I did check the spring weight before I sent them. What makes you say that from my post?

I was just adding it to your post. If he will have them rebuilt the springs should be checked. When I had mine rebuilt when I got them used they didn't ask. I think they assumed I must of had them from new and built to my specs. I brought it up with them to make sure they were OK.

That is all.

Got ya, they asked me mostly because my hydraulic preload crapped & they said it happened more often with heavier springs which I have in the rear.

As mentioned, Roger Albert, the moderator here rebuilds suspension, send him a PM, he is in Austin.

Ha.. He is usually at a Mexican bar or a restaurant these days... and at the track on weekends.

Getting ready to start cleaning the bike. I know you've all seen this before but I'm just giddy right now.

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...psa4146dbc.jpg

Pull the clutch slave and see if it is showing signs of leakage.

molotov cocktail?

I've also got a salvaged R1100S
 

Bought it from the dealer about 7 years ago a 1999. I was told it tipped over in a garage but didn't know it was salvage until Dan at Barrington Cycle Werkes told me. BTW, BMW has a policy against that now. Anyway, I've put about 7-8k on the bike with no problems, so don't despair.

One tip I will give you is that on the left side of the bike there is a crush nut that goes into the frame and a bolt that screws into it that fits through a rubber isolator. That bolt holds the tank down and to replace the battery it's one you have to take out. In fact, I think it has to come out for the air filter change if I remember right. It's almost impossible, on mine anyway, to thread the bolt in straight through the rubber isolator when the isolator is in the metal holding ring that's part of the tank. The trick is to take the rubber out of the ring, thread the bolt in straight and then position the tank so that the rubber is in the metal ring. Then tighten the bolt.

Not much keeps the crush nut in the frame from turning and if you even start the thread wrong trying to feel for it, the crush nut becomes un-anchored and you will have to drill it out an put another in. I know. :) Now like I say this could be a production variance on my bike and not true on all of them.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks.

We call those "Riv-nuts", they're common hardware on airplanes.

I'm an airplane mechanic.

Any Bmw dealer can run your vin and let you know your bikes build data.

If you're an aircraft mechanic,
 

you're probably the best or one of the best mechanics on the board. Still every piece of machinery has its peculiarities and tricks. I posted because it looks like you had the tank propped up in the pic with the bolt out and while I'm not ham handed, it happened to me.

I'm 59 and the proper name wouldn't come to me but riv-nut is it. It's a sorry ass way to do things in my opinion. I've put a bolt in with anti vibration compound on it (the way BMW sends the bolts from factory) and then had the riv-nut come loose when taking them out. On the other hand everyone should use torx bolts like BMW.

It's called loc-tite usually, just keeps them from loosening. Never heard it refered to as anti vibration compound before. Repeat after me...riv-nuts, loc-tite. :D
You do have to jiggle the tank around a bit to get the bolts lined up but not too much. I don't know that I would loc-tite those screws as it is in a riv-nut & over torqueing it when removing could loosen them, then you're in for some fun.

you do not loc-tite the tank fasteners
you do want all of the rubber spacers large flat washers and the correct
screws for the mounting.

There is a difference between loctite and anti vibration compound. The BMW bolts that I had trouble with came with anti-vibration compound on them according to the dealer.

Repeat after me an-ti-vi-bra-shun-com-pownd. ;)

PS. I never loctited the tank fastener. It was another bolt I had trouble with, one that mounted the bag mounts on the 12S. That bolt came from the factory with anti-vibration compound on it. The bolt came about half way out before the riv-nut let go. So it obviously was not loose from over torquing.

Lol. Just what I thought.

The tank was empty, I just wanted to keep dookie out of it. I had been using my compressor, a brush, and a blow gun to clean parts of the bike that I didn't want to use water on.

And as far as being a great mechanic, I dont know, I do all right I guess. I am blown away by the content of some of these threads. You guys do some serious troubleshooting. I imagine it's a requirement on a computerized bike. I read one thread where a guy was going to hook something up to an oscilloscope just for the hell of it. My hat's off to you guys.

er umm well, I have drug out my scope on my triumph, and a honda f4i, but the bmw
r11xx family computers don't seem to fail or give problems. they are more about tuning.
and the triumph was getting water in the fuel tank, the f4i had a vacuum hose on the wrong
place. I vastly prefer the computer to carbs and points.

Brentw, In no way did I mean my last post as an insult. Honestly. There are clearly some really, really smart guys around here. My dad was an engineer. A lot of these posts remind me of him.