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new rear brake pads, disc heat..

I just changed out my rear brake pads, the wheel spins freely enough but does have light intermittent contact with the pads. I notice the disk gets pretty warm, does not discolor but I wouldn't want to touch it.

I'm thinking I just ride this out and it will be good.

Any observations?
Old 08-13-2012, 11:46 AM
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consider removing a small amount of fluid from the reservoir,
also check that the lever is fully returning,
if you have rubber lines then the whole set of lines should be replaced ,
get the Speigler lines the are the best.
The brakes shouldnt be dragging and it sounds like they are either too much fluid in the system or the lever isnt returning to full release OR the rubber lines are disintegrating
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Old 08-13-2012, 07:45 PM
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I'll try the fluid removal first. They have just a light scuffing when you roll the wheel.

The new pads were way thicker than what came out but everything went together well. New lines sound good, I had the SS lines on my BCR.
Old 08-14-2012, 03:56 AM
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Fluid removal isn't going to help. It's not like the fluid is some kind of spring and you are shortening it by removing some. It's a pump with a return circuit to the master, and that extra space with the rubber bit in the master is much more than needed to accommodate return fluid. A bit of brake drag is perfectly normal, could be caused by a little bit of runout in the wheel or disk or both, but more likely it's just crufty calipers. If it's excessive or really bugs you you can fix it though.

Your brakes can work perfectly well and have a surprising amount of cruft behind the dust seals - that will prevent the pistons from returning into the caliper bore as far or as easily as they would if they were perfectly clean. You can do a quickie job on that by removing the calipers from the disk, remove the pads, remove the dust seals and carefully clean out the crud that's behind them. If you're brave, carefully pump the rear brake pedal to push more of the pistons out to make sure you get it all. Don't scratch the pistons! Put a piece of wood on the piston crowns and use a c-clamp to slowly and carefully push the pistons back into the bores, and look out that you don't overflow your master when you do this. Removing the lid and taking some fluid out with a turkey baster is a good idea. Clean up the brake pads and the sliding surfaces that they travel on, clean the pad surface with brake cleaner and lap them on some 80-grit on a plate of glass to make them flat and fresh. Once everything is back together and torqued, spin the wheel and apply the brake a few times to center the pads on the rotor. This is a good time to also flush and bleed the brakes, replacing all the old fluid too.

If you're lucky and there's no runout of your wheel and rotor, that should fix your brake drag.

N.
Old 08-14-2012, 06:14 AM
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If fluid has been added to adjust the level to compensate for brake wear (the piston is not occupying the same space with worn pads) then when new pads are installed and the piston is pushed back, the master cylinder reservoir will not have space for that fluid that may have been added. Merlin was offering things to check... And checking for and removing fluid from an overfilled reservoir is a good thing to do.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Noblehops View Post
Fluid removal isn't going to help.

N.
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Old 08-14-2012, 07:14 AM
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Well guys, all good advice, the culprit showed it's face a minute ago. When I pumped the rear pedal by hand (after cleaning and checking the caliper pistons et al.) the rear brake line blew up like a balloon..didn't burst but will blow up to twice it's size with just hand pressure. Something tells me this isn't a design feature.

After it blew up like that the brakes started working normally so something in the line must have been locking the fluid pressure in. No riding for me this week end..new SS lines will go on order in a minute..front and rear.


Last edited by bykemike; 08-14-2012 at 07:27 PM..
Old 08-14-2012, 05:15 PM
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Great discovery!
Definitive cause & effect.


It reminds me of the squirrel under my hood...
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Time Marches On: 2010 F800GS, 2007 R1200S, 2003 Dakar, Buell 1125r, 2001 F650GS. 1999 F650. 1998 HD Sportster Sport. ALL GONE
Old 08-14-2012, 05:20 PM
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Glad you found your issue ,
order the Speigler lines they are tops,
consider using BMW fluid from a sealed container,
and bleeding the ABS units a few times so to remove more crud and air.

When its all said and done,
the rear rotor should be cool to the touch after riding a few miles and not using the brakes, use the engine and trans to slow down to a stop so you can check the rotor temps
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Old 08-14-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bykemike View Post
Well guys, all good advice, the culprit showed it's face a minute ago. When I pumped the rear pedal by hand (after cleaning and checking the caliper pistons et al.) the rear brake line blew up like a balloon..didn't burst but will blow up to twice it's size with just hand pressure. Something tells me this isn't a design feature.

After it blew up like that the brakes started working normally so something in the line must have been locking the fluid pressure in. No riding for me this week end..new SS lines will go on order in a minute..front and rear.

WOW!

That's a clear case for preemptively changing our 10 year old brake lines right there. glad you found that, that is freaky for sure.

N.
Old 08-14-2012, 08:08 PM
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+1 My Dakar did that too. Looks Like I will be replacing the rear line on my S soon. (already have SS up front).
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Old 08-15-2012, 06:07 AM
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That looks just like mine did too, sitting at a light I could feel the pedal sinking. Looked back but couldn't see any leaking so rode it home & replaced it with a spare line I had. Don't use the rear much so it could of been that way for awhile. After I removed the ABS I actually had a rear brake you could feel work, amazing.
Old 08-15-2012, 07:20 AM
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Installed a complete set of Speigler lines today. Not cheap, about 275.00 and a 4 hour job and while it was apart..etc, all the things you can do w/the plastic off.

Raining a bit much now but a ride on Sunday is in order..thanks for the help one and all.

Mike
Old 08-17-2012, 12:26 PM
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Good.stuff, I've been wondering about my brake feel, will order new lines tomorrow!
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Old 08-17-2012, 08:58 PM
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I will be getting a set soon as well. Is Spiegler the best source for ordering? I thought that one of the members here was distributing the kits, but not sure.
Old 08-17-2012, 09:44 PM
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The thing I liked about Speigler is I got to chat with the shop guy and check that I was getting all that I needed. My 01 is actually an 00 build and has different calipers than the "newer" 01's..turned out it didn't make a difference.

I do a lot of ordering on line but it is nice to talk with the man when you can.
Old 08-18-2012, 04:42 AM
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"Well guys, all good advice, the culprit showed it's face a minute ago."

Well, I said it , but it wasn't quite correct. All the lines replaced (and they needed it) but the rear brake was still dragging on the test ride...went right back to the shop and discovered the front sliding pin on the caliper was frozen and, on close inspection, quite corroded. I WD'ed the pin, put a little moly on it and it is working but, unless the sliding pins are available I am going to need another caliper and a set of sealing boots .

I found a couple on eBay, but they look pretty beat. The Boneyard has one but I want to be certain it is the same unit.

At least it is good to ride for the next few days.

Mike
Old 08-18-2012, 07:14 PM
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Good food for thought when replacing the brake pads. Service the entire caliper. Don't just push the piston back in and think all is well.
Old 08-19-2012, 05:55 AM
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I always sand the crud off the pins & wipe a very thin coat of grease on them before putting them back in. Also I use brake cleaner on the seal area to blow out as much crud as possible but don't generally remove the seal. Never had any dragging problems so far.
Old 08-19-2012, 07:13 AM
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:13 AM
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