Anybody recognize this R1100S ABS control block?
 

I've been following the front brake bleed proceedure as outlined in the BMW manual, which I bought online for my 2004 US model R1100S (manual for 1999-2005) and I've gotten a whack of air into the system (my fault as I was using a hand vacuum pump for the first time and got it wrong.) So far I cannot get all the air back out. Was trying to do a complete fluid change got air in the lines and then got air in the ABS block trying to bleed there again with the vacuum pump. Part of my now figuring out the problem is that the ABS control block under my gas tank doesn't look anything like the one listed in the manual or the ones I've seen on other forum pages. I've included an image of my ABS block and I'm hoping someone could give me any information on its component parts, etc as shown and how I can make sure it is completely bled of air. I know the front brake components are the row of components along the bottom half of the block as shown below.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1353811328.jpg

I've been trying for the better part of a week to bleed the front brakes from the caliper bleed nipples using both the plastic tube in a bottle with fluid method and also via the hand vacuum pump (like a cheap Mityvac) and tube method. I've even used teflon tape on the bleed nipple threads to help seal them making sure not to cover up the bleed holes. No luck. I've succeeded in getting new fluid from the brake lever reservoir to the ABS block and bled from the angled nipple at the base of the small black tower for the front brakes shown on this block. But so far I cannot get fluid pushed out the caliper bleed screw. I can get lots of bubbles, but the level in the reservoir doesn't drop, I don't get a steady flow of fluid from the caliper nipple and I'm getting no brake pressure. I've tried bleeding from both front calipers. I've tried turning bars to the left and zip-tying the brake lever closed overnight, which I understand helps the air gravitate to one end. I've tried squeezing the hand lever, opening the caliper nipple, closing the caliper nipple and then releasing the brake lever -- for over an hour and a half. No luck. At my wits end I'm afraid. Fluid just does not seem to want to go past the ABS block and down the brake lines.

Today I finally bought some parts and made a pressurizing bottle and pushed fluid up from the left caliper nipple to the joint, where the steel ABS block outlet line meets the rubber down tube to the two calipers, which I temporarily loosened to do the hose fill. So I've now got solid fluid from the calipers to that fitting. I also loosened the fitting at the other end of that steel fitting where it connects to the ABS block and used the hand lever to make sure I was getting fluid as far as that fitting. I do, although maybe there is still air somewhere in the ABS block -- don't know. I'm pretty sure that I still have solid air for the full length of that steel line though.

Where do I go from here please? Temperature is down to freezing here in my driveway and I don't want to have to start the whole proceedure over again from square one.

Have you added any fluid to the ABS reservoirs, or were you just adding fluid to the master cylinder? ( black caps with allen socket and hoses attached on the right hand side of your photo are the lids you remove to fill the reservoirs) BTW do not overfill.

No I haven't. Many thanks. I'll check this out within the hour. I had no idea what was inside anything on the ABS block and I didn't want to risk messing anything up by fooling around there. Didn't know if the allen socket or the slot on the other two towers were access points or adjustment points. I'll get back to you soon.

By the way now that I look at my photo again, I assume from your overfilling caveat that the rubber hoses coming from the cap area are overfill draining hoses like on a rad overflow. I thought these were probably vacuum lines for some sort of brake assist system coming from the intake.

To expand on what Bill said, the fluid in the lever reservoir, is NOT the fluid that is in the caliper circuit. The reservoir for the caliper circuit is in the ABS unit, and has to be bleed completely independent of the lever (activation) circuit.

Thank you so much gents!! I have brakes and the bike is going back together minus the side covers so that I can drop it off and pull the battery for winter storage. It took relatively no time at all to get braking back once I knew about the ABS reservoir. So pleased! Before I put it back on the road in the spring, I'll do a complete fluid change on both the ABS unit and the front caliper system. I'll also do the rear brakes and clutch. Planning on installing Speedbleeders at that time. Three quick questions further if I might: 1. How do I drain the ABS block of fluid? For instance can I use my hand vacuum pump and tubing to suck all of the fluid out of the reservoir or is there an easier way? 2. As I mentioned in my original post this ABS block doesn't look like the one in the shop manual I bought online. Is this block the stock item for a 2004 R1100S? And 3. Any idea what the bleed nipple sizes or designations are on the ABS block? The Speedbleeder website doesn't list any ABS bleeders for a 2004 R1100S at all. I'd like to change all 10 bleed nipples if possible. Many thanks again.

Don't need speed bleeders IMHO.

Your hand vac can be used to bleed/flush the lever circuit, then the system is used to push fresh fluid through the caliper circuit.

You can make your own fullel/filler by taking a trip to Home depot and getting a rubber stopper and funnel for about $3

Here is a popular set of instructions with pics: http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf

Thanks again PFFOG. Maybe I'll forego the Speedbleeders. Lots of great advice on this forum!