 05:59 AM
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Question PLEASE Limit Failure

Greetings Phil,

Wow you have been through a lot on this sprocket installation.

------

Failure Prevention is in order now!

I see that you have cam timing concerns but I am concerned about the hard metal filings in your engine.

This is hardened steel that you have filed off the bolt and you do not want this matter floating in your engine causing a serious failure. The picture reveals a lot of filing.

I would address this first.

If you have already made a dam to prevent the above <> boo yeah! Move on to your next step.

If not you must make this your first priority to clean/flush the engine before you turn the engine...

I sincerely wish you a long term positive outcome.
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Old 08-01-2012, 07:35 AM
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Robert,

Thanks for your concerns. I did create a "dam" of a rag soaked in WD40 and flushed out the area with about two quarts of clean oil (w/the drain plug removed). Anything else you can think of before I proceed?

Now trying to insure the valve timing is set correctly. I was originally able to turn the engine over by hand but when I cranked it, not-so-great-noise. Undid everything and was NOT able to turn engine completely over by hand. I then discovered that right side sprocket was not correctly aligned which led to a dimple on the large washer. Search revealed that I'm not the first one to encounter this issue. Using post #101 on this thread, I set the timing correctly. That was late yesterday.

Plan is to double-check everything, hopefully later today, then try again. Hopefully, nothing's bent!
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"There are old riders, and there are bold riders, but there are NO old, bold riders!" -My first MSF instructor, too many years ago
Old 08-01-2012, 09:59 AM
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Thumbs up Filter It

Greetings Phil,

Regarding the sprocket that was not seated into the cam correctly after you spun the engine:

I would not worry about a bent valve unless you spun the engine hard and forced it past the piston contact point.

Once you are done you can hear the valves close through the spark plug holes. You can observe the valve clearance, you can do a compression test.

------

I would flush once more with some kerosene and use a Mr. Coffee type of filter to see if any metal filings are revealed.

Once you are done with the installation I would run the engine and do a quick oil change and inspect the oil.

Precautionary but necessary as you do not want a failure.

------

Then you will sleep well!
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Robert Foster

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RapidBike USA
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Robert@FosterRAD.com
718-468-4680

Do not go where the path may lead, go instead where there is no path and leave a trail.
Old 08-01-2012, 11:24 AM
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once you get it sorted out, make sure you put it in 6th with the sparkplugs out and rotate the back wheel through a number of revolutions to make sure there is no valve clearance issues.

you have certainly gone through a lot to detune that motor which IMHO could use more power not less.

good luck!
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Old 08-01-2012, 12:27 PM
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Yep, it's been an adventure that I don't want to go through again! Assuming this will work like many have said, I think it suits my riding style--certainly much more than yours: no track here and can't ride for more than about 1.5 hours without ending up where I started!

Amazed at your builds! Thanks for sharing!!
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04 BCR (not quite stock), 06 Buell Blast (grandson's first bike)
"There are old riders, and there are bold riders, but there are NO old, bold riders!" -My first MSF instructor, too many years ago
Old 08-01-2012, 01:03 PM
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Hehe, you don't need top end in the islands. You'll run into the ocean and the bike is NO surfboard.
Old 08-01-2012, 01:44 PM
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Phil,

Something that isin the new instructions and what I emphaisise via the email to confirm postage is to do one side at a time.

Always instll the cam chain tensioner before any movement of the engine.

If you follw my instructions via the email to you then you will be able to check and get it right.

What is the latest as it must have been late there when I replied to the last email yesterday?
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Old 08-01-2012, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nail24 View Post
Bill, the way this report reads, I think he did them both without repositioning the second piston to TDC. I hope I'm reading it wrong; but, if I didn't he'd better release the valves to the closed position prior to rotating anything.
Do you have any clue as to how this works???
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signit98 View Post
Do you have any clue as to how this works???
As a matter of fact, I do. Give it a rest, ralf. I could ask the same of you for asking such a dumbass question.
Old 08-01-2012, 05:27 PM
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BAD News

I finally got the valve timing correct using the procedure in post #101 in this thread. Before I started, I had cranked out all the valve adusters but when I went to readjust them, this is what I found on the right side exhasut valve. Note that the adjuster is in full down position. This is going to get very expensive. Now, I'm wishing I never attempted this in the first place. Mama's not going to be happy!!

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Phil Y, Kapolei, HI
04 BCR (not quite stock), 06 Buell Blast (grandson's first bike)
"There are old riders, and there are bold riders, but there are NO old, bold riders!" -My first MSF instructor, too many years ago
Old 08-01-2012, 05:46 PM
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I'm expecting the worst with mine too. But if I bent a valve, as long as the headers have to come off, I'm having my guy cut into and hollow out my cat while it's all off. Bike was towed to the local pro today.
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:05 PM
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:05 PM
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