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Joe Joe is offline
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Question Muffler Repacking.....??

Has anybody repacked their mufflers and had success? I have the TBR cans and repacked them with their kit and it didn't seem any quieter after. Maybe I'm doing something wrong should the packing material be wound tight as possible? Would it be better to not try and cram in as much packing as possible? Anybody know of better material (not sure what it is..... white almost cotton looking) my stereo won't go any
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Old 05-21-2002, 08:34 AM
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roger albert's Avatar
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Hi Joe,

I've done it on my duc. One step short of "as much as you can cram in" seems to be the quietest _and_ last the longest. Most of the packing materials I've seen are simply fiberglass (cheap, plentiful, and a high melting point) Every can seems to respond differently, so, if you're lucky, someone else here has already figured out the tbr optimum.

good luck
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Old 05-21-2002, 11:19 AM
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I've never repacked a street bike muffler, but have done it on my 2S dirt bike a few times. As Roger said, I think you want it to fill the space, but not crammed so tight that there is no air space between the fibers.

At least with dirt bikes, Home Depot type fiberglass insulation is used, but lots of folks say that it blows out super fast because it can't take the heat. I use Moose insulation designed specifically for muffler repacking.

I'm fine with sound of the stock S (in my book you can't have it too quiet on a distance bike) so I haven't had to deal with this issue. I do run a slip-on on my R6 and it seems slightly louder than when I first got it, so I'll probably have to look into repacking this thing soon.

- Mark
Old 05-21-2002, 11:33 AM
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The best packing material is stainless steel wool. I don't know of a source where you can buy it. Some aftermarket automotive mufflers use a stainless steel wool sleeve to cover the perfurated tube then wrap it with fiberglass. The stainless steel fibers can take the heat without deteriorating and it keeps the fiberglass from being blown out of the holes.
Old 05-21-2002, 07:15 PM
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